Best cyclocross bike under £1000 and other CX chat

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  • I seen that in the cycle show last year, it also have those half arsed hydraulic/cable disc brake.

  • That bike weighs a fucking ton

  • Halford are shite when it come to bicycles, they may have the bicycles you want, but the mechanic are out of this world.

    almost a decades ago, I brought a bicycle from a reputable chain shop, it's a Kona Smoke that was my first hybrid (well, it's more of a rigid MTB with slick tyres), it was perfectly reliable with no problem whatsoever, until it got stolen.
    Insurance company being diffcuilt to work with, they finally send me a vouncher for Halfords, no problem really, ordered the exact same bicycle (abet newer with better component), but the bicycles was pretty appauling to ride, wheel's not true, brakes is spongy, the derailleur hasn't been indexed properly, and a pretty scary moment in Fulham where my handlebar rotated on the stem clamp resulting me almost hitting a bus.

    It's then I realise it's not because the bicycle was a decent brand, it's because the mechanic actually put it together properly.

    Sound like the box has been damaged during transit, Halfords should take it back as it's their own fault for the carelessness of handling the boxes and replace the damaged bicycle.

    i know a fair few halfords mechanics and bikehut guys who are shit hot at bicycle mechanics. most worked in bike shops before halfords though, it wasn't halfords that trained them.
    quite a lot are still fucking awful, like a lot of evans staff (also know of a few).
    generally, the actual mechanics in halfords are alright, but the PT staff (who may be lumped with bike building, due to time constraints) can be really hit or miss.

  • That bike weighs a fucking ton

    +1. Claim is 22lbs, so even heavier in real life.

    Do you want the bike just for commuting Dammit?

  • It looked much, much better in red.

  • Red is faster too

  • +1. Claim is 22lbs, so even heavier in real life.

    Do you want the bike just for commuting Dammit?

    No, fixed for that.

    Winter road miles and summer off-road, for example south Downs way.

    Just popped into Halfords and they have two in L, but neither are built.

    Malaysian- any chance of a go on yours?

  • Dammit, I'm popping into work in a few minutes to check the stock.

    You should try and get Halfords to build it, give them the illusion that you're willing to buy it now.

  • Right got it all set up and sorted.

    dammit, if you can spring for cab fare to leeds you're welcome to try it. If not, take my word that it is real nice to ride.

    Tyres are a bit draggy on the road but I'll see how they handle the canal en route to work tonight. (Leeds canals, unlike London, are 80% dirt)

    Sram shifting is crisp, hadn't used double tap, was baffling for first minute but find it quite intuitive now. Finishing kit although branded boardman all feels decent, saddle is an arione copy and unlike the first time I tried one actually finding it very comfy.

    Brakes setup with help from here

    http://video.bicycling.com/video/Avid-Technical-Training-BB5-Set

    working good but of course need to bed in.

    Also, I reckon the gearing is better thought out for a mixture of road and off road miles than the dale, which I though looked a bit under geared.

  • I've asked the ocker branch of Halfords to get me one to try.

  • "If it helps, the measurement from the top of my saddle to the centre of my BB is 78cms.

    I don't think I'd want the seatpost too much further, maybe 2-3cm more would be ok.

    Reach from centre of saddle clamp to centre of bars is 73cm, to the hoods is about 86cm."

    81 to 82 centre of BB to top of saddle, and 68 centre of post to centre of bars, across both my fixed commuter and my road bike.

    Interesting- I did not know that they would be so similar (feel very different).

    Sounds like it might be a bit long for me.

    How long is the stem?

  • The stem is far too long, it's ridiculous. Also the seatpost has above average lay back. Think the first, and probably only upgrades will be a shorter thomson stem and possibly inline post.

  • Boardman website says the stem is a 120mm.

  • Well what's the deal for CX bikes? feels like weight is too far over front wheel with this... thinking a 90mm stem will feel much better....

  • I don't know, CX is a whole new world for me.

    Having spent some time with the tape measure I'm sure the L is going to be the one to go for, mainly as the M is too small and the XL is too large however.

  • My CX bike is setup pretty much the same as I have setup road bikes in the past. I love blasting around off road in the drops at 18mph* and the road position works for me.

    Don't think that is the norm though as bars are typically set higher with an angled up stem.

    *speed limited by 58GI gearing I could clearly go way faster with gears

  • So, the stem is 125mm. Thinking a 100mm stem and an inline post and bike will be perfect fit.

    Really enjoying riding it, it's fast on the roads and pretty good off them. Climbing fairly short/steep/rooty/dusty climb earlier on it absolutely flew up. Downhill on drops will stake some getting used to... the brakes are great though, 1 finger is all you need for a pretty abrupt stop.

    One thing is the headset keeps coming loose, I don't have a torque wrench and am a bit wary of pulling the star nut out of the fork, does this happen alot with carbon steerers? also do I need to be v careful with the stem bolts on the steerer? (forgive my ignorance, always been a steel or alu rider in the past)

  • A torque wrench is your friend for carbon steerers. Oh and you shouldn't have a star nut in a carbon steerer, it should be a bung.

  • What would people say this frame, fork, crankset and brakeset are worth: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170628426889&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

  • A torque wrench is your friend for carbon steerers. Oh and you shouldn't have a star nut in a carbon steerer, it should be a bung.

    Yeah found out its a bung this morning... it keeps edging it's way out of the steerer, I tapped it back down but it keeps coming up. Is there a better solution to one of these, or do people secure them with something? (like an adhesive...?)

  • Dammit, just buy a fucking bike. Jeez.

    Malaysian, could you post the geometry of your large Boardman?

  • What would people say this frame, fork, crankset and brakeset are worth: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170628426889&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

    cannondales are not always the answer and that is too small for you

  • I tried the 58 and the 56 CAADX and of the two the 56 fitted, not the 58

  • Buy the boardman, it really is that much fun to ride, it's pretty sexy too.

    I'll try measure it tomorrow... if it helps i measured these for dammit, anmd I'm 6'2:

    the measurement from the top of my saddle to the centre of my BB is 79cms.

    I don't think I'd want the seatpost too much further, maybe 2-3cm more would be ok.

    Reach from centre of saddle clamp to centre of bars is 73cm, to the hoods is about 86cm

    I think the TT is 56cm and the ST is 55 CT... but will check.

  • Yeah found out its a bung this morning... it keeps edging it's way out of the steerer, I tapped it back down but it keeps coming up. Is there a better solution to one of these, or do people secure them with something? (like an adhesive...?)

    The mating surface of the bung should be knurled. When you nip it shut it should give an interference fit which should be sufficient to provide the anchor to set your headset tension. No glue!

    Buy the boardman, it really is that much fun to ride, it's pretty sexy too.

    I think the TT is 56cm and the ST is 55 CT... but will check.

    Id appreciate that.

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Best cyclocross bike under £1000 and other CX chat

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