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I have some of these on the Ogre. 680mm wide 20mm rise & 9% sweep. Just the right width for out of the saddle honking, whilst narrow enough to get through the trees.
I do have more of an off road background though, so only use alt bars with loads of rearwards sweep for shopping duties. I am extremely particular about setting the angle on my bars ( and everything else ) on by bikes. This leads to regular comments of "what are you doing to it now?"
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Thats mad expensive.
If you have 8 or so months to wait. Get Triton to make you one out of Ti, and choose the drop-outs you want from Paragon yourself. Probs looking at 750 for the frame.
Also. The 29er thread is a bit niche, so hijack away as far as I'm concerned (CX blurs into 29er anyway).
These guys?
I've bookmarked them for a thorough look later. I should also introduce myself to bikecaad ( is that's what it's called? ) if I'm to go down a custom route. Time's not really an issue. I waited 6 months for my 24" Surly to be in stock.
I suspect that what starts off as a cyclocrosser will gradually morph into a monstercross/ 29er after not too long :-0
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I have some of these on the Ogre. 680mm wide 20mm rise & 9% sweep. Just the right width for out of the saddle honking, whilst narrow enough to get through the trees.
I do have more of an off road background though, so only use alt bars with loads of rearwards sweep for shopping duties. I am extremely particular about setting the angle on my bars ( and everything else ) on by bikes. This leads to regular comments of "what are you doing to it now?"Setting up my Salsa bars took longer than I usually take with road bars. Tweek, tweek, tweek, after every ride. The bar ends have the exact same angle as the bar sweep. So are paralell with the bike. Cant see that in this pic though.
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These guys?
I've bookmarked them for a thorough look later. I should also introduce myself to bikecaad ( is that's what it's called? ) if I'm to go down a custom route. Time's not really an issue. I waited 6 months for my 24" Surly to be in stock.
I suspect that what starts off as a cyclocrosser will gradually morph into a monstercross/ 29er after not too long :-0
Been waiting 9 months myself.
It would at least be an excuse to browse Paragon Machine works pages of drop-outs. If you planned the chainstay length together with the adjustable drop-outs well. You could push the rear in for 28mm road tyre use, and pull it out for 1.9" 29er tyre use.
I real question would be wether you trust bike development, and go with hydraulic hose routing, or not.
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James - ta, bit small I'm afraid
SF - man you are a mine of information, keep it coming
BareNecessities - yep I did mention that Shand was a bit pricey, they have done a 29er for a very tall guy, details and pics are on their site somewhere.The problem is I'd hate to vouch for any builder going well outside the normal range and their comfort zone. On paper they should all be able to do it but I wouldn't want to swear on it. If it's any use I've had three frames from Burls with the second being sold to pay for the third. For that one I bought and supplied a set of Paragon Rockers dropouts myself. So that added about £250 to the price once I'd paid shipping and import. But it still comes in a great deal less than the Shand. Burls build in straight gauge Ti only which I reckon is probably a good thing for the larger amongst us.
For steel and a very fair price you could look at TaylorMadeBikes(http://www.taylormadebikes.co.uk/mtb.html), Angus is currently building me a steel hardtail 29er frame and is again using Paragon Rocker dropouts that I supplied....cheaper this time as steel and not Ti. There is a very large and very lovely orange road frame on his site as well.
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BareNecessities - yep I did mention that Shand was a bit pricey
The problem is I'd hate to vouch for any builder going well outside the normal range and their comfort zone. On paper they should all be able to do it but I wouldn't want to swear on it.
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Thanks MacB, I can appreciate the price that skilled craftsman charge for their work. It just comes down to available budget at the time
I certainly agree about builders going outside of their comfort zone. Having an mtb frame made by a builder that has only made road frames wouldn't ( rightly or wrongly ) inspire confidence. I would hope that having a good idea now of what dimensions & handling that I prefer, both on road & off would give me a small head start. Of course, there are other factors to consider, as you mentioned, such as tubing choice for rider weight.
This most definitely requires a lot of research. Not a problem, I'm in no rush & research is cheap :-)
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If you planned the chainstay length together with the adjustable drop-outs well. You could push the rear in for 28mm road tyre use, and pull it out for 1.9" 29er tyre use.
I real question would be wether you trust bike development, and go with hydraulic hose routing, or not.
I like the idea with the chainstays! I hadn't considered such small details as hose routing yet. I'm finding my BB7's, whilst not as smooth as my Hope Mini's, to be quite capable so far. I'll reserve judgement on them until after the Winter though. I imagine the cables might freeze up where you ride?
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I like the idea with the chainstays! I hadn't considered such small details as hose routing yet. I'm finding my BB7's, whilst not as smooth as my Hope Mini's, to be quite capable so far. I'll reserve judgement on them until after the Winter though. I imagine the cables might freeze up where you ride?
Cables freeze a bit. But you get into the habit of squeezing the levers every now and again. I'm usually out in -5 to -15 in the winter. So Dot fluid is fine. I spec'd my frame with hose guides, no front mech bits (will always be 1x, or SS, or IHG), and internal routing through the TT. I want to be able to shoulder the bike while wearing massive gloves, without fear of messing things up.
I'm sure Sram will have their Hydraulic drop levers out soon, and there are other options. But for single speed you're stuck with convertors. No idea if there is anything coming there.
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I think one of the first things to find out is how well I get on with drop bars & cross geometry offroad. I must admit, now that I've got the custom idea in my head, applying it to a type of bike that I have no real experience of is a bit worrying.
This pic I just posted over on your fatbike thread is making me consider a Titanium Belt drive version of the Ogre.
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New Orange 29er with 140mm of travel.
I still prefer my Oranges in a more industrial flavour.
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alan
iirc you are shorter than me, and my 16" hardtail fits me fine, you can borrow the soma juice for a week or so to try it out - it has big apple slick tyres on
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Anyone help me out with some tyres?
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right I have just bought Snoops Haro and hoping it can be built into a drop bar monstercross/ winter commute with the bits off my Genesis CDF.
Only issue I can see is your CDF rims being a touch narrow for monstercross tyres.
You will probably need a new (high rise) stem too.
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You're looking at 1.9" XC tyres for monstercross/winter commuting. Thats 48mm. So a fair bit bigger than a 35mm CX tyre.
I'd go with some XR1s
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^ Have you decided on which bars you're putting on the monstercross.
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If it were me I'd just get some wide (P35 or similar) rims and some some 29er small block 8s. They seem to work for most stuff at the right PSI, and I'm always in too much of a hurry to swap tyres on the way out of the door.
A more XC style width rim will take 2.2" 29er or a 32mm commuter tyre. If you're more inclined to swap tyres around.
New wheels means cassettes, brake discs etc etc.
BareNecessities
Smallfurry
MacB
almac68
dancing james
Roymund
harv4130
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To all you 29er's out there!
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@Rascal
^ Same reason I swapped out the Mary Bars on my Swift in the end. Just didn't find them as conducive to SS uphilling. I usually end up walking anyway though.