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• #477
Saucer of milk, yay or nay?
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• #478
I personally think he should just get a hasselblad and be done with it
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• #479
Well, blow me, such a thread* does *already exist!
https://www.lfgss.com/thread6107.html
i think hippy might be in town at the moment too -
• #480
I personally think he should just get a hasselblad and be done with it
this? -
• #481
If you want genuine pocketability, S95. If you think you might at some point want to use a 'proper' flash, Gxx.
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• #482
get an ep1/gf1 instead.
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• #483
i just need a small-ish dslr that i can play around with
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• #484
i just need a small-ish dslr that i can play around with
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• #486
I always keep an S95 in my pocket, great little camera.
I have a D60 for when I'm prepared to carry a camera. It's days might be numbered though if the X100 lives up to all the hype.
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• #487
Just ordered a new lens for myself, a nikon 16-85mm. My old 18-70mm is a bit fucked, nice chuck out the side and the autofocus is dead, but it still works as a manual focus lens. Anyone interested in buying it off me for the cheap?
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• #488
Does anyone know of anywhere good to buy a plain white backdrop? Preferably within walking distance of Tottenham Court Road.
I've been asked to take some pictures for work that need one and they have offered to buy one that I can walk away with as payment. I was looking at a budget of around £80.
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• #489
^ Just me who read that at "I thought about a girlfriend, but got myself a Sony Nex3 instead"?
Yes.
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• #490
Does anyone know of anywhere good to buy a plain white backdrop? Preferably within walking distance of Tottenham Court Road.
I've been asked to take some pictures for work that need one and they have offered to buy one that I can walk away with as payment. I was looking at a budget of around £80.
Calumet Photographic
99-103 Drummond St
London NW1 2HJ
020 7380 1144White backdrops in stock, in various widths (2.72m x 11m arctic white is around £50 squid) was in there last week buying some chroma green, 3 minutes walk from the top end (Euston Road) of Tottenham Court Road.
P.S. it's near impossible to struggle down the road with a 2.72m roll of paper, I usually buy the cheaper 1.35m rolls, sling them in a taxi and tape two lengths together for 2.70m width.
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• #491
Fantastic! Only tricky bit is that I don't have a stand, which is annoying because I don't think I can get them to spend more money.
I found this
but I'm not 100% sure its the best option
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• #492
Fantastic! Only tricky bit is that I don't have a stand, which is annoying because I don't think I can get them to spend more money.
It's a roll of paper not a particle accelerator !!
1) find a wall.
2) get some duct tape.
3) tape paper to wall.
Here's a (crappy) green screen I shot last week, paper from Calumet (the 1.35m width) - stuck to the wall with tape:
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• #493
^Shopped. You can tell by the pixels.
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• #495
@Olly398, sorry I missed your post. Glad you like the GF-1.
I find the JPEGs come out punchy but with slightly too much contrast and can be on the dark side (I'm getting that with yours, though could be my monitor at work).
When you use RAW in terms of detail it is much better, but personally I do find I need to adjust the levels. It's a shame Panasonic couldn't get the levels in RAW closer to what most people would want, it's my biggest gripe with the GF-1 and on this compares badly to the 5D I had before.
Overall though, still very happy so far.
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• #496
It's a roll of paper not a particle accelerator !!
Cheers! I went with getting paper from Calumet, and the very clever runner that grabbed it for me picked up a pole for hanging it from to light stands, just had an amazing day taking pictures of people at work.
I'll get some of the pictures up online once the final ones have been published, but in the meantime here is a little sneak peak
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• #497
This is handy, and free:
http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/pocket-light-meter/id381698089?mt=8 -
• #498
need some advice.
I'm meant to be taking some photos of a group ride this evening.
I have the following equipment but very limited experience etc.
pentax ist DSLR
50mm 1.7 prime (manual focus)
28mm 2.0 prime (manual focus, but allows ttl metering)
Some kind of kit zoom lens which i've never really used (auto focus) which came with the camera.I will be taking most shots at the top of hills where they're slowest to give myself a bit of a chance.
What would people recommend as far as set up etc goes? use the zoom as the autofocus will help? Tripod? use the built in flash (which i've never succesfully used previously so now i forget is even there)
any advice much appreciated.
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• #499
Do you understand aperture and depth-of-field, shutter speed, ISO and how they work together?
If not, read some basic stuff pon the Interwebz., e.g. http://jfletcherphoto.wordpress.com/2009/02/20/the-exposure-tiangle-in-beginner-speak-the-end-of-auto-mode/
Built-in flash nearly always looks rubbish so I would avoid that. A few very simplistic tips: if you want to capture some motion blur in the riders, a shutter speed of anything between 1/15 and 1/60 should be about right, depending on how fast they're moving, of course. If you want to capture a lot of people sharp front-to-back in the frame then you will need a smaller aperture, say f/10 - f/16, but again, this will depend how deep the group you want to capture is, and how many you want in focus. If you want to single out riders and throw the rest out of focus, you will need bigger apertures, e.g. f/2.8 - f/4. How much light there is available will determine how much you have to ramp up the ISO (sensor sensitivity) to achieve your desired aperture and shutter speed combo. The payoff with high ISO is noise/grain on the images.
Hope that helps a little.
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• #500
Do you understand aperture and depth-of-field, shutter speed, ISO and how they work together?
If not, read some basic stuff pon the Interwebz., e.g. http://jfletcherphoto.wordpress.com/2009/02/20/the-exposure-tiangle-in-beginner-speak-the-end-of-auto-mode/
Built-in flash nearly always looks rubbish so I would avoid that. A few very simplistic tips: if you want to capture some motion blur in the riders, a shutter speed of anything between 1/15 and 1/60 should be about right, depending on how fast they're moving, of course. If you want to capture a lot of people sharp front-to-back in the frame then you will need a smaller aperture, say f/10 - f/16, but again, this will depend how deep the group you want to capture is, and how many you want in focus. If you want to single out riders and throw the rest out of focus, you will need bigger apertures, e.g. f/2.8 - f/4. How much light there is available will determine how much you have to ramp up the ISO (sensor sensitivity) to achieve your desired aperture and shutter speed combo. The payoff with high ISO is noise/grain on the images.
Hope that helps a little.
Saucer of milk table number 2