My new Polo bike for 2012

Todd id right, but I do think changing your bike set-up can improve your game.

John, before you plan a whole new bike, I would urge you to try setting your bike up differently. I think I know what you want to change about your game (and therefore your bike) from chats beside the court. I would recommend raising your saddle, change to an in-line seat post and put the seat forward, lengthen your stem and drop your bars, change tyres to 32c slicks, and then play like that for at least 2 months.

That will increase your speed, reduce the perceived length of your bike allowing you to play further around the front (no-one really plays much around the back of their bikes, apart from Todd).

You can probably borrow/buy for beer parts from other players to try that out, and your bike will feel like a new bike. AFAIC I only started playing polo properly after Greifmasters this year when I raised my saddle and dropped my bars.

I don't think we should ignore the desire to build new bikes and work on bikes. One of the differences between London scene and all others in europe is that we came together via a bike forum; we already have the desire to build and work on bikes. I was chatting to Benji a few days ago, a player we met in Bordeaux, who was saying that he hadn't ridden a bike for years before he played polo. A lot of the players he knows in france don't have the focus we have on equipment. I'm not saying we are right or wrong, but when you are not aware of all the different frames and parts and gear ratios available you focus on playing the best game you can on the bike you know. Obviously down the line these players realise they are riding a piece of shit and upgrade (look at Paul from CMD now on 26 Riding in Circles) but the time they spent on one bike gave them an opportunity to develop their positional game, mallet skills, speed, composure, etc etc etc. Instead we are focussing on getting the equipment right which hopefully will lead to the rest. It won't.

Todd/Rupert/Jono, do one of these for each of your bikes!

Long valve fail!

#schraderforlyf

Theres nothing wrong with getting a polo specific bike, it makes sense. But there is merit to what has been said look at the 6 bikes in the final of the WHBPC: charge plug, 2 x iros, pompino, mke brusier and yorgos weird bike that greg was riding.

Definitely something to be said about riding your bike for a while before changing everything, like some players do.

(My ideal polo cranks would be the external RS8s if you have the cash John.)

What type and why Jon? I'm thinking unos for weight saving or 5 arm for contact points and strength. (And they look well wicked, yeah)

Also when you say external, what are you referring to? The BB? What would an internal be?

John H, I'll be keeping a close eye on this thread. I think we're in a similar boat. At the moment I'm torn between a Max Power or a Hija. An 853 Oak would be top of the list but will have to wait a while I reckon. I'm leaning towards a Max Power but still a bit worried about the long TT.

Seriously we need to concentrate on raising the quality of our game as we're getting quite far behind the other countries who don't seem to give such a fuck about their bikes.

You knows it.

Internal would be square taper/octalink/isis like so:

Most are non adjustable and the axle isn't removable. The cranks are tightened against the taper/splines on the axle.

External BB:

The bearings sit outside the BB housing as the name explains. Bigger bearings last longer etc. The cranks are then tensioned directly against the bearing face with the axle running straight through.

What type and why Jon?

I'm going Uno, but wait and see if I bend it before you decide? Agreed the 5 arm is going to be tougher. I've had loads of respect for Middleburn cranks since the 90s, I reckon they make some of the lightest/toughest/stiffest cranks around.

Also, I thought you were going to take Ryan's old bike? Or are you and Horatio knife fighting for it (or something)?

Hope should be releasing cranks this year...

Middleburn seem to have dropped the ball a while ago, in terms of being at the forefront of technology. Just IMO.

The Middleburn crank arms always seem a little too thin. I've bent sugino 75 arms, which look much heftier. But I can't deny the chainrings are very nice, the whole chainset is pretty. And the lifetime warranty can't be beaten I guess.

I'm always worried by the tiny surface area the torque passes through between the chainring and the splines.

I'm pro-external, but I need to swap my RaceFace EvolveXCs for some shimano chanks - RF use a driveside self-extracting crankbolt which means as soon as there's the slighest bit of play, my fixie kicks forwards and back will work it looser. Also, the bolt is soft as fuck. Driveside bondage ftw.

I'm always worried by the tiny surface area the torque passes through between the chainring and the splines.

Maybe if you're a freewheel exploder, or constant chain breaker... it's unlikely to to be the weak point of your drivetrain.

Voidcore keeps telling me to get a freewheel, but I'm still happy with my 1/8th fixed drivetrain...

Anybody got any idea on pricings of the mister x or max power frame-sets??

I have middleburns (not fitted yet) with the dual 4-arm spider. Reason: UNO chainring is 50 quid a pop. Bash guard (butchered 32T, would rather not have 4 arms sticking out) on the outer ring, 26t on the inner. As snoops said, lifetime warranty is pretty assuring in terms of wear and durability.

So, after trying out Hannes' Max Power L over the weekend, I have to say I love it, and especially the way Hannes has set it up, it felt perfect for me, there are very few things I'd change on it.

So I'm now thinking of Max Power in L, flat bars, double disk brakes.
I'll move the Paul Lever, and the grips across from the old bike, but not much else.

I'll need to think about wheel too. I could go with the same Chukker 48 hole option like Hannes uses, or maybe something lighter.

I also need to think about the BB and cranks. Currently I'm using BMX components, which seem to be bombproof, but maybe not the lightest.

why flat bars as opposed to risers?
I know alot of people use them but why the preference?

I have a pair of saints cranks and bb, both barely used 170mm, 68/73 bb shell, comes with a FSA bash guard - 110

So, after trying out Hannes' Max Power L over the weekend, I have to say I love it, and especially the way Hannes has set it up, it felt perfect for me, there are very few things I'd change on it.

Shit, i completely forgot to try it out. Bollocks.

dibs ben

why flat bars as opposed to risers?
I know alot of people use them but why the preference?

I can only speak for myself, but the only reason I would use them is that I can put the lever and grips exactly where I want them.

Yep, you don't have any bends to get in the way of levers/grips.

Personally I prefer risers as I don't have a mechanic stand and need the bike to stand upside-down.

You can achieve any contact point you like with either bar, so it's just personal preference really.

Flat bars are easier to source without sweep too (if desired).

IMO wouldn't run flat bars without sweep. You'll really feel it in your wrists after a while. 5 degrees sweep at least, from personal experience.

I guess the sweep also depends on the width you run them at.

Well, at the moment, as I have my risers rotated 90 degrees, I effectively have flat bars with sweep, just without the advantage of being able to put the lever where I want.

Risers rule... My new polo bike should be ready in a month...

Have you ordered the Max Power, H-Bomb?