My ongoing Brooklyn Machine Works Gangsta project

I have that fork but it's 15mm lower than the original, which is fine but it cause the reach to be longer (steeper head angle), and thus required a 60mm stem (with road bar/brake hood) instead of the 80mm.

Saw a Kinesis Pure CX fork that's pretty light, decent price and at 405mm matching the Gangsta's original length 410mm (AFAIK from the terrible CS of BMW) so will be replacing the Easton with that.

On chubs, I think there were stories a while back of QC issues floating around on the internet.

However, I thought this from here was worth quoting:

Shit, this is exactly why I stopped spending time here.

Listen: if you don't care about how or why something works and only about the amount of money you have to spend on it, yes, Phils are going to be suggested over Chubs every time. If you actually want to make practical, tangibly improved, and worthwhile upgrades to a fixed gear, you'd better look somewhere else.

As is said in every other stupid "hub x vs. hub y" thread, hubs are a stupid, stupid upgrade, as you will not be able to tell that they've been changed*. You're not going to feel or see a difference between a Phil or a Formula hub, except that the Phil looks like it should cost more (as in the finish on the Phil is clearly superior to the Formula). Performance-wise, a hub shell is a hub shell, and as long as its design is sturdy, it doesn't matter one fucking iota whether it was made in Taiwan or on the fucking Moon. What matters is the bearings, the seals, and the effort put into maintaining them. Everything else is just fashion. As Jesse pointed out, if you want to get something flashy, at least get something which will actually feel flashier, and have a positive impact on your ride.

Before anyone misunderstands, Phils are obviously at about the top of the pile, as far as hubs are concerned. They're beautiful, made in the USA (well, the shells are), and lend you lots of nerd cred. If you have the money to throw around, get them, please. But don't try to justify your need for them by citing increased performance, making mention of anything being "buttery," or claiming that you can just "feel" the difference. They're purely a luxury item, not a practical one. The difference between the Phil and the Chub is that Phil hasn't completely fucked up their entire line of products once already, and they don't glue their shit together. If you are forcing yourself to get a small penis compensating hub, get a Phil you fucking morons.

• That is, of course, unless your hub(s) are fucked up because you know shit about maintaining things that you buy and thus have never serviced them.
  
  
  

But my overall view is they look fun and if you like them, who cares.

I have that fork but it's 15mm lower than the original, which is fine but it cause the reach to be longer (steeper head angle), and thus required a 60mm stem (with road bar/brake hood) instead of the 80mm.

How does it make the reach longer? The seat angle also increases by exactly the same amount.

How does it make the reach longer? The seat angle also increases by exactly the same amount.

truth bomb.

On chubs, I think there were stories a while back of QC issues floating around on the internet.

However, I thought this from here was worth quoting:

But my overall view is they look fun and if you like them, who cares.

the people i have spoke to who use them (rear) recon they can feel the difference in the wheel build and stiffness as the spokes are shorter. very direct

How does it make the reach longer? The seat angle also increases by exactly the same amount.

it does, but it also mean the saddle sit further forward to the BB, and made it felt a bit like a TT position, thus move saddle back a bit and end up getting shorter stem.

^^ Probably true.

I noticed the difference between wheels with deeper rims, heavier rims, and shorter spokes.

I just liked reading someone countering the view that hubs 'feel' different. I thought I could feel the difference with my Royce BB, Royce vs On-One vs DA hubs... but maybe it was all just in my head.* Not really too fussed either way, but I find it interesting. Equally I wasn't trying to knock the hubs. I like the way they look, although they should make a front to match the rear.

• I do get that spoke length, number of spokes, rims, weight, age, maintenance, may all have an impact as well.
  

it does, but it also mean the saddle sit further forward to the BB, and made it felt a bit like a TT position, thus move saddle back a bit and end up getting shorter stem.

But it still doesn't alter the reach, it simply rotates the whole body forward a touch. :]

But it still doesn't alter the reach, it simply rotates the whole body forward a touch. :]

Enough to notice it after a forum ride in Essex, put shorter stem and felt normal again.

I just liked reading someone countering the view that hubs 'feel' different. I thought I could feel the difference with my Royce BB, Royce vs On-One vs DA hubs... but maybe it was all just in my head.

I think the same too, honestly can't tell much difference between a Phils and a System EX hubs, much like the difference in crank length (beside the obvious toe overlap).

Enough to notice it after a forum ride in Essex

Reach is the distance between the bars and the saddle...fitting shorter forks and steepening the angles of the whole bike doesn't magically stretch the top tube Ed.
YOU chose to alter the reach by moving the saddle, numbnuts! :]
You're confusing two different things!

Whats the widest tyre you can fit on a gangsta?
If you put 26" on it what about then.
What is a suitable replacement for the fork, but with disc tabs/ canti bosses?
Cheers,
Relatively warm of Nottingham

Reach is the distance between the bars and the saddle...fitting shorter forks and steepening the angles of the whole bike doesn't magically stretch the top tube Ed.
YOU chose to alter the reach by moving the saddle, numbnuts! :]
You're confusing two different things!

lower the fork = steepened the head angle, we got that

put handlebar and saddle forward a bit, not a problem. except the BB doesn't move forward, thus I moved the saddle back a bit.

is that's not the case?

You're completely missing the point Ed....nevermind! :]

you could make the fork 1cm long - the distances between each of the bottom bracket, saddle and handlebars wouldn't change - the reach stays the same. You'd end up pointing directly at the floor, but the reach is constant.

Anyone help me with my questions? Would like to sort it out soon.
/Sorry OP for butting in on your thread.

Whats the widest tyre you can fit on a gangsta?
If you put 26" on it what about then.
What is a suitable replacement for the fork, but with disc tabs/ canti bosses?
Cheers,
Relatively warm of Nottingham

in answer to your questions, about 43c is the max.

dont ever, EVER think about putting 26s on a gangsta. stupid idea. would drop the BB too low, would look shit. its not a trick bike.

as for the fork, maybe an onza tuff guy? not too sure on that one.

Why you wanting to change the fork from the original bladed BMW one anyway?

I think I'll just get some disc tabs brazed on.
I need a brake, always have, always will.
Don't want it to be a trick bike, and theoretically a fat tyred 26 should have the same diameter as a 23c 700c, and since I love taking it through the nearby forest already, may as well make it as practical as possible!
Will probably just get some 38c cross tyres.

I had panaracer 35s on mine. The v1 forks would def fit something bigger but I'm not sure of the rear as it was quite far back on the dropouts. The v2 so has the seatstay bridge which the v1 doesn't so you have to keep that in mind.
Personally I think the chubs look great on the gangsta and perform amazingly too, good shout FTF :)

I think I'll just get some disc tabs brazed on.
I need a brake, always have, always will.
Don't want it to be a trick bike, and theoretically a fat tyred 26 should have the same diameter as a 23c 700c, and since I love taking it through the nearby forest already, may as well make it as practical as possible!
Will probably just get some 38c cross tyres.

Cross tyres are a whole different ballgame. Even a 35 cross tyre gave very little mud clearance on mine.
I would get a launchpad if you want clearance.
I know Ged the importer still had an awesome kawazaki green with glitter laquer launchpad if you want me to ask him? Think it was the large which is about a 55cm equivalent.

I've had Kenda slant six 35's and now Panaracer cinder x 35's, both have good clearance in my opinion. I think that V2 has more clearance than OG, though I've only had 28c on that. I had first the original fork, but then changed it to Easton EC70 x.

Here's a link to pics with different setups:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/52956555@N06/sets/72157625557149714/

It's always been the seatstays that lack clearance rather than the chainstay/BB area.
I've never looked up close at the V2 but heard that they have a touch more clearance too.

Cheers for all the advice, will be thinking hard about how best to adapt it.