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• #227
I have used wooden croquet mallets - good length and easy to carry
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• #228
My RV head mallets are light enough... I'm gonna have thick-walled shafts for throw-ins and "lights" for tournaments, ooh!
£15 for a complete mallet is awesome.
That's expensive!
Ski pole $1
Scavenged Pipe free
Bolt & Coupler $1.80
Left over bar tape free
Chair leg cap $0.10$2.90 AU done
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• #229
Jono's mallets will score about 7.9 times as many goals though.
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• #230
^^ That's how I've always made my mallets. Build my first RV/Perro mallet yesterday. Feels heavier than my home made efforts but that's probably due to the cap on the head. See how it goes this weekend
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• #231
one of the newmarket guys introduced us to a awesome way of fixing heads to poles.
i think he used a nut-sert? (all i remember calling it is "nutsack")
worked pretty well and you could use lots of sizes of bolt
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• #232
rivet nuts? i have a small box of them at home that i was going to try out on next mallet build
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• #233
one of the newmarket guys introduced us to a awesome way of fixing heads to poles.
i think he used a nut-sert? (all i remember calling it is "nutsack")
worked pretty well and you could use lots of sizes of bolt
I would like to see this, I will be building my new mallet soon and looking for a good way to fix with a single bolt in the base without the chance of twisting.
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• #234
I will be building my new mallet soon and looking for a good way to fix with a single bolt in the base without the chance of twisting.
M6 nut in the shaft, M6 countersunk bolt, crown the shaft with the file so that it bites the plastic and can't rotate. Job done.
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• #235
one of the newmarket guys introduced us to a awesome way of fixing heads to poles.
i think he used a nut-sert? (all i remember calling it is "nutsack")
worked pretty well and you could use lots of sizes of bolt
rivet nuts? i have a small box of them at home that i was going to try out on next mallet build
Yeah nutserts are a brand of rivet nut. I guess it would work as well as an M6 nut, it's something i'm looking into at the moment.
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• #236
M6 nut in the shaft, M6 countersunk bolt, crown the shaft with the file so that it bites the plastic and can't rotate. Job done.
I did this on my helles belles head and the plastic just got knawed away but the teeth in the shaft. My RV head might be better however
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• #237
I've never had that issue, not sure why that would be the case.
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• #238
If your spikes aren't big enough then the head can spin and wear away at the plastic... if you make huge spikes (and hammer them into the plastic before securely fastening with the bolt) then you shouldn't have a problem.
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• #239
That's expensive!
Ski pole $1
Scavenged Pipe free
Bolt & Coupler $1.80
Left over bar tape free
Chair leg cap $0.10$2.90 AU done
I'd like to know where in Australia you are a) finding a ski pole and b) finding a ski pole for $1. Lies!!!
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• #240
janky mallets >>>
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• #241
^agree.
I hate that vintage yellow pipe too.
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• #242
What's the advantage of using a nutsert over a standard nut other than the comedy name?
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• #243
Weight. Needs a specialist tool to make work, so only really good if you know a man...
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• #244
Weight.
srsly?
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• #245
I'd like to know where in Australia you are finding a ski pole
'The Snow'?
Apparently they have some 'creamys' over there.
Ew. -
• #246
Yep, the only advantage. Nut/bolt, to be honest, best method.
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• #247
Wouldn't reaming a thread into the pole be a better method?
(only a matter of time)
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• #248
Next mallet.
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• #249
Wouldn't reaming a thread into the pole be a better method?
(only a matter of time)
all ready done
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• #250
doen also here, but I think is not ideal, the small diameter of the pole at the botton mean that the teeth can fuck the head very quick.
the nut donw the pole is better
Bum, I've just done something similar (changed saddle, moved it up and forward, also changed forks back so now have 2 brakes again)... Didn't think to test it with my mallet...
Always a good idea to make lots of changes before playing league games :-/