Fixed Super Light Super Safe

Those cranks are absolutely awesome - no way could they look ugly! But are they super safe?

I would question this as well.

The amount of metal at the pedal end of the crank is scary. I've seen cranks snap there / get stress fractures near the threads over on WeightWeenies and I've always thought for the sake of a few grams manufacturers have vastly reduced the strength at a vital point.

It's not my frame, I can speculate without the need to come up with a proper answer.

This is the Internet after all.

Problem solved. Drill Iaiainaiaiainan's frame and get your answer.

I'll pop over to the neighbour who has my SDS drill and get it back

I used CSI enhance on the image and uncovered this beneath the paint.

I'm pretty sure Iain doesn't plan to drill this frame
This.

I am using one brake caliper on this frame and its the EE brake.

Hovis, Im happy to sell it to you for £1000- if you like.

Don't order from them, they are a bunch of idiots. Having said that i do have a spare (but pretty pointless) 28h rear hub now.

nick the plates off this

http://www.velodromeshop.net/index.php?p=product&id=1253

/don't really

Im still trying to work out what wheels this build needs.

Im quickly coming to the realisation that this is where its going to make the biggest difference and also its the most difficult.

I was actually thinking around the front MTB front hub on the rear in relation to the 40:60 with the weight limits. As its a MTB hub, its actually designed for serious punishment including going fast, downhill into things. This means that the forces applied to it are going to be much much greater than me using it as a road hub.

dammit says that he is interested to see if it can be done with the lefty hub. Is there a way to get a custom light axle easily? Who would be able to make it? Has it been done before by anyone on here?

Im still trying to work out what wheels this build needs.

Im quickly coming to the realisation that this is where its going to make the biggest difference and also its the most difficult.

I was actually thinking around the front MTB front hub on the rear in relation to the 40:60 with the weight limits. As its a MTB hub, its actually designed for serious punishment including going fast, downhill into things. This means that the forces applied to it are going to be much much greater than me using it as a road hub.

dammit says that he is interested to see if it can be done with the lefty hub. Is there a way to get a custom light axle easily? Who would be able to make it? Has it been done before by anyone on here?

Its worth remembering that there is a XC crowd with a lorry load of weight weenie £s in their pockets. So there are plenty of front hubs that wont cut it as a rear fixed hub. Hence my warning regarding weight distribution, and its effect on minimum rider calcs when using a front on the rear.

The lefty axle would be simple enough to machine. I've no idea where you'd have this done though.

It would need to be somthing like this....

Which is a dummy axle for wheel building. You'd of course need it to have threading for locknuts and track nuts.

This is a homemade dummy axle, which shows the difference in the ID of the bearings.

Your local machine shop will be the people to see regarding the axle, they can make it from titanium for you. I remember seeing a custom axle tester had made for one of his wheels.

Oy - weenies. I need a new saddle.

My current all crabon Farsports job / dodgy second from an unnamed factory in China appears to have a bonding problem between the rail & nose.

Sub 150g is your target.

Selle Italia SLR

Fizik Arione K:1

Weight limit 85Kg? If that's not a problem .. POP Products .. 59g of saddle that works (for me) ..

My usual argument the saddle is the most important point of contact between you and the machine so it needs to fit first before worrying about the weight

dammit says that he is interested to see if it can be done with the lefty hub. Is there a way to get a custom light axle easily? Who would be able to make it?

Like Mr Tester, SF etc I think the larger bearings of the lefty will make a stronger hub. I have my doubts that the complete hub assembly will be lighter due to the larger axle diameter (even if it is stepped). Just a suggestion outside of the local engineering firm / job shop whom would need a drawing to manufacture an axle, it may be worth contacting

http://hellore.se/experimentalprototype/

or SF's contact whom have custom manufacuting experience with Lefty.

The only other suggestion I have, remembering I'm not 100% familiar with MTB equipment so I'm throwing this into the arena for taking apart, is to use a bolt through front hub which would mean (if my thinking is correct) machining a simple stepped and threaded shaft.

Oy - weenies. I need a new saddle.

My current all crabon Farsports job / dodgy second from an unnamed factory in China appears to have a bonding problem between the rail & nose.

Sub 150g is your target.

Smud - 70g, 119 euros.

But saddles are personal things as is quite clearly shown by all of us listing a different carbon saddle.

You don't need a saddle TW, just leave it off and round the end of the seatpost...

Ask Dolan?

Is there a way to get a custom light axle easily? Who would be able to make it? Has it been done before by anyone on here?

If you can draw it, a machinist can make it. Should be pretty simple, you just have to decide how to retain the bearings and how to fix it to the dropouts. I can think of several different solutions, the trick is refining it to get the Dymaxion

they can make it from titanium for you. I remember seeing a custom axle tester had made for one of his wheels.

Don't use Ti for this one, it will be hugely expensive and heavier than aluminium. I only used Ti because I was already constrained to using 10mm axles, but anything over about 15mm can be done in aluminium alloy with plenty of strength. 7075T6 alloy bar is about 1/10 the price of 6Al4V Ti of the same dimensions.

Frame must weigh a metric fuck ton, those components are *de rigeur *on 5kg road bikes

1,7kg for the prototype frame, i think. Series Frames will be lighter but i don´t know how much.

as we said, heavy

Oy - weenies. I need a new saddle.

My current all crabon Farsports job / dodgy second from an unnamed factory in China appears to have a bonding problem between the rail & nose.

Sub 150g is your target.

Hovis said it with his SLR recommendation. Solidly built, cheapish, 135g, and ,for me, super comfy.

If you have more monies a Tune speedneedle. I'd love one of them.

Like Mr Tester, SF etc I think the larger bearings of the lefty will make a stronger hub. I have my doubts that the complete hub assembly will be lighter due to the larger axle diameter (even if it is stepped). Just a suggestion outside of the local engineering firm / job shop whom would need a drawing to manufacture an axle, it may be worth contacting

http://hellore.se/experimentalprototype/

or SF's contact whom have custom manufacuting experience with Lefty.

The only other suggestion I have, remembering I'm not 100% familiar with MTB equipment so I'm throwing this into the arena for taking apart, is to use a bolt through front hub which would mean (if my thinking is correct) machining a simple stepped and threaded shaft.

My contact just rebuilds the forks, hes not machining axles AFAIK.
The alu clamps he designed and had made are very nice. But like I said he did'nt make them.

Don't use Ti for this one, it will be hugely expensive and heavier than aluminium. I only used Ti because I was already constrained to using 10mm axles, but anything over about 15mm can be done in aluminium alloy with plenty of strength. 7075T6 alloy bar is about 1/10 the price of 6Al4V Ti of the same dimensions.

Defo aluminium. But are you thinking of standard threaded ends for lock nuts, and track nuts. Doesnt sound like a good place for aluminium threading.

But are you thinking of standard threaded ends for lock nuts, and track nuts.

No, I'm thinking female threads in the axle + bolts, like Goldtec, Hope, Phil, American Classic etc., or just tiny bolts + chain tugs to prevent slippage as on my T3

uuuh oo0oo!

fuck, i thought it was taking me an age to finish my bike

They're never finished