Locks that work

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  • depending on seatpost length maybe thread the shackle through the seatpost rails (towards the back) and lock the crossbar under the toptube/inside the main frame triangle.

    It won't fit :( not enough room between the saddle and the rails unfortunately. The holster thing, was it one of those fabric horse ones made from seatbelts? I was looking at those but wasn't sure how it work with the longer shackle, but if you reckon it's alright I migh give it a whirl.

  • for what it's worth I've ridden with an m-18 in a belt holster made for a mini-fagh. was only noticeablely heavier for a minute or two then didn't feel it at all really. you have to wear it more on your hip than your arse than the mini fagh though.

    I tried this with my M-18 and it definately works. You wont notice the weight after a short while. Unfortunately it made my back problems worse so I now attach my M-18 to my bike using a home made velcro strap and some cable ties

  • My sewing skills are fucking appalling, ha ha. I can barely patch up a pair of jeans, let alone stitch something together to hold the weight of the lock. Might have a look online and see if I can find anything suitable.

  • My sewing skills are fucking appalling, ha ha. I can barely patch up a pair of jeans, let alone stitch something together to hold the weight of the lock. Might have a look online and see if I can find anything suitable.

    Mine too. I used superglue

  • Good call!

  • Anyone had one of those mini Kryptonite chains ? I saw one in TFG and wasn't sure how secure it would be.

  • I use a Kryptonite New York mini disc lock, £25+shipping: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kryptonite-New-York-Disc-Lock-/280755338344?pt=UK_SportsLeisure_Cycling_BikeLocks_SR&hash=item415e527c68

    I have this krypto disk lock and the kryptonite chain sold with it (as well as other locks) and although it seems well made, I think it is vulnerable, like many of the less secure d-locks, to being hand cropped - fundamentally the shackle is exposed. However, if it was fully packed, a big set of croppers would have a problem getting enough grip/surface area; hence, IMO how it is used is important.

    However, if I wanted to use non lasso type chain my preference would be to use a shutter type lock, rather than a disk lock, where there is no exposed shackle.

  • My sewing skills are fucking appalling, ha ha. I can barely patch up a pair of jeans, let alone stitch something together to hold the weight of the lock. Might have a look online and see if I can find anything suitable.

    Just stick it in your belt... As long as you're not going more than ~5 miles, which i suspect you wouldn't be if not taking a bag, and not out on a serious ride, its fine. I did it every day with an average sized d lock, just loosen your belt off one notch and slip it in... ;) A little care needs to be taken when getting in/out of the saddle but no biggie...

  • Anyone had one of those mini Kryptonite chains ? I saw one in TFG and wasn't sure how secure it would be.

    Have a read of the first post on the first page of this thread, then post 70 on the second page. After that you may decide if a 10mm chain is actually what you really want.

  • Just stick it in your belt... As long as you're not going more than ~5 miles, which i suspect you wouldn't be if not taking a bag, and not out on a serious ride, its fine. I did it every day with an average sized d lock, just loosen your belt off one notch and slip it in... ;) A little care needs to be taken when getting in/out of the saddle but no biggie...

    It's mostly for cycling to uni, which is 3 or so miles away, but I don't want to ruin my belt you see! Also, it gets annoying with it flapping around because the shackle is ridiculously long.

  • Wasn't sure where to post this, but I have a kyrptonite new york m-18 lock (couldn't fit the mini fahg around my frame and stupid deep section rear wheel, ha ha) I was wondering if anyone had any advice for ways to transport this large, heavy lock on my frame, specifically for times when I don't need my backpack for anything else. Carrying the lock around in the bag gives me nice sweat patches and starts to do my weak, sofa ravaged back in after a while.

    Have a look at the lockblocks from twofish. Those might work for the M18.
    Otherwise i don't see any useful options with the M18.

    For all the security it provides, i would never carry a M18. If the Fahg doesn't fit, the NY-Lock would be my next choice. It is a bit thinner then the M18 but still uncroppable and oh so much better to carry.
    Abus locks are much better in that regard, there is a myriad of lock mounts available for anything including the X59.

  • Wasn't sure where to post this, but I have a kyrptonite new york m-18 lock (couldn't fit the mini fahg around my frame and stupid deep section rear wheel, ha ha) I was wondering if anyone had any advice for ways to transport this large, heavy lock on my frame, specifically for times when I don't need my backpack for anything else.

    You could use a Trelock ZB403 3 point bracket for U locks of 14-25 mm diameter. I´m not sure if you can get the bracket in UK, but it´s worth a try. You fix the bracket to the rear carrier: http://www.trelock.de/web/_img/produkte/downloads/ZB_403_Montage_21.pdf
    Edit: You can buy it here: http://www.bicycleworkshop.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b0s93p180

  • I might be missing something, but does that only attach to a rear rack? Because I don't have one..

  • The M-18 is so massive no commercial lock holder is up to the job (including the two fish lock blocks as they are too small to g round the the shackle) the best and only thing you can do if you want to attach it to your bike is to make something yourself.

    I used this thread to as inspiration to make my attachment rig.

    http://www.lfgss.com/thread23502.html

  • Wasn't sure where to post this, but I have a kyrptonite new york m-18 lock (couldn't fit the mini fahg around my frame and stupid deep section rear wheel, ha ha) I was wondering if anyone had any advice for ways to transport this large, heavy lock on my frame, specifically for times when I don't need my backpack for anything else. Carrying the lock around in the bag gives me nice sweat patches and starts to do my weak, sofa ravaged back in after a while.

    buy some strong reusable zip ties and zip tie it to your toptube, or use 3/4 and do it to you chainstays/seatstays in the triangle where they meet the track end (just make sure they're tight enough so the lock doesn't go in your wheel)

  • whats the best way to lock down forks ? I don't need for the wheels since I'll be using two locks.

  • Some kind of locking stem cap or the ball bearing glued into the stem bolt trick or a combination of the two I'd imagine. Assuming you are running threadless that is.

    I suppose in theory if your wheel is locked to your frame and your fork is locked to your wheel, your fork is locked, so locking axle nuts might be your solution, too.

  • As i have just bought a new specialized i have been scouring the net in search of a good lock. This thread has been most informative but there seems to be one mistake in the original post regarding the Abus Granit X-Plus 54

    The link going to bikeradar goes to the review of the Abus Granit Xplus lock from 2009

    http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/accessories/locks/product/review-abus-granit-x-plus-10512

    rather than to the review of the Abus Granit X-Plus 54 review from 2010

    http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/accessories/locks/product/review-abus-abus-granit-x-plus-54-300-39850

    These seem to be different locks with the x - plus 54 lasting much longer than the x-plus from grinder cutting. Below are the quote from the 2 different reviews

    X - Plus (2009 review)
    "Moving onto the power tools, our angle grinder did cut through the Xplus in 59.8 seconds, but under attack from the regular bike thief the Xplus is more than enough"

    X - Plus 54 (2010 review)
    Our portable angle grinder took a whole 4min 43sec to get through both sides of the shackle – that’s just 17 seconds away from a complete pass, and for a portable lock it’s a superb result.

    Not sure if this would make any difference to the overall score of the x - plus 54 but it was confusing me regarding the wrong links

  • Same lock, different lengths. There's the standard 230mm length version, and the 300mm version. Sometimes retailers and reviewers either included the 54 in the title or left it out. At the time, whether they called it the ABUS Granit-X Plus or the ABUS Granit-X Plus 54, it was still the lock called the 54/160 in the ABUS catalogue. I would guess that they used different tools in the second test, or the lock's metal has had more hardening than the previous model. Now though there does need to be some differentiation in what the locks are called, as even the Bordo has a Granit-X Plus model, and its from a different range.

    I'm also sceptical about the second lock test from 2010, as it appears that it would make the Granit-X Plus 54 to be an even stronger lock to break through, than their own monster ABUS Granit Extreme 59, and I am 100% positive that is not true. Even if it had been improved, it wouldn't have been improved that much.

  • These seem to be different locks with the x - plus 54 lasting much longer than the x-plus from grinder cutting. Below are the quote from the 2 different reviews

    X - Plus (2009 review)
    "Moving onto the power tools, our angle grinder did cut through the Xplus in 59.8 seconds, but under attack from the regular bike thief the Xplus is more than enough"

    X - Plus 54 (2010 review)
    Our portable angle grinder took a whole 4min 43sec to get through both sides of the shackle – that’s just 17 seconds away from a complete pass, and for a portable lock it’s a superb result.

    Not sure if this would make any difference to the overall score of the x - plus 54 but it was confusing me regarding the wrong links

    I get the impression that in the earlier test they used a mains-powered angle grinder (~2000W). Those have much better cutting performance and can cut pretty much anything in no time. The battery powered portable ones (~800W) take a lot longer to cut a lock.
    I had older and newer X54 in hands and they seemed identical. The only difference i know of is that the locking mechanism has gotten more sophisticated over time. Current X-plus cylinders have multiple "fake/trap" disks which make them harder to pick.

  • It certainly looks interesting, though more of an art design than by security ideals. The plastic lock-surround at the base looks somewhat unconvincing. I'm looking forward to seeing it reviewed.

  • hi, i used the search but couldn't find an appropriate thread so i thought i would post in here. basically i'm having trouble unlocking my fahg mini. some water got inside and now it's very difficult to pull the shackle away from the rest of the lock. does anyone have any advice? thank you

  • Standard advice, even from manufacturers, is to use WD40 regularly. I would think in this case it's compulsory.

  • Hi Ned, I find putting mine on the radiator for a couple of days helps. Then loads of GT85 or similar. Some proper grease on the moving parts will help too.

    I find that my locks start sticking when they are left out in a frost or in the rain. If I don't dry them out fully afterwards they give me trouble so try to avoid the water!

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Locks that work

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