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• #2652
I used a regular 5mm bolt, no need to go to Ikea. I have actually used a threaded one on my new brake so I can put bolts on it to keep the cable in place.
Here's the mod I used
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/odyssey/london-mod-ec024124?utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=froogle&utm_campaign=froogleTurn the adjusters round, file out the brake so the flat bit of the mod is recessed in the end of the brake.
Get a longer bolt to attach the mod to the lever. It should stay in place with just a bolt.
Cut out the cable holder inside the brake.
Drill a 5mm hole just outside where the cable holder was attached.
drill 2x 2mm holes in a 5mm pin. The distance is the same distance between the holes in the mod ie. so the cables go in to the mod straight.
Cut away some of the side of the brake so the pin can move back and forth.Done.
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• #2654
^ where did u get urs for 12? Last time I checked it was like 20? Maybe I was looking at the wrong thing.
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• #2655
I know it's more expensive, but using a dirty harry meant it was easier to make and the lever is far better at modulating road brakes powerfully, I like it.
I've considered using a Shimano Power Modulator so that I can lock up the rear but still have cablepull to be able to lock up the front later on. IE: Halfpull back brake, full pull front and back.
At the moment you have to be super precise or have both come on at the same time, I keep endoing.
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• #2656
^ where did u get urs for 12? Last time I checked it was like 20? Maybe I was looking at the wrong thing.
Click the link in the thread ^
They are not as good as modulating but if you set your brakes up correctly in the first place, ie. the rear a lot stronger than the front, then they're fine.
People make their own for long pull and greater modulating as there was nothing on the market until Paul brought out their levers which are awesome, but £60.
http://www.paulcomp.com/duplexlever.html
Available from BLB. -
• #2657
Is everyone doing the diy thing because they need long-pull levers? If you're running road brakes or mini-vs (ie, short-pull) its probably easier to just go with the promax lever. I really like mine and it was only £12.
:O didn't know about this... Will order one asap methinks, does anyone want to buy a mod off me that I've just ordered?
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• #2658
I bought a Paul one, because considering how bad I am at setting up brakes, setting up modifications would probably result in me not playing for a few months. Soon, soon I shall be back, with brakes galore.
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• #2659
:O didn't know about this... Will order one asap methinks, does anyone want to buy a mod off me that I've just ordered?
Don't you have v brakes?
These are for short pull brakes ie. canti's and road brakes.
Having said that Ryan uses one for his callipers so it might be ok.
If you have a long pull lever, a mod, a bolt and a drill, it's really not that difficult to make a brake.
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• #2660
I've got mini v's on the back and a road caliper on the front, I didn't think they made short pull double levers so i was gonna modify a paul e lever (looks pretty easy). If this promax thing is any good I'll probably just get it to save money. However, looking at the 12 quid price tag isn't that promising :/
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• #2662
Whether or not a lever works also does depends on how you set-up your spring tension I think? TS uses a promax on his regular (non-mini) V's. Seems to work nicely.
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• #2663
Paul lever is nice but £60 is hard to justify for a beginner.
Am I right in thinking some travel agents would get the promax working on long pull v's?
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• #2664
Is the sunlite/pyramid/dimension dual lever not long pull? Hard to tell from the photo, but looks like it?
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• #2665
Paul lever is nice but £60 is hard to justify for a beginner.
Rubbish. If you want one and can afford one, buy one. It doesn't matter about ability.
A travel agent would turn short pull in to long pull, yes.
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• #2666
Wasn't really talking about ability. More how long you might play the sport for.
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• #2667
Still rubbish.
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• #2668
I'm gonna go ahead with the paul e lever + mod, mainly cos it looks a bit stronger than the promax, and looks easy enough to mod (big flat section on lever). Plus I like a good tinker.
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• #2669
Rubbish. If you want one and can afford one, buy one
Are you trying to infect the newbies with your rabid consumerism ?? ;-p
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• #2670
Rabid?
Pot + Kettle?I think you'll find I don't haz paul lever. Do want though obvs.
Kev, how much for rechargeable batteries please?
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• #2671
Yeap complete rubbish, what would be rubbish is if that paul lever was fitted to anything but a set of their motolite brakes with nokon cable holding it together.
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• #2672
I'm gonna go ahead with the paul e lever + mod, mainly cos it looks a bit stronger than the promax, and looks easy enough to mod (big flat section on lever). Plus I like a good tinker.
Are you sure you don't wanna take a look at the promax first Paul? Its plenty strong/chunky, in this case cheap = skimped a bit on the finishing rather than flimsy.
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• #2673
Click the link in the thread ^
My phone didn't show the link... sorry...
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• #2674
Are you sure you don't wanna take a look at the promax first Paul? Its plenty strong/chunky, in this case cheap = skimped a bit on the finishing rather than flimsy.
Hmm... well, if i decide my mod doesn't work I will, but for now I'm just gonna stick to it. Where did you get your front brake caliper from? I seem to remember it's got quite a lot of tyre clearance, might be good for putting a fatter tyre up front for grip.
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• #2675
The fork determines the brake clearance, rather than the caliper, but put a medium or long drop tektro on if you've got the room. I've got a battered standard drop 105 on there at the moment and biggest tyre it will take is 25/28mm depending on brand. I'm swapping to a fork with v bosses next week (plus putting a v-brake plate on the rear). Overall plan is to be running mini-v's all round off one lever from next week.
Ohhh... can't resist the temptation, just bought myself one of those conversion kit. And fucking paypal has twisted my arm again. Paypal is fucking evil.