Spoke Size / Spoke Length Database - What size spokes do I need?

see posts just up the page, advice was to go up .5 rather than down 1.5 - most spokes are in even increments we were told back in April, so you could struggle to get 295s

Thanks rhb... I'll read more and ask less next time :)

Got a good deal on 296mm butted spokes. 45$ for 72 spokes, free shipping.
They're black though, but it is a good deal I think.

Open Sport has an ERD of 610mm if anyone needs it. This is what I have measured and the value that I use.

Tangent: I'm going to be lacing some on one hubs (36f/32r) 3x to mavic open sports. Need 289.8mm spokes for the front, and 292.9mm spokes for the rear. So the closest I'll get is 290mm front, and 292mm rear right?

Some companies do only odd, some only even, some both. So you could get 290 and 293. But basically round down (or up, but I prefer down) to within 2mm.

Front 288, 289, 290, or 291
Rear 291, 292, 293,or 294

So personnaly I'd buy a box of 291s. it'll make building easier.

I laced these last night, 290mm/f and 292mm/r were spot on.

I actually get 293mm rear, and most likely slightly longer for the front (greater distance between flanges). I'm not convinced I have the right hub dinmensions though.

Worried me, as I just ordered some 293s to rebuild my fixed wheels, which have the far deeper cxp33 rims. Turns out the flanges on my new hubs are tiny.

Annoying really. I had one busted bearing, which led to me getting all gorilla like with the spanner and threading the axle. Replacement bearings, along with a replacement axle assembly. Cost as much as a new hub FFS.

I actually get 293mm rear, and most likely slightly longer for the front (greater distance between flanges). I'm not convinced I have the right hub dinmensions though.

Worried me, as I just ordered some 293s to rebuild my fixed wheels, which have the far deeper cxp33 rims. Turns out the flanges on my new hubs are tiny.

Annoying really. I had one busted bearing, which led to me getting all gorilla like with the spanner and threading the axle. Replacement bearings, along with a replacement axle assembly. Cost as much as a new hub FFS.

Is that 293 for my wheel?
with on-one hubs 32h, and Open Sport rims, 3 cross

Is that 293 for my wheel?
with on-one hubs 32h, and Open Sport rims, 3 cross

Yeah, but like I said I not convinced I have the right data for the hubs. I used 608 for the ERD but a mm here or there wont change things that much.
Seems to fit with Konijn's experiance though regarding the 32h front.
I'll have a look around for the dimensions to the On-one hubs.

These?
http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/HUOOLF/on-one-large-flangetrack-hub
62mm flange diameter
31mm C-F (front) 34mm C-F (rear)

Assuming 608 ERD.

In which case I get 64x 294mm spokes
(294.3mm front, 293.8mm rear)

These?
http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/HUOOLF/on-one-large-flangetrack-hub
62mm flange diameter
31mm C-F (front) 34mm C-F (rear)

Assuming 608 ERD.

In which case I get 64x 294mm spokes
(294.3mm front, 293.8mm rear)

Yeah, those are the hubs.
Will see if I can find some nice spokes to go with them.

Those are standard Zenith, System Ex jobbies. Check the bottom of this table for their use with OpenSports, laced 32 3x.
http://www.cyclebasket.com/sitepage.php?id=5
Confirms what I found via SpokeCalc.

For a build like this just go with standard double butted spokes.
http://www.cyclebasket.com/m9b0s454p0/Components_/Spokes_-_Stainless_Steel_Double_Butted_-_Silver_

Those are standard Zenith, System Ex jobbies. Check the bottom of this table for their use with OpenSports, laced 32 3x.
http://www.cyclebasket.com/sitepage.php?id=5
Confirms what I found via SpokeCalc.

For a build like this just go with standard double butted spokes.
http://www.cyclebasket.com/m9b0s454p0/Components_/Spokes_-_Stainless_Steel_Double_Butted_-_Silver_

My god that is cheap for spokes. Thanks.

Zenith hubs laced 3x with 32 ACI DB spokes to open sport rims = Solid budget wheelset.

All the best with the build.

+1 on the ACI DB spokes from cycle basket. Had a fuckup with spoke calc (my fault really) and Martin @ cyclebasket did a lightening turnaround and shipped us out a different size of spoke for no extra charge.
But.
Shop I'd used to build the wheels didn't follow my instructions and built the front from the correct 20p/EA ACI spokes. and the rear from 85p/EA DT Rev/Competition spokes (but later resolved). After 4days of riding, the front ain't moved a millimeter, and the rear has picked up a 1mm weave.
So don't let no shop tell you how great DT spokes are. I would say the 20pence ACI's are at least an equal match to DT Swiss Rev/Competition (not sure which) at more than 4x the price.

Can someone recommend me some good spokes?
I've used dt comp on my last wheels and can't see anything wrong with them. I need them all in one length and I'll be buying a box of 100 or 72.
So, is it worth spending a bit more on something else? (i'll be lacing phils to tb14's so i don't mind spending a bit extra, but not a fortune)
I'm struggling to find any comparison on spokes...please

And another question
Spoke calc gives me this:
Rear: Spoke length right: 294
Front: Spoke length: 294.5
Shall i go down or buy 294mm?

Please excuse my ignorance...

Shop I'd used to build the wheels didn't follow my instructions and built the front from the correct 20p/EA ACI spokes. and the rear from 85p/EA DT Rev/Competition spokes (but later resolved). After 4days of riding, the front ain't moved a millimeter, and the rear has picked up a 1mm weave.
So don't let no shop tell you how great DT spokes are. I would say the 20pence ACI's are at least an equal match to DT Swiss Rev/Competition (not sure which) at more than 4x the price.

If it was DT Revolutions, then the heavily butted nature of the spoke allows it to twist up like crazy (taking the nipple with it). So when you start riding, and the spoke un-twists (not taking the nipple so much as it is now tight against the rim). The spoke effectively threads itself further onto the nipple. throwing the truness of the wheel out. A good builder will make efforts to aviod this, or remove twist before the final true. But if any wheel is going to need a retru after the first couple rides it will be a revolution built wheel.

Can someone recommend me some good spokes?
I've used dt comp on my last wheels and can't see anything wrong with them. I need them all in one length and I'll be buying a box of 100 or 72.
So, is it worth spending a bit more on something else? (i'll be lacing phils to tb14's so i don't mind spending a bit extra, but not a fortune)
I'm struggling to find any comparison on spokes...please

And another question
Spoke calc gives me this:
Rear: Spoke length right: 294
Front: Spoke length: 294.5
Shall i go down or buy 294mm?

Please excuse my ignorance...

Depends what guage spoke you are after. DT comp, Sapim race, Wheelsmith DB 14, Pillar PSR TB 2018, and ACI DB all have the roughly the same butting profile. I've used three of these without really being able to give a solid reason to buy one over the other. Sapims did have a more quality feel about them maybe. But that probably not in a way that would effect the final wheel.

If its a posh wheel go for some lightweight aero spokes. CX-rays, DT aerolites, Wheelsmith AE 15, Pillar PSR X-TRA 1422 etc.

If not then the ACI's will work as well as any. But cheaper.

294mm.

On a side note. I recently dismantled my fixed wheels for a rebuild. The bearings and axle threading had gone on the front, and I'd found some cheap lightweight (relativly speaking)novatecs to replace them with.

As I unthreaded the rear wheel I noticed that the trailing spokes had pulled in the flange metal leaving notable dents. I'm thinking its because I had the tension too low when I first built them (and rode them up a couple mountains). Does that sound right? or are Zenith hubs made of cheese?

294 then, thanks

Are 3 butted dt alpine III or sapim force better then dt comp?

I'm going for a low flange hubs and tb14 not sure how cx-ray's or other fat and flat aero will look on it...probably not so good...

I should proabably ask what would look good, be light and strong?

I'd just go with the ACI, based on price. There really is'nt much difference between them. My favourate are the Sapim Race. But again the price difference is in mo way justified IMHO.

DT comp, Sapim race, Wheelsmith DB 14, Pillar PSR TB 2018, and ACI DB are all roughly the same weight, all look the same, and have comparable strengths.

I'm going to build fixed gear rear using a FRONT Shimano Deore M756 disc hub with a bolt-on cog from VeloSolo.

I've bought the hubs and some rigida DP 18 rims. Now I'm browsing for spokes.

I want the rear wheel to be non-dished and I've worked out chainline etc.

Now the question is, in this Shimano spec sheet, centre to flange distance is documented. Does that sound right. Can I just pop that information, along with the 100mm OLN, 61mm flange diameter and 581mm ERD into a spoke calculator and trust the result I get? I got 277. Anyone with a similar setup who can back that up as accurate?

http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/tech_support/tech_tips.download.-Par50rparsys-0034-downloadFile.html/07%29%20Hub%20Specs.pdf

Thanks very much,
M

A few other questions:

1. Is OLN irrelevant if the wheel isn't dished?
   
2. I actually got 277.8, shall I round down to 277 or up to 278?
   

I've built my own spreadsheet to do it and I get 277 as well, assuming 32 spokes !?

BUT if it's a disc hub, I can't see the flanges being evenly spaced from the centre which is what the table says for the HB-M756.

It's late, I could have messed up, will have another look manjana.

Thanks for your help! I'm 36 hole.

I was a little suspicious about that. It shows even spacing on the Shimano info table as 35.8mm and 35.8mm, but the flanges aren't dead centre!

I'll have to remeasure when I'm back in London.

Shamano's spec cannot be right. Just looking at the picture it's obvious that the mid point between the flanges is not the same as the centre of the hub (half the OLD).

1. Measure from the face of the left over lock nut to the mid-thickness of the left flange.

2. Half the OLD (50mm) minus (1.) gives you the CTFl

3. Measure from the face of the right over lock nut to the mid-thickness of the right flange.

4. Half the OLD (50mm) minus (3.) gives you the CTFr

If you find it awkward measuring, drop the hub vertically into a hole up to the face of the over lock nut and rest a vertical of some sort up against the flange to measure it.

Trust your eyes, not someone else's typing!

Free SLC here if you want it: http://www.wheelingwrinklies.co.uk/WheelBuilder_PE/WBPE.html

Thank you!

Also, if I'm doing an undished wheel build, I believe the centre of the hub would become directly in the centre of the two flanges, so would the CTFr and CTFl be equal to eachother?

possibly, but measure twice cut once as they say!

this SLC is also good > http://lenni.info/edd/