Any question answered...

Still, thanks for all your help guys

Been a while, but I'm going to guess £12.50

been a while, but i'm going to guess £12.50

£12.79??

they're apparently 1521g, good enough for me. They're about £100 less on chainreaction but I was willing pay that to have them immediately and have the support from a local shop that employs friends of mine.

According to WeightWeenies they are 1527g sans rim tape and skewers.

What is NOS? And is NJS related to it? If so, what is that also?

NJS for nasty japanese shit, you want to steer clear of if

hold your cursor over the three letters

What is NOS? And is NJS related to it? If so, what is that also?

Nos is nitrous oxide, you squirt it into your car engine to make it go wheeeeeeee!

Or into your lungs to go teeheehee.

It seems that, unless there is any special method I don't know about, there is no way of getting it off

Probably not going to help your situation, but in general for taking off pedals get the spanner and crank adjacent with about 15° separation (spanners are made with the slot offset from the handle axis to make this easier) allowing you to squeeze the two together like the handles of a pair or pliers, this keeps everything stable enough that you can use both hands to squeeze. If you arrange things with the spanner above the cranks, assuming the bike is standing on its tyres, you can just push down on the spanner roughly in line with the BB axis and the actions/reactions balance out so that the cranks don't turn as you apply the force.

And 40Nm should do it for tightening, although Jobst Brandt will be pleased to explain to you why the interface is so fundamentally flawed that no tightening torque can really be called adequate, since the pedals will loosen at any torque short of the failure stress of the thread.

Yours are probably stuck because of electrolytic corrosion caused by dry assembly and long service in wet conditions, but at least with steel in aluminium you have a sporting chance, unlike the perennial favourites of aluminium (seat posts, quill stems) in steel.

I bought Shimano RS80's. £450 from Condor, 1500g, feel very nice.

I was fully on track to build my bike today, until I got to the penultimate step, cabling up the derailleurs, when I discovered the cable holder inside the right shifter has snapped. Rendering it useless.
So very annoyed.

I've got a pair of RS20 and whilst the sealing on the hubs is not great, they are cracking wheels for £120 a set! I can imagine the RS80 are the mutts nuts.

I can imagine the RS80 are the mutts nuts.

They're OK, but not three times as good as RS20s. Law of diminishing returns and all that.

What about the 7900 C24 CLs? Would someone be nuts to spend £550 on a pair for their 'fancy' bike? Already have some heavy areo wheels and thought it might be nice to have some lighter (~450/500g lighter) low profile wheels to compliment them.

Pedals tighten toward the front of the bike, loosen toward the rear.

This is only true 50% of the time.

What about the 7900 C24 CLs? Would someone be nuts to spend £550 on a pair for their 'fancy' bike?

Fairly nuts, yes. RS80s are the same rims and spokes, so all the weight saving and extra expense of the DuraAce is in the hubs. If you were going to ride a proper CTT style hill climb but still wanted to avoid tubulars, it might just about make sense. If you just want something for windy days, the C35 looks like a better bet, albeit £325 extra.
http://www.merlincycles.co.uk/Bike+Shop/Wheels/Road+Wheels/Factory+Road+Wheels/Shimano+Dura+Ace+7900+C35+Wheelset+-+Clincher_WH7900C35CL.htm

Pedals tighten toward the front of the bike, loosen toward the rear if your wrench hand is above the pedal spindle

This is true 100%* of the time

*but maybe not 100.000% of the time.

If I could stretch to it, I think I would go for the 35s, but this bike has gone way over budget already. Which makes the 24s even harder to justify as it is, but the ponce/snob in me really wants the DA. Plus I like the idea of having some shallow rims just from a cosmetic standpoint.

Maybe better with something handbuilt? http://www.poshbikes.com/product.php?id=141

Be aware- the Poshbikes pricing is at least three years out of date, you'll get a surprise when you ring them and the price is suddenly much, much higher.

This is only true 50% of the time.

If you invert the bicycle to get to the other side of it you might be correct.

How much are evans gonna charge to do this for me? Pretty sure the pedal wrench is now broken beyond repair. My bike has one nice shiny new pedal and one stupid plastic pedal. I am sad.

I went through all this recently, however I went a few steps further including using a vice, a big mallet, a massive wrench, heating it up with a blow torch to expand the metal...

In the end WD40 left to soak over a few nights and taddar! magic pedal removal the next day without fire or hammers.

Maybe better with something handbuilt?

Depends on what you want them for. If you want some 'Spring Classic' wheels (or at least you want to pretend you need some), get Ambrosio Excellight on 7900 hubs from http://www.wheelsmith.co.uk/wheelprices.htm

If you just want some low profile rims that work, get RS20s and spend the other £400 on a holiday.

Events that I'm planning on using them for are the Tour of Flanders sportive, a week's training in the Pyrenees (apparentely we're recreating some 'classic' Vuelta/Tour stages) and then a bunch of BC national/regional road races (mainly in the north so reasonably hilly) and maybe a coast to coast to coast in 17 hours attempt (though I'm thinking the American Classic Carbon 58s may be better over that distance.

The trouble is that I've got myself too caught up in Weenieism and now I can't help but fret about weight and things when I know for a fact it'll be meaningless in reality.

I have a FGLDN Lockwhip tool and it's fucking awesome. However, it's pretty bulky. I need a small 15mm spanner of some kind that has enough leverage and isn't gonna snap on me to carry when I'm out riding. Any suggestions?

I was going to suggest the Cobra 'peanut butter' spanner from Hubjub, but he only has 14 mm ones in stock at the moment.

Events that I'm planning on using them for are the Tour of Flanders sportive, a week's training in the Pyrenees (apparentely we're recreating some 'classic' Vuelta/Tour stages) and then a bunch of BC national/regional road races (mainly in the north so reasonably hilly) and maybe a coast to coast to coast in 17 hours attempt (though I'm thinking the American Classic Carbon 58s may be better over that distance.

The trouble is that I've got myself too caught up in Weenieism and now I can't help but fret about weight and things when I know for a fact it'll be meaningless in reality.

How about the Farsports 24mm CF clincher wheelset- under a kilo, and not that spendy.

How about the Farsports 24mm CF clincher wheelset- under a kilo, and not that spendy.

Wouldn't be my first choice for RVV :-)

For weightweenie bonus points which also actually improve performance, spend the extra for CX-Rays on those Excellight/7900 wheels

That's something I've considered, though the thought of dealing with the far east, shipping/duty etc puts me off along with the worry of the hassle should I have problems with them.

Not to mention the worry of banging skinny full CF rims over Flandrian cobbles. At least with the Shimano they have the ally rim and big manufacturer testing/reputation etc. And I''ve never ridden a carbon braking track before, though I figure it's less sketchy these days with better pads etc.