Silde film (pro versions, and many prosumer/amateur ones also) have a very narrow latitude of exposure tolerance. Often its no more than 0.5 of a stop of over exposure, to 1 stop of under-exposure. Negative film can easily have a latitude of 3 stops over or of under-exposure, and a reasonable to good quality print can still be achieved from it. 2 stops over or under on slide film, will render the image almost all white, to all black. Well, nearly anyway - I'm exaggerating for effect.
Negative film = handles over and under-exposure well (3 stops variance over and underexposed).
Transparency film = does NOT tolerate more than only 1 stop off, either over or underexposed.
As I'd said CYOA, I did shoot a wedding on slide only, and used 2 Mamiya C33 cameras for the event. I metered for each and every shot. Slow and laborious, but I think I only missed 2 shots in total. Very successful, but I proved to myself that I could do it. Never again though. Negative film is better for most purposes.
Silde film (pro versions, and many prosumer/amateur ones also) have a very narrow latitude of exposure tolerance. Often its no more than 0.5 of a stop of over exposure, to 1 stop of under-exposure. Negative film can easily have a latitude of 3 stops over or of under-exposure, and a reasonable to good quality print can still be achieved from it. 2 stops over or under on slide film, will render the image almost all white, to all black. Well, nearly anyway - I'm exaggerating for effect.
Negative film = handles over and under-exposure well (3 stops variance over and underexposed).
Transparency film = does NOT tolerate more than only 1 stop off, either over or underexposed.
As I'd said CYOA, I did shoot a wedding on slide only, and used 2 Mamiya C33 cameras for the event. I metered for each and every shot. Slow and laborious, but I think I only missed 2 shots in total. Very successful, but I proved to myself that I could do it. Never again though. Negative film is better for most purposes.