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• #9102
also i really like my pomp, it's just at low speeds it's real easy to jack knife. couldn't you ask lefty will for the geo of his custom build?
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• #9103
...it's just at low speeds it's real easy to jack knife...
I've found this much less of a problem since switching to a 26" front wheel. -
• #9104
It's all about shorter headtubes for rigidity, plus your lever misses the top tube when the bars spin round.
Lo-pro ftw.
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• #9105
Im gonna make it bit longer than a pompino to avoid the overlap, that's a real issue for me as im often touching front wheel when im endo turning.
Cam: so shorter headtube and spacers are better than a "normal" sized one? (if i need to make it shorter, im gonna need like 7 or 8 cm spacers)
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• #9106
Madness. A shorter headtube (with spacers) will be less rigid.
Make the front-centre as tight as you can Clem (whilst avoiding toe overlap if it bothers you).
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• #9107
If your head tube angle is 73, you could increase your rake/offset to 40-45mm to get a bit more toe clearance and lower your trail for more responsive handling.
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• #9108
here is where iam right now:
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• #9109
Cam: so shorter headtube and spacers are better than a "normal" sized one? (if i need to make it shorter, im gonna need like 7 or 8 cm spacers)
Madness. A shorter headtube (with spacers) will be less rigid.
I was only kidding Clem, although saying that it does work well for me. I'd say it's debatable if it's stiffer or not, but a shorter head tube does tend to look a bit peculiar.
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• #9110
where are we going... frame geometry jokes!
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• #9111
ha!
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• #9112
here is where iam right now:
Looks good - high bb, good trail, small wheelbase (for 700).
What size tyre are you going to run? If you're running large tyres you might want to increase the axle to crown as the actual base of the fork sit a few cm bellow the crown. Similar with the rear, you may need to extend it chainstays and if they're crimped reinforce them as this makes them weaker (pompino crack).
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• #9113
This is my polo bike :D. Its an old Create with a small front wheel.... high tech stuff :/
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• #9114
@Hyper Allah:
Im gonna put 32 tyre max i think. I can't change the fork, this is the measurements of my kona retro road fork (the one who is on the kona by default), i would maybe switch to my P2 if y want bigger tyre, a disc brake a smaller headtub angle.This is the fork that im gonna use first:
http://sellwoodcycle.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/N199a-e1336085244149.jpg -
• #9115
Can anyone see anything glaringly obvious that I've fucked up on here?
It does seem rather short but with a 100mm stem it should be good.
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• #9117
^^Looks OK to me.
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• #9119
I was gonna go for new forks, but I've had these for almost 5 years now, so think ill just wait until they go.
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• #9120
O'shane, my teammates got a 100mm on his 14, might just e me but it feels weird having a long stem on a really short frame.
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• #9121
where are we going... frame geometry jokes!
Watch it! Nest-head!
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• #9122
I find when experimenting with stems any change feels weird, but then you just get used to it. Obviously your body position changes, but I think the effect on handling is overstated, particularly when you're talking c30mm either way. Of course a 50mm vs 150mm stem will make a difference, but 80 v 100? Pah...
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• #9123
moving my brake lever 20 deg up or down makes my bike feel different.
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• #9124
O'Shane, what size wheels & tyres have you designed that around?
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• #9125
B your totally right, on Tuesday night I was like my bike feels weird and different, then I realised that my lever had moved up about 20 degrees, changed it back and everything was fine...
I went from a 110 stem to a 90 and can't feel much of a difference, just reach a little more sometimes...
i have a medium pomp, clipless, 175 cranks and size 10 feet, i get quite bad toe overlap but it's never felt like a serious issue.