Can you help to identify these frames, bikes or parts?

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  • Hi,
    does anyone know which framebuilder may have built this f + f?
    the only framenumber i can find on it is '55' on the bottombracket shell and on the dropouts. its got heartshaped lug cutouts and has decals from what i assume was the club it was ridden/built for 'Camelot'. Any help much appreciated, cheers

  • Who can say frame model and its year?







  • Hi,

    I'm not sure if I will manage to up load these photos, but I'll give it a go...

    Can anyone give a rough age and model of the bike attached. It's a Dawes which is my first ever bike project..

    Will


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  • Another pic


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  • And another


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  • Hi I was wondering if anyone could help me work out who/where my frame was made.

    It has a frame number on the bottom bracket of m2k49758

    Ive done a bit of research to try and find out but haven't found anything, does anyone recognise this type of number?

    Thanks

  • bin the dawes and buy a bike.

  • who can help?
    italian

  • Is that all you've got to go on??
    Does look quite italian though! I had a moser with similar bridge

  • here., triggered my memory but need a refresh...
    the forks are defo not original.
    was there not somebody from on here who bought a frame with same bridge for next to nothing? it had a panto saying 50 anni of campagnolo or something like that....
    I also remember there was something unusual about the paintjob of that frame..

    thanks for looking Rik, was hoping you would check it

  • ^ You'd be better able than me to rule out the possibility of a Japanese/Korean builder....
    Without knowing the seatpost diameter, frame serial and BB threading, gut feel is italian - Olmo would be my wild stab in the dark.

    Prominent features (ignoring fork crown) are brake bridge, track ends, seat lug & BB.
    Track ends look Campag/Gipiemme which initially suggests a italian or UK builder but doesn't really rule anything in or out... BB shell looks pretty high end (slotted BB shells are not unkown on italian frames but more common here in the UK) . Brake bridge certainly looks Italian and so does the seat lug.

    Here are a couple of moser & olmo frame features to show the sort of thing I'm talking about....
    Really though you'd want to know whether or not the BB was italian or BSA threaded and whether the tubing was metric 28.0 or imperial 28.6mm OD to narrow down any further.

    http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/files/olmo_3_202.jpg
    http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTp8Xt8-GPD6yhdOjnLrOG7V9SvlJNHwLaZfetaxrJUdvvt5wShTA https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSI2r2_pfh9EYP_BVqTwJjztMut6ataYXa5y2QrfTWxSUaL0t_C

  • who can help?
    italian

    i've been trying to identify my frameset with very similar details, ive been tld its a pinarello... hope that helps

    http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/georgemeadows1/library/

  • Pinarello pista is a very good shout...
    Close match on both the bridge and seatclamp (bridge is slightly different and I've never ) but I've never seen one without pantographing on the seatstay... could just be an old version, but if you go to far back in the past they have normal tubular rear bridges. I've seen milled out BB shells on Pinarellos of that period too.


  • What is this frame? Found it on HHSB long time ago

  • rossin`s have similar bridge

  • here.,

    rossin`s have similar bridge

  • rossin`s have similar bridge

    As does my terry Dolan cougar

  • Cross posted from the Tandem thread if anyone can help....?

    Anyone shed any light on this?

    http://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/co...ono/1027644685

    Google brings up little on Cougar Tandems (unless it's a Terry Dolan but I doubt it!). I'm guessing it's a bit of a BSO but don't know if it's worth it anyway as I've been after one for a while.

  • Cross posted from the Tandem thread if anyone can help....?

    Anyone shed any light on this?

    http://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/co...ono/1027644685

    Google brings up little on Cougar Tandems (unless it's a Terry Dolan but I doubt it!). I'm guessing it's a bit of a BSO but don't know if it's worth it anyway as I've been after one for a while.

    They are Cougar (Terry Dolan) transfers, but I'd doubt if Terry ever built a frame like the picture. You could e-mail him at Dolan cycles to check.

  • i got this frame for cheap, the paintjob is terrible but it's going to get repainted and built up with a modern kit, i'm just wondering if anyone knows who made it, it has a cinelli BB shell and campagnolo dropouts, i think it's made with decent tubing but not sure what, it's not slx because can't feel a spiral at the bb/seattube

    the thing that i noticed and is likely to get someone to recognize it (correct me if i'm wrong) is the third cable guide on the toptube, it's bigger then the others

    i'm pretty sure it's not British but could be wrong about this

    also if anyone has any ideas on what kind of forks to get for it, i was thinking some normal columbus forks...


    http://imageshack.us/a/img163/2042/j19y.jpg
    http://imageshack.us/a/img690/3193/8wfa.jpg
    http://imageshack.us/a/img837/448/d78w.jpg
    http://imageshack.us/a/img545/7735/hk78.jpg
    http://imageshack.us/a/img41/4968/sxa9.jpg
    http://imageshack.us/a/img94/3451/obda.jpg
    http://imageshack.us/a/img826/20/3khs.jpg

  • Anything stamped on the dropouts? What internal dia is the seat tube? English or Italian BB? Racing number braze on + external brake routing makes me think pre-90s

  • Looks like an early 80s team ordered frame. BB threads will tell you more about its' origin.
    Looks like SL, if its under 1800g be happy about and don't waste your time.
    If you are lucky there will be a columbus dove light stamp on the TT near HT
    (if you don't sandblast it)
    A lugged fork with 2" longer steerer than your HT will be nice and period correct.
    In my opinion you should search for a flat lug that look like an arc as shown below.
    http://www.fiataccompli.com/bike/photos/fork.jpg

    It hasn't any drilled holes at BB or stays so if you want it last longer make
    your own. A big one at the center of BB and the smallest that you can under the
    chain stays (1" from BB) and inside the seat stays (1" above dropouts).
    Its' bottle cage braze ons are too low on DT. If you need them higher
    its the right time to change them.

    The seatpost diameter will tell you more about its age. Measure it carefully in multiple
    axis and bring the seatpost lug in perfect condition before the paint...

  • Anything stamped on the dropouts? What internal dia is the seat tube? English or Italian BB? Racing number braze on + external brake routing makes me think pre-90s

    dropouts have campagnolo stamped on them

    internal seatpost dia varies between 26.88 and 27.4 depending on where i measure them, have no seatposts to try so not sure about that

    it has an italian BB

    Looks like an early 80s team ordered frame. BB threads will tell you more about its' origin.
    Looks like SL, if its under 1800g be happy about and don't waste your time.
    If you are lucky there will be a columbus dove light stamp on the TT near HT
    (if you don't sandblast it)
    A lugged fork with 2" longer steerer than your HT will be nice and period correct.
    In my opinion you should search for a flat lug that look like an arc as shown below.
    http://www.fiataccompli.com/bike/photos/fork.jpg

    It hasn't any drilled holes at BB or stays so if you want it last longer make
    your own. A big one at the center of BB and the smallest that you can under the
    chain stays (1" from BB) and inside the seat stays (1" above dropouts).
    Its' bottle cage braze ons are too low on DT. If you need them higher
    its the right time to change them.

    The seatpost diameter will tell you more about its age. Measure it carefully in multiple
    axis and bring the seatpost lug in perfect condition before the paint...

    the weight is 2 - 2.1kg for the frame, size is 56CT 55CC
    about the columbus stamp, the paint is on the frame about 0.5mm thick, it looks like it has been painted with a brush :-/, hard to see anything on it

    i'm not too fussed about period correctness, as long as it looks nice, it's gonna get a modern groupset so yea, paintjob is gonna be anything but a retro look, but thanks for the link, will consider something like that when i start the build

    about the holes, do you have any examples with pictures and why should i drill holes?

    what's the best way to get the seattube in perfect condition?

    thx for the help both, any more info i welcome!

  • Over 2kg for a 55 frame it's definitely not an SL as far as i know.
    You don't have to feel disappointed about it's weight, you will gain
    more stiffness. Many beautiful bikes are close to 2kg.

    As concern the fork, just avoid to have one with its' blades been more
    aero than 1.5cm (~1/2" ). Of course you can always have a pricey and light
    columbus minimal 1" since you will built it with modern parts but you should
    know that is a "race" fork and some people find its' feedback rough
    depending on wheel-tyre characteristics.

    Every bicycle that makes us happy, collect water or moisture through seatpost
    or bb cups at wet conditions. Steel bikes should always have drainers to avoid
    corrosion from trapped moisture at lower ends.

    you will easily notice those that i propose for stays on plain steel bikes
    that need them most. Drainers are a "detail" or an "extra" feature that usually
    be absent on "team" ordered bikes cause they are cheaper priced and no one
    believes that will last more than 4-5 years to protect them.

    You should measure seatpost lug on two basic axis.
    First measure the longitudinal that changes more difficult and it's more
    accurate. Then measure the transversal that commonly changes if you had
    a smaller seat post than you need.

    for example; if you measure 26.88 the transversal axis will likely need to open
    both sides (or the one that bends more) to gain 27.2 like the longitudinal
    and the cutting faces should be parallel.
    In that case you need a 27.2 seatpost that will insert tightly in lug.

    You can refresh - clear ST using a half of a sanding sponge (n80)
    from a hardware shop along with a piece of hard cable.

    please excuse my english :)

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Can you help to identify these frames, bikes or parts?

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