Road Wheels & Road Wheel Recommendations?

CX rays are aero profiled which is where I would imagine the benefit is at. But a 32h spoke wheel isnt going to be particularly aero compared to the 24h/20h wheelsets you usually find those sorts of spokes on.

I personally wouldn't bother, double butted will get you a good solid wheel.

But hey, what do I know

I would expect a detectable handling effect in crosswinds with 32 bladed spokes. While not really being that aero as you mentioned.

I'd go for Rev's everywhere other than the rear DS, if it were me.

ED.

Should read before I post. For a disc brake wheels get some Super comps. Might as well do the whole wheelset with them.

Daft question, SF, but why supercomps? Any particular reasoning behind the suggestion?

As a guess, I think it might be related to the fact that the braking will be done at the hub, rather than the rims, so revolutions might be too fragile.

I personally build my wheels with double butted all around except for the drive side rear where I go plain guage. That way you don't get such a large tension differential between the two sides.

ACI spokes for the win, dirt cheap from cyclebasket or sdeals.

I know very little about this, but that's never stopped me wading in before: I am sure that I had heard that double butted spokes performed better under load than plain gauge, is this untrue?

Yes, that is true, the actually stretch less than plain guage apparently. But that is offset somewhat by having 80% of the tension in the drive side if you choose to run double butted on both sides.

I've built identical rear wheels (32h open pros), one with DB both sides and one with DB on just non drive side. I'm far happier with the second set. Havent had to retrue them at all and they feel great.

Having said all that, plenty of folk are happy to use DB on both sides. Its just a personal preference of mine.

I know very little about this, but that's never stopped me wading in before

Quoted as the most sucinct way to understand this place!

Hey at least I was open about it!

I heard that too.

Back to the original question...

... I would get double butted.

Why do you buy CX-Rays? Weight, strength under tension allowing low spoke counts, etc.

You're building/buying a 32h/32h wheelset. So imo those ^ don't apply. £100 is a fair bit. You'd probably save the weight by just dropping a bit of the spoke count.

However, one thing to remember is if you're building a disc wheelbuild then things might be a little different. I really don't know. The Wheelbuilder would be better placed to advise.

The set of wheels I've just finished making have 32 hole rims (Mavic Open Pros) and I've used CX-Rays. Although the aero properties are pretty much irrelevant by the time you're up to 32 spokes, they're light and strong, which is good. But the real reason why I like using CX-Rays is because it's so easy to avoid spoke wind-up when using high spoke tensions by using a spoke holding tool at the same time as a spoke key. YMMV, but in my book the extra cost is justified by the ease of use.

I also think they look nice...

And if very bored you can trim the verge on the side of the road as you go past.

Just don't do a Chris Anker Sorensen and decide to play with the spokes as you're riding along...

No, that would be stupid

^^^^ but then what's the rational for having high tensions on a set of low profile 32h wheels?

Opinion seems to be swinging in favour of DB spokes rather than the CX rays. I think for 32/32 road discs wheels where the intended use is audax / light tour / day rides / towpath / nothing too serious type stuff then they'll be fine.

Ta all.

^^^^ but then what's the rational for having high tensions on a set of low profile 32h wheels?

Because I want strong wheels for that particular bike, which is why I went for 32h. Spoke tension has no effect on wheel stiffness but keeping the spoke tension high will mean that the spokes don't become unloaded on big hits, which means the wheels are stronger.

Makes sense.

I'm always curious to find out more, and hear why different people choose their various set ups.

Daft question, SF, but why supercomps? Any particular reasoning behind the suggestion?

Not a daft question at all.

Super comps are triple butted. The part that meets the hub is the same, but the next butted section from this is thicker than a rev to add stiffness for disc braking. After that a thinner mid section again leads to the thread portion. Think of them as revs with added beef near the hub. This extra weight is compensated for somewhat by the threaded end being thinner. Thus you need nipples with a narrower threaded hole. Which is an added bonus for alu nipple using WWs.

Definitely my favourate spokes for wheels to be used with disc brakes. Used them on a couple of wheelsets with great results. So much so that I'm using them on the fatbike.

Mentioning WW and posting that wheel in the same breath?
You're a wrong'un.

Imagine how heavy it could have been

Mentioning WW and posting that wheel in the same breath?
You're a wrong'un.

Its not actually that heavy. Dont forget the alu nips ;)

That might be because I built it around the same time as this....

...which doesnt have alu nips.

Digging this up from a few pages/months back.
These are sensational.
What did you end up pairing them with?

Oh Yes. Looking forward to getting these bad boys laced up to my rims :)

Just ordered a 2012 Shimano R501 30mm Wheelset from Ribble Cycles for £77 from £159.99.

There are plenty of bargain wheelsets to be had, some for less than half price using the LONDON10 10% off code (if you're quick - it ends today)

Novatech
http://www.cnc-bike.de/product_info.php?cPath=25_105_214&products_id=7933
http://www.cnc-bike.de/product_info.php?cPath=25_105_214&products_id=5921

Have Novatech.

Great value, in my view, it's either get decent cheap hubs, or pay more for high quality hubs, never in-between.

I received this from DCR wheels:

dst,

I think 85kg would work with the superlight set, however I would be
inclined to go with the 24:28 lacing. I would perhaps look to go for
a tougher rim (than the A23) if you ride on rougher roads and you are a harsher, more
powerful rider.

Kind Regards,

David

Any other fat mashers have A23s? Are they not worth it?