Tyres for track

There's grit/mud that can get on the track from the infield and people riding their bikes to the track.

The old school bodge for super tight clearances is a couple of ball bearings on top of your wheel axle to raise the forks slightly before tightening your track nuts.

or just use your mitts before going on.
vittoria all the way for me, ask edscoble about gettin em on

I ride 20's on the track.

Can't see any reason why 20s wouldn't be fine. I rode 18s for a bit.

Cool, thanks - 20s it will be.

I weight about 90kg if that makes any difference.
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It does to a certain extent. Moreso on steeper tracks, as long as you get high pressure tyres, they will be OK. The vittoria diamante pro come up pretty big in the 23, so perhaps the 20 will be perfect?

The vittoria diamante pro come up pretty big in the 23

Although oddly they come up quite small in the 20c; they're actually slightly narrower than the rims when mounted on my Shimano RS30s

20c on an outdoor track isnt so great at the bends, more rubber would be better. Im not sure what HH surface is like, in Dublin the track is fine but sometimes kids throw glass on, I know a few use conti gp supersonic, what are they like for punctures? Theres no puncture protection layer but I presume they are alot more resitant than a conti tempo

20c on an outdoor track isnt so great at the bends, more rubber would be better. Im not sure what HH surface is like, in Dublin the track is fine but sometimes kids throw glass on, I know a few use conti gp supersonic, what are they like for punctures? Theres no puncture protection layer but I presume they are alot more resitant than a conti tempo

Maybe I'll just put a 20c on the front and see how it goes - less weight on that wheel so perhaps it won't be an issue.

I tried 20c f, 23c r with cont gp4000s and latex tubes, felt very fast but steering was too twitchy for me. Possibly the frame I had at the time. Theres a 22&24c conti pack(attack&force), same as 4000s but slightly different grooves and lighter,

Another old wives' tale surfaces.

Because narrow tyres have longer contact patches (see: Why wide tyres have lower rolling resistance), they actually increase your trail by placing the hindmost contact point further behind the projected steering axis, thereby slowing your steering.

Another old wives' tale surfaces.

Because narrow tyres have longer contact patches (see: Why wide tyres have lower rolling resistance), they actually increase your trail by placing the hindmost contact point further behind the projected steering axis, thereby slowing your steering.

Im comparing how my bike handled with 23&23 and 20&23, the contact patch wont be longer if the psi is higher than with the 23mm so trail shouldnt be effected, the total surface area of contact patch would be smaller, also the lighter 20c tyre would make the front wheel feel 'flighty'

Anyone tried Michelin Atoms?

colm, mdcc_tester,
The reason people generally warn off heavier riders from using 20c clinchers is because of a perceived chance of pushing the tyre off the bead when jumping at extreme angles in steep turns. This is generally an American opinion, and they do have some steeper outdoor tracks than we do in the British isles.
It could just as easily be another old wives tale, but there's not many reasons not to rather be safe than sorry and there's no measurable performance benefits in sprint events from having a 20c over a 22c. It's probably not even that expensive to get a new fork which takes a 23c compared to the cost of good tyres these days.