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• #902
Interestingly I spoke to chainreactioncycles about converting the DT hub that Hugo recommended, solid axle and dismantling the hub etc...
I received this in reply,
*You will be hard pushed to get a 24h track hub and unfortunately we only stock 32h hubs. I gather that you are building a 24 carbon wheel so I have attached a link below to somewhere you may be able to get some.
http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/HUOOLF/on-one-large-flangetrack-hub
The MTB option will not work whatsoever as it would be extremely dangerous to modify something that is not even close to what you are wanting it to do.*
Dangerous? Is it really that dangerous? I would have thought the forces exerted on the hub from disc braking would always exceed those of a track cyclist's thighs?
So, does anyone know of any other 20/24/28 hole track hubs other than suntour superbe and american classic?
Or alternatively does any one know what I would need to convert this to track?
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=8196&utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=Google-Products-UK -
• #903
The MTB option will not work whatsoever as it would be extremely dangerous to modify something that is not even close to what you are wanting it to do.
That is interesting.
I'd like someone informed to give an opinion, but in my head:
- a mtb front hub takes lots of abuse (or maybe it doesn't because of the sus?)
- the disc side of the hub potentially has a lot of force going through it
- a hub is hardly a complex piece of kit, therefore as long as your using it for roughly the same purpose, modifying it in a minor way won't seriously effect it.
The only thing I can possibly think is that a front hub isn't designed to take the majority of a riders weight the way a rear is....and especially at that low a spoke count.
Or alternatively does any one know what I would need to convert this to track?
- A solid track axle and nuts - ie one you can use nuts and not QR - I guess the trouble / hard part is finding one;
- 10mm of spacers (if you have 120mm dropouts); and
- velosolo bolt-on cog.
So, does anyone know of any other 20/24/28 hole track hubs other than suntour superbe and american classic?
Custom.
*Royce
*mack
*goldtech(?) - a mtb front hub takes lots of abuse (or maybe it doesn't because of the sus?)
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• #904
FWIW I agree with all of that hugo. I dont really class it as modifying to be honest. whip in a threaded axle, with spacers and bolts (I have hollow axles which have yet to kill me). Then bolt on a cog.
The only issue, I can think of, is chainline.
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• #905
That's a case of getting the correct spacers though surely?
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• #906
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• #907
Issue solved.
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• #908
Indeed, I cant see any real reason why running a disc hub fixed would/could be dangerous.
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• #909
There we go!
I've got an 88mm rim spare, I might build it just for hipster points as no one seems to want to buy it.
What's the toughest tubular tyre out there?
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• #910
you can get a gatorskin tub?
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• #911
There we go!
I've got an 88mm rim spare, I might build it just for hipster points as no one seems to want to buy it.
What's the toughest tubular tyre out there?
I've looked into that.
Found a small us site that sold some old school sew-ups for commuters etc.
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• #912
you can get a gatorskin tub?
it would appear so:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/continental-sprinter-gatorskin-tubular-tyre/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=products -
• #913
There we go, I can teach myself to wheel-build and put that together.
And they said deep rims were over for fixie skidding- the fools!
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• #914
I think this guy sold panracer commuter sewn-ups. These had a kevlar belt, and were repairable.
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• #915
And they said deep rims were over for fixie skidding- the fools!
Deep aero rims and riser bars. Fuck logic.
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• #916
I don't suppose you saved the URL?
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• #917
Deep aero rims and riser bars. Fuck logic.
It's either that or make an 88mm carbon fibre dream catcher out of the damn thing.
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• #918
I don't suppose you saved the URL?
It'll be at work. One of those tiny sites with a few good deals and tips.
Some of the Tufos are, well, tuf. Expensive too tough.
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• #920
Cheers SF.
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• #921
Thanks for all the help guys...
FWIW I agree with all of that hugo. I dont really class it as modifying to be honest. whip in a threaded axle, with spacers and bolts (I have hollow axles which have yet to kill me). Then bolt on a cog.
The only issue, I can think of, is chainline.
I've seen the threaded axles available from Velosolo website,
http://www.velosolo.co.uk/axle.html
Will it work? I can't believe that this type of axle will be able to convert any type of MTB hub specifically the DT one that Hugo suggested... Am I wrong?
edit: DT hub in question, http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspxModelID=8196&utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=Google-Products-UK
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• #922
Thanks for all the help guys...
I've seen the threaded axles available from Velosolo website,
http://www.velosolo.co.uk/axle.html
Will it work? I can't believe that this type of axle will be able to convert any type of MTB hub specifically the DT one that Hugo suggested... Am I wrong?
edit: DT hub in question, http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspxModelID=8196&utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=Google-Products-UK
As long as the axle diameter is the same it'd be fine. Simply swaping out the quick release is'nt really a modification. People upgrade QRs all the time.
This is a solid fix in my opinion, not a fudge. The pay off being a wider chioce of hub and not having the stress of threadding your hub (only really a common issue with cheaper hubs, but it happens a fair bit).
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• #923
VeloSolo sell ready converted mtb hubs for bolt on sprockets.
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• #924
^Not in 24 hole, the reason why we are discussing this :p
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• #925
Buy a 36 hole and miss every third hole out?
Having 12 extra holes would make it lighter too.
It was more to do with the drilling. A while back the was a cheap deal on one of those ww rims, forget the name maybe ksomething. The problem was the low spoke count. When I googled hubs with the right spoke count lots of MTB ones came up, so I wondered about converting them and googled some more to find that others have done it.
At a guess (and provided you threw £££s) I think you could get a much lighter wheel set with a modified MTB rear and road front. There's more choice and track hubs don't seem to be designed with weight in mind.
That DT one just seemed like a very good deal. If I built a blingy wheelset from scratch I'd seriously consider this root....but mine would be road rather than track.
No idea, ask in the track forum. My thinking was more that you'll end up with a one-sided hub and changing cogs with an Allen key sounds easier in my head.
Maybe, although logically it should be "safer" *, so I can't see why not.