Slipping cranks, drive chain slip?

make sure when you do the hard start the lock ring is not on. thats the key. you use your pedal stroke to push the cog all the way on the threads. then you tighten the cog. sucks you have to get the wheel off again.

ah no biggie getting the wheel off. il give it a go. thanks for the help!

Rotafixing should make sure your cog is on tight enough, then tighten the lockring with a lockring tool tight as you can, even give it a quick twat with a chisel and hammer to make sure that shit is really tight.... and always grease up yo threads.

What exactly is a 'hub strip' or 'stripping the hub'?

I've had the cog slip a few times after heavy skiddage, but just gave it some real hammering and then tightened up the lock ring.

What exactly is a 'hub strip' or 'stripping the hub'?

I've had the cog slip a few times after heavy skiddage, but just gave it some real hammering and then tightened up the lock ring.

The threads on the hub just go, either get flattened out or they're not straight and the cog won't lock or won't lock on straight. This has happened to me, had no money for a new hub or to attempt to get it rethreaded so I used a threadlocker and now the cog is pretty much permanently stuck to the hub. Good idea for a beater IMO.

*edit: just realised this is a hella old thread. unintentional BUMP

On my fixed gear when i ride it recently the chainring or bottom bracket slips when I cycle of the line hard. It the. Slips back when I skid stop any ideas what the problem is? Cheers

Your cog ain't on properly.

Sorry for digging up old threads, but on my road bike i'm running 9 spd dura ace cassette, 105 chain and rear mech. I can feel slipping on two rings, the 3rd and 4th from the smallest. Why would it slip on just these two and not the rest? and how can i stop it!
Thanks

Depends what you mean by slipping. If it's chain slip, it's likely to be worn cogs on the cassette. If they're the ones you use the most, they'll be the most worn and the likeliest to slip.

If it's slipping from one cog to the next, ie slipping gears, in that area when all the rest are fine, you may find it's a bent derailleur hanger.

Hi folks,

I've had a search through threads and even consulted Sheldon but can't quite find possible answers re above. I'm sure someone here will be able to guide me though.

First experience of converting a geared bike to a singlespeed, using spacer kit and chain tensioner. Chain runs fine when just spinning the cranks by hand but when riding and putting weight on it the chain jumps.

Is this likely to be because
i) chain is too loose and needs a few links taken out
ii) chainline isn't as straight as it could be and spacers need to be moved about a bit
iii) both of the above
iv) something else I haven't thought of

I'm presuming that is it the first reason. Chain is running on 42/16 with the tensioner. Is there approximate chain length suitable which I should aim for?

Any advice gratefully received! Cheers...

it'll be i and ii. Get the chain as short as you can so that the tensioner is as close to horizontal as possible, it's a pain 'cos the tensioner will be pulling against you as you try to re join the chain, so zip tie it up to the chainstay to take the sension off whilst you rejoin.

Is it a new chain and an old sprocket?

old chainring? chain would be skipping on worn tooth, especially when applying more force
Not sure if that's what you meant by jumping

Where is the chain jumping? the front or the back.

I had a slipping problem at the back with 38x16 (off-road). Getting a load of tension on (as Alkali says above) helped. Some tensioners you can adjust but others you just have to shorten the chain.

Getting some more chain-wrap on the rear cog with an 18t cog cured it for me.

A metre long metal ruler is useful for measuring your chainline, just line it up against the chainring. Is it still a road chainset on it with ramps and pins?

The crankset/chainring is a Sugino Messenger has been transferred from an old Langster. It has had quite a bit of wear so that might be part of the problem (the sprocket and chain are new).

Alkali - think I probably do need to take a bit of length out of the chain - think the tensioner is sitting at the wrong angle at the moment.

Anyway, I shall look at it again tonight with points above in mind and see how that goes. Thanks chaps, much obliged!

If the chain came from the geared set up,it may be too small to fit over your chain ring if it is 1/8"

This was happening yesterday. So I tightened up both the left and right crank today (I was able to tighten both about a quater of a turn) and went out for a ride. Exactly the same thing happened!

WHat do you think? May be it isn't the cranks? Maybe the , errr, bottom bracket? The cog? Erm, the rear wheel nuts? I'm rather lost, any guidance would be much appreciated.

Thanks guys.

Was happening to my friends bike, then figured out it was the lockring not the cranks.

Tighten the lock ring!

Thanks mate, I'll give that a try & see how it goes.

Thanks very much.

Cool, let us know if it doesn't help.
Indra

The lock ring is certainly tight. Oh no! look what I've done to my tool trying to remove the lock ring (I believe the rock ring has a reverse thread).

The lock ring has some white stuff around it. I thought maybe that was loctite (it is a second hand bike).

1 Attachment

Yes lockrings are reverse thread, probably should have warned you about that, sorry man.

Yes lockrings are reverse thread, probably should have warned you about that, sorry man.

I knew that. Yet I still messed up that (cheap, nasty) lock ring tool.

I've tried a hammer and a chisel, still no luck!

If I do manage to get the lock ring and the cog off and, assuming my threads are fucked, would I be able to put a cog and a lock ring on the other side of the hub and ride fixed?

I'm not sure, because the other side of the hub looks like this? Is this freewheel only?

Thank you!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/39896672@N07/7991959700/