Any question answered...

I thank you tester. Now continue youur jolly with Henry.

I reserve the right to continue with the piss taking, anybody who buys wheels based on weight deserves it.

I've actually got RS80s on my 585 and they're nice wheels, but my 585 is built for comfort not for speed. If I wanted to go fast, I'd take the extra 200g of the RS80-C50 every day of the week.

So I'm changing my pedals. I got a cheap (although well reviewed) pedal wrench off wiggle for the job. The first one was super tough to get off, and required me to use what seemed like too much strength, but then it worked fine. New pedal went on, and I took it off and put it back on just to check, and it moved nice and easily. So something was a bit dodgy about the old pedals, or some fool (second hand bike) had waaay overtightened them. Now for the second one - it won't budge at all, and I've put loads of force into it and bent the pedal wrench, it won't turn a bloody milimetre. What am I doing wrong? Any tips for how to fix this? I am loathe to go to my LBS and pay somebody to do it for me! Thanks

Are you turning it the right way, i.e. the opposite way to the other one?

Are you turning it the right way, i.e. the opposite way to the other one?

Yeah I think I'm turning it the right way! Tried both ways as I got unsure of myself as it wasn't working. The first one, that worked, I turned anti-clockwise. The second one I was mostly also trying to turn anti-clockwise, but that meant the opposite direction to the other as it's on the other side of course. But yeah couldn't get it to budge in either direction.

Pedals tighten toward the front of the bike, loosen toward the rear.

I have a FGLDN Lockwhip tool and it's fucking awesome. However, it's pretty bulky. I need a small 15mm spanner of some kind that has enough leverage and isn't gonna snap on me to carry when I'm out riding. Any suggestions?

Cheers for the picture freezing, is that the same for every bike? So the left hand pedal (non drive side) should be turned clockwise? I will have another go although like I said couldn't get it to move in either direction. Is there any chance of fucking up the threading on the cranks by trying too hard?

Is there any chance of fucking up the threading on the cranks by trying too hard?

With a standard tool, probably not, and if you do there's always the compensation of a place at the next 'World's Strongest Man' contest.

I would say it is correct for 99.9999999% of the time.

lemonade - if you're really stuck try 'lengthening your tool' by slipping a tube (old seatpost maybe) or ring spanner if really pushed to get a bit more leverage. Don't resort to bashing it with a hamme though as something is bound to go wrong. Or hold the bike so the pedal is over the gas cooker hob (if you've got gas that is, I'm not sure the microwave will help) and get some heat into the pedal / crank area.

What is the bikes situation whilst you are trying to get the pedal off?

It it's in a stand (I personally) find it easier to get a pedal off if the bike is on it's wheels on the ground.

I've stood on a pedal wrench before to get my whole bodyweight to help- give it a bit of welly, AFTER making sure that you are turning the right way.

Is there any advantage of doing up the pedals FT? I've always done them just tight enough but most other people I know tighten them right up.

11.77Nm

^Making it up

^Making it up

Are you talking about your DIY again?

Typical torque for pedal thread is about 360 inch-pounds= 40.67 Newton-Metre .

Still no luck, and the pedal wrench is getting more and more bent. I'm just holding the bike up at the same time as I don't have a stand. The way I got the other one off was by balancing the bike against the wall, squeezing the brake levers real hard so the bike didn't move and the standing on the pedal wrench. Which eventually worked. The same method is not working on the other side. It seems that, unless there is any special method I don't know about, there is no way of getting it off - the wrench is deforming and the pedal is not moving. Amused by the suggestion of the gas hob, but I've got induction. No way that's gonna work. Petrol? Aaaaaargh

Boiling water from the kettle on the crank arm only, to expand it.

Or heat and cool both and hope that the differential expansion breaks the bond.

Leave to soak in penetrating oil

Are you talking about your DIY again?

Pretty much everything, to be honest.

soak in plusgas (rare nowdays), wd40 or diesel is supposed to be excellent penetrating. blow torch on crank arm? maybe not directly after spraying with oil though.

ATF can also work

HTFU can also work

.

How much are evans gonna charge to do this for me? Pretty sure the pedal wrench is now broken beyond repair. My bike has one nice shiny new pedal and one stupid plastic pedal. I am sad.