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  • i have a medium pomp, clipless, 175 cranks and size 10 feet, i get quite bad toe overlap but it's never felt like a serious issue.

  • also i really like my pomp, it's just at low speeds it's real easy to jack knife. couldn't you ask lefty will for the geo of his custom build?

  • ...it's just at low speeds it's real easy to jack knife...
    I've found this much less of a problem since switching to a 26" front wheel.

  • It's all about shorter headtubes for rigidity, plus your lever misses the top tube when the bars spin round.

    Lo-pro ftw.

  • Im gonna make it bit longer than a pompino to avoid the overlap, that's a real issue for me as im often touching front wheel when im endo turning.

    Cam: so shorter headtube and spacers are better than a "normal" sized one? (if i need to make it shorter, im gonna need like 7 or 8 cm spacers)


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  • Madness. A shorter headtube (with spacers) will be less rigid.

    Make the front-centre as tight as you can Clem (whilst avoiding toe overlap if it bothers you).

  • If your head tube angle is 73, you could increase your rake/offset to 40-45mm to get a bit more toe clearance and lower your trail for more responsive handling.

  • here is where iam right now:


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  • Cam: so shorter headtube and spacers are better than a "normal" sized one? (if i need to make it shorter, im gonna need like 7 or 8 cm spacers)

    Madness. A shorter headtube (with spacers) will be less rigid.

    I was only kidding Clem, although saying that it does work well for me. I'd say it's debatable if it's stiffer or not, but a shorter head tube does tend to look a bit peculiar.

  • where are we going... frame geometry jokes!

  • ha!

  • here is where iam right now:

    Looks good - high bb, good trail, small wheelbase (for 700).

    What size tyre are you going to run? If you're running large tyres you might want to increase the axle to crown as the actual base of the fork sit a few cm bellow the crown. Similar with the rear, you may need to extend it chainstays and if they're crimped reinforce them as this makes them weaker (pompino crack).

  • This is my polo bike :D. Its an old Create with a small front wheel.... high tech stuff :/

  • @Hyper Allah:
    Im gonna put 32 tyre max i think. I can't change the fork, this is the measurements of my kona retro road fork (the one who is on the kona by default), i would maybe switch to my P2 if y want bigger tyre, a disc brake a smaller headtub angle.

    This is the fork that im gonna use first:
    http://sellwoodcycle.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/N199a-e1336085244149.jpg

  • Can anyone see anything glaringly obvious that I've fucked up on here?

    It does seem rather short but with a 100mm stem it should be good.


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  • @uolmo, 32 will be prefect for this setup.

  • ^^Looks OK to me.

  • NKTShane: looks good, but start looking for some new forks, these won't last long, happened to me.

  • I was gonna go for new forks, but I've had these for almost 5 years now, so think ill just wait until they go.

  • O'shane, my teammates got a 100mm on his 14, might just e me but it feels weird having a long stem on a really short frame.

  • where are we going... frame geometry jokes!

    Watch it! Nest-head!

  • I find when experimenting with stems any change feels weird, but then you just get used to it. Obviously your body position changes, but I think the effect on handling is overstated, particularly when you're talking c30mm either way. Of course a 50mm vs 150mm stem will make a difference, but 80 v 100? Pah...

  • moving my brake lever 20 deg up or down makes my bike feel different.

  • O'Shane, what size wheels & tyres have you designed that around?

  • B your totally right, on Tuesday night I was like my bike feels weird and different, then I realised that my lever had moved up about 20 degrees, changed it back and everything was fine...

    I went from a 110 stem to a 90 and can't feel much of a difference, just reach a little more sometimes...

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Polo Bikes

Posted by Avatar for Shinscar @Shinscar

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