Help me make my polo mallet

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  • Excellent, I will use screws, sounds easy

  • Alrighty then, I have my 3Pmh and my perro poles.
    Where did I see the posts about cutting the perro poles? There was something about the line at the bottom of these poles?

    Assuming these directions are the best way to build it?
    http://3pmh.de/

  • Always cut the knobby bit (and below) off of the Perro Poles.

    If you then cut the top section off (leaving the thin bit) you will have a "whippier" pole that will be more flexible and be less prone to denting, but it will bow/banana sooner and will be less strong overall.

    If you cut the thin section off (so your pole is as wide as possible) you will have a "sturdier" pole, that will be less flexible and more prone to denting (from "whippy" poles), but will bow/banana less quickly and will be stronger overall.

    I do the second option, but tried the "whippy" approach for a fair old while.

    Yeah, cut the pole, insert the dowel (you may have to shave a little off or source wider dowel depending on whether you're going whippy or sturdy), drill your head to the pole width (don't go all the way through the bottom), insert into head, countersink bottom, pilot hole, drill in screw, pilot hole the top sideways bit (HSS bit as it's going through metal), drill in screw, done.

    Add Gorilla Glue for that "mallet for life" feeling (cannot be taken apart).

  • Perfect, thanks very much Jon. Gorilla glue purchased.
    Are you gluing the dowel in and the screws?

  • Yeah, everything, Gorilla Glue expands (and sticks), etc.

  • This method is honestly the quickest and easiest I have ever used.
    No metal drilling at all. Made one on Sunday in about 20 minutes.

    I got a length of threaded rod with a nyloc nut on the end and dropped this down the pole to ensure the nut was wedged well.
    Didn't like the idea of just letting a tight fit on the wedge deal with the head twisting so I filed 4 teeth into the end of the pole.
    Then I drilled the head only on one side so that the teeth bite into the hdpe held under pressure by the bolt which I countersunk.
    The fit is very tight and the teeth grip well into the pipe.

    A few months down the line and no twisty-twisty.

  • I have four mallets to make up so I'm gonna try that method, Joel, looks well neat and tidy... What diameter bolt is that? It's a flat head bolt so no need for countersinking, right?

    Who'll lend me a drill for an afternoon? Mine's still a hostage with the evil ex-wife...

  • TS, you'll want to use M6 bolts and nuts, it's perfect for that method on the Perro poles.

    I got countersunk 100mm M6 hex bolts from Clerkenwell Screws for it. You'll also need an M6 rod to pull the nut through ( I got one from Leyland)

  • Excellent... Cheers, John...

  • But what's to stop sideways play?

    TS you can use the drill at mine of you like. Can't lend it as it's City Gents.

  • I'm guessing you drill your pole-hole to make it a really tight fit then as you tighten the bolt down it'll force the pole to mate with the bolt and make it fit perfectly... No?
    #sciencebit
    Re: Drill... I'll try and borrow my neighbour's...

  • Or if anyone's near Higate and wants to collect my cordless DeWalt that would be amazing...

  • Precisely, I make the top hole too small on purpose, then force the pole through, for a tight fit. Then on the bottom make some notches with a hacksaw (or file it down like JOL). That will stop it spinning. Also, tightening the bolt every now and then is also a good idea, as the pressure from that holds the whole thing together.

  • File the teeth. Bolt pressure keeps the pipe nice and straight.

  • *adds bolt pressure to TS lexicon*

  • Good band name.

  • don't get him started. + he'll only say he came up with it and you were just listening in.

  • Pfffffff!!!

  • My Perro del Mal Mallet:

    I chopped the top end to my desire measure, left the other end as it comes, thin and with the slot, which it sits perfectly once you fit the black pipe (in my case).

    I've got a rounded japanese chopstick - important remark, because the cheap chineses I had are square tape/type so not valid for this.

    Dropped inside the hollow mallet 'til you can see it popping out through the pole/pipe end. Tighten/fit it well, and cut shallowly.

    Screw a screw of your taste (obvs better long and strong) that will expand the wooden bit (chopstick) inside and so... inamovible.

    Light, solid, simple.


  • HA @ SPRING BREAK BLOG.

    Adam finally was shown how to build a mallet.

  • diapo, with time on the court, the head may spin.... that is way JOl file down some teeth in the pole.
    other people just screw the head to the pole

  • Could be someone's done this before but it's new to me.

    It's not as light as the black pipe and I could probably replace the blue with black but it makes for a nice thing to have for a casual throw-in. The white takes a pretty hefty beating and the blue is nice and light. I could probably have used a bigger drill bit to chop the weight off it but it was a bit of an afterthought. I only started playing last year and that was with a wooden handle.

    Only took about 15min to make.

  • both things have been done already. The 2 rings, I think the first one was Hassan during league 1, later on a lot people try. the big hole between the two ring, people call it ECM (European Cheater Mallet) and the actual tendence is to not play with them, for more info about this point please ask, Mark, Max and Snoops

    oz. where do you play?

  • Isn't there a thread called modular mallet head design or something similar about exactly the idea of a seperate body and replaceable ends?

    I like the idea (I still use a mallet with two caps), but in practice a one peice is going to be cheaper easier and probably lighter, and replacing heads isn't so hard...

    I'm thinking my ti mallet with modular head for throwins and lighter mallets for cometitions...

  • cometitions

    Like... :]

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Help me make my polo mallet

Posted by Avatar for Stef @Stef

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