Polo Bikes

Measure your shoes.

I want 700.
I just want an idea about a decent distance between tire (28c) and crankset to avoid toe overlap. a sketchy idea.

Here's a (very crappy) pic of my gf's medium Pomp running 170 cranks, flat pedals and a 25c Marathon Plus tyre... I think it's gonna be tight but you might just get away with it if you're clipless... Hope this helps...

thanks a lot!

I want 700.

I just want an idea about a decent distance between tire (28c) and crankset to avoid toe overlap. a sketchy idea.
OK, the distance you need to know is the front centre (distance between the front axle and the BB). Within this distance, you need to be able to fit:

• Your crank (170mm)
  
• The radius of your wheel, including tyre (336mm)
  
• Your foot (depends on size of feet, position on the pedal, shoes etc.)
  This gives a total of 506mm + a bit for your foot.
  
  

The front centre measurement will be a function of:

• Effective Top Tube (ETT) length
  
• Head + seat angles
  
• Fork length
  
• Fork rake/offset
  (There may well be other factors, a good framebuilder* should be able to advise on this)
  

Spreadsheet to the rescue!

You missed out headtube length to the toptube point and crown race stack height, if the head and seat angles aren't equal.

I'm always amazed by people who want a custom frame but don't know what they want.

They do know what they want to achieve, but perhaps not how to achieve it.

(I thought I knew how to achieve what I wanted with my new bike until I spoke to Ryan who changed it for the better, etc.)

He know what he wants (no toe overlap), just not how to get it.

Balls.

He mostly wants to get to a particular end, but is unsure as to how to make a reality this end which is particular.

He seems to know what he wants, but he's unsure how to have it. #IMO

Zig-a-zig-ah.

Im pretty sure of what i want:
A shorter frame than my actual.
Without toe overlap and a more compact geometry.

My questions here were about how to calculate distance for toe overlap, and some opinions about slopey frame. (bonus question was opinions about angle between head tube and top tube).

I almost get anything i needed here, because your the most bike-nerd community, and always quick to answer. (bonus point for some weird british humour).

Jono is also right, sometime you think you know what you want, but others show you that they know better what you should get.

Also last point, i want a custom frame because i have to opportunity to get one for cheap, otherwise im pretty sur i would have get a cheap random frame as usual (or pompino, or EXS, or the one snoop shows me)

Thanks!

I say try out a Pompino if your measurements are similar. That way you know how to make the right changes. There's not much point building something too similar when a pompino is so cheap.

There's a lot of off the peg frames out there that might work. Basically a small version of what you currently have would be much better.

Don't waist your opportunity on a custom until you're sure what you want.
Test how much toe overlap you can get away with too. You might be surprised.
You want to get the front wheel as tight in as possible with a comfortable clearance.

on my plan there is a 3 cm less long Chainstay length than on a pompino. and the seat tube is 0.5 °less.

You're maybe true, but make this frame gonne be cheaper than buying a pompino, as im just gonna pay for tube sections, and nothing for the work. Also this frame gonna be probably lighter than a pompino.
This is not gonna be a real nice ended frame, more like a sketchy thing for me and the builder, cheap and quick. (this could be also a reason to try something new that's true).

Im gonna check with Nora bike too, she have one.

I have a medium pomp. With flats I can just about get toe overlap, but never while clipless.

Also have 170'cranks.

Ok and how tAll are you? And people who ride pompino, do you like it?

Six foot one, size 13 feet (186cm size 46 feet I think in European)...

I have long stem and seat post though.

Haven't you got a 26" front wheel, Louis?

I do now yeah, but everything I've said relates to when i had the stock pomp fork and 700 on front.

My actual kona fork is 43mm offset, not 45. So the trail is a lil' bit better, but nothing much (as that's on the pdf).

The two other images are if i find or make build (or custom, i don't know if that's possible with a kona retro fork) a fork with 35mm offset. This could give me a better trail. (67 instead of around 57)

( here is the fork, don't know if that's possible to reduce the offset 7 mm with this kind of fork, or is that better to make or find a new one: http://direct.coresites.mporatrons.com/rcuk/wp-content/uploads/old_images/news/images/Kona-Paddywagon-fork-lo.jpg )

3 Attachments

• Sloppey.pdf
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It goes to personal preference but I would say that 57mm of trail is 'better' than 67mm of trail. The former is roughly road-bike trail, and the latter is more towards touring bike trail.

I went from 73mm to 58 and it made the steering noticeably faster/lighter (although there are so many other variables which can't be isolated, so maybe it was something else, or a combination of things).

Thank you all for your advices, this is really helpful.

Another question, is a shorter headtub better for rigidity or not?

It's all about shorter headtubes for rigidity, plus your lever misses the top tube when the bars spin round.