Another example, taking advantage of sales, TFG is on SALE for loads of NJS bits (colored)... you just need to utfB ;D
A point to note is that once components are coloured/anodised, they lose their NJS accreditation. (If that's what you want other than simply being Japanese.) They'll still have the stamp though...
The three main areas to consider (I found) when building an NJS bike are the rear hub (some frames take a narrower 110mm hub) the rail spacing in the saddle (it may be 30mm instead of 44mm) and the size of the seatpost. 27.2mm is the most common but they may be 26.8mm or 27.0mm.
Also, the only NJS approved rims (available new) are Araya Gold 16B which are tubs and have to be laced in a 36 cross 4 pattern - all spokes are 305mm. (It's worth noting that although Campagnolo produced an NJS accredited groupset, their 'Keirin' rims were never NJS.)
Of course, you could always go for something totally different, like an Arrow (if you can find one.)
A point to note is that once components are coloured/anodised, they lose their NJS accreditation. (If that's what you want other than simply being Japanese.) They'll still have the stamp though...
The three main areas to consider (I found) when building an NJS bike are the rear hub (some frames take a narrower 110mm hub) the rail spacing in the saddle (it may be 30mm instead of 44mm) and the size of the seatpost. 27.2mm is the most common but they may be 26.8mm or 27.0mm.
Also, the only NJS approved rims (available new) are Araya Gold 16B which are tubs and have to be laced in a 36 cross 4 pattern - all spokes are 305mm. (It's worth noting that although Campagnolo produced an NJS accredited groupset, their 'Keirin' rims were never NJS.)
Of course, you could always go for something totally different, like an Arrow (if you can find one.)