Fixed Super Light Super Safe

Originally I said i didnt want to get track dropouts welded onto a road frame as that defeats the object of seeing how light i could make a tarck bike.

I was under the impression, replacing the axle meant, swapping it out with an easily obtainable mass produced road skewer with hollow bits and adamanitium bearings.

Does this mean both Lefty and MTB front are out then? Is there no way to replace the axles with ease?

If I am currently running American Classic Aero 420s, How much lighter am i going to get it if im going to be using American Classic hubs?

Tune Cannonball is a Lefty, I cant use a lefty as it would require as Tester points out, skills and inside knowledge I just dont have.

Surely a normal MTB hub can just be refitted with a new axle(?).

My understanding of the reason for going for the lefty option is because the nondrive side bearings are bigger which is useful as you're using a WW front hub... so I guess they'd have smaller bearing/not be up to the needed forces.

FWIW I think you should do it. It's meant to be a challenge. Htfu.

Use magnets.

Tune Cannonball is a Lefty, I cant use a lefty as it would require as Tester points out, skills and inside knowledge I just dont have.
I am disapoint.

If you dont want to mess with custom axles. You could get a 28h Goldtech, or mail them and ask for a 24 (gives more crabon rim options). Not sure its that light. But hey it'll last.

http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/items.asp?CategoryID=15&Name=Goldtec+Track+Hubs

Our latest hub in our range. It is a new high end version
of our very succesfull track hub. It will come complete with the new buzz word
zero ceramic bearings, alloy axle and ti fixing bolts. You also get the option
to run a 40.00mm or a 42.50mm chainline.

Does this mean both Lefty and MTB front are out then? Is there no way to replace the axles with ease?

The axles of light MTB hubs are all different, but basically all of them would need custom axles and spacers to convert from 9x100 QR to 10x120 bolt on. The only hub I know of with a drop-in conversion is the heavy Shimano XT because it has cup and cone bearings which, unusually for a front hub, are 10mm threaded. Of course, any cartridge bearing hub with bearings of 12mm or greater ID can easily be converted to take a standard 10mm steel track axle and track nuts, but that ends up just as heavy as a light track hub.

I'd still go with the Lefty, but I know I can design the axle, I know my local machine shop, and I know where to buy small quantities of 7075T6 bar stock. If you have to discover all these things for the first time on this project, it won't be finished before Christmas 2013, so maybe an OTP solution would be best. You can then get rolling and think about upgrades at your leisure.

I am disapoint.

Know how to design the axle - nein
Know my local machine shop - nein
Know how to buy a small block of 7075T66 Alu - nein

Know how to design the axle - ask on LFGSS and on an axle design forum, pay in beer and blowies
Know my local machine shop - UTFS and then UTFP
Know how to buy a small block of 7075T66 Alu - in the event your LMS doesn't know, UTFS

ftfy :)

axle design forum?!?!

Theres an axle design forum?!

That said I agree with the idea of building a WW front wheel now, using a cheapish sensible rear, and then work on the hub while you ride.

I'd go with a cheap,28h or 32h PX pista, novatec, etc to a sensible clincher. Or you could get a 24h PX pista hub ( in stock ) and a +40mm rim... IRD do one that's 45mm iirc that only weighs a little over a standard open pro. I think wheelsmith(?) would have to build it as I think they are the only uk distributor.

Well, for the time being, I can run my rear AC as thats the more complex problem.

as for the front wheel, I am sure I can save time and effort and simply *buy *a low weight road wheel.

You want to buy my 28h miche rear hub? 4 spokes lighter than a 32h wheel and super safe. Not that light though, think i'm doing it wrong.

So, given this also seems like a general thread...

... I've had a build in my head for a while. It started off as a BHS MTB front hub with a replacement axle, etc. and a light 29er rim, with a sensible but not too heavy 28c tyre.

With all the chat going on the bling option is a ZTR Crest/Tune Cannonball: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AuzGx1fI0j6LdEhNeEZuQ3R3MjViaEh6QUlsTTBxQ3c#gid=0

My question is how to do that build but cheaper?

As I understand it the only reason for a lefty is the extra bearing size. So I could go for a BHS front (or similar ww mtb hub), and just have a less strong wheel?

I've started a build in progress using BHS hub, pillar, and what light but cheaper rim? The Stan isn't bank breaking at c.£70, so I guess that should stay. Also increasing too much weight kinda negates the point of going the disc hub route (altho I do just really like this idea ever since I first hear of it).

I don't want to piss on your bonfire Iain, but I reckon you'll come a cropper with those cranks.

why?

You'll snap them.

You'll snap them.

+1

+2, they look feeble.

Whereas Iain does not. Quite the opposite, in fact.

#mirrorathletesFTW

@ Hugo .. Slightly more expensive and slightly lighter are the BOR XMD 29er rims (with eyeleted spoke holes) .. http://clee-cycles.co.uk .. they do have a rider weight limit - like most German stuff!

surely as its a MTB crankset, its designed to take abuse and survive any times that of a road crankset?!

But this is you we're talking about.

surely as its a MTB crankset, its not designed to slam into the back of busses, as there are no busses on MTB trails?
.

@ Hugo .. Slightly more expensive and slightly lighter are the BOR XMD 29er rims (with eyeleted spoke holes) .. http://clee-cycles.co.uk .. they do have a rider weight limit - like most German stuff!

Thanks. I'm still under 90kg so that's ok. Altho I was really trying to go up in £s from the stans...

.... Or are you just trying to point out that my bling option isn't bling enough ;)

The eyelets* and offset make them sound like an option.

• although I'm not convinced having read around that eyelets are needed/add "strength".
  

surely as its an XC crankset, its designed for 7 stone whippets who float on their pedals

That's true.