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• #1703
wow that looks good i like a good grain http://www.flickr.com/photos/46287385@N03/ but is it as good as the classic b+w grain
not too sure i'm afraid, I've only tried a handful of films since i broke away from digital and xp2 is the only c41 i've tried
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• #1704
To my eyes at least any c-41 b+w doesn't look as good as a gelatin silver film like HP5. The grain's not as nice and it seems less contrasty.
Totally subjective of course.
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• #1705
Related: I have a roll of HP5 35mm in the Trip at the moment.
Where's a good place to get it processed and scanned to CD? And yes by good I basically mean cheap, unless the quality will suffer significantly.
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• #1706
snappy snaps?
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• #1707
I just got an ok negative scanner if you wanted stuff on disc, canoscan 9000
it can do 35mm and medium format
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• #1708
Nefarious - another voice joining the praise for the Forth Rd Bridge shot. Lovely.
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• #1709
Nefarious - another voice joining the praise for the Forth Rd Bridge shot. Lovely.
Cheers!
Now for the obligatory flickr mention.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mah_shoesI'd also like to mention that this thread has got me psyched to get some B&W on the go!
Too many good shots by people in here. -
• #1710
To my eyes at least any c-41 b+w doesn't look as good as a gelatin silver film like HP5. The grain's not as nice and it seems less contrasty.
Totally subjective of course.
ive used westminster sudios there great because the print analouge but quite expensive i'm going to use these guys they seem like good prices i will send of a couple of rolls and let you no the results
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• #1711
does anyone devolop there own here's a budget option http://caffenol.blogspot.com/2010_03_01_archive.html
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• #1712
Caffenol-C sounds like something out of a Thomas Pynchon book.
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• #1713
does anyone devolop there own here's a budget option http://caffenol.blogspot.com/2010_03_01_archive.html
I love the idea of this, and I'd give it a try, but things like D76 are only £2 for the powder to make a litre.
Good find though. I like the sound of getting useable negs from lots of different iso's.
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• #1714
I thought I'd wade in here for some advice as I have recently picked up my first analogue camera: a Nikon FM.
I've only ever used a digital point and shoot before, but I lost it on a recent cycle tour in Germany.
I'm going to the Berlin 6-day event this weekend and want to take some photos. What kind of film should I use for my best chance of some reasonable shots? I don't have a flash and I probably won't be that close to the action.
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• #1715
It really depends on what you are looking for from your photos.
Colour or black and white? Action shots? What sort of light do you anticipate.
The crappy weather and light I've experienced recently has just led me to buy some delta 400, which I am eager to try out. -
• #1716
you will need 1600-3200 asa to shoot anything handheld inside the velodrome, don't expect to get anything but blurred riders when they are on the track
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• #1717
Just got two rolls of film back from my Olympus Trip 35. Mixed results but some really interesting ones, seems to be very much an outside daylight camera.
Also Jessops is better than Boots, it would seem.
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• #1718
you will need 1600-3200 asa to shoot anything handheld inside the velodrome, don't expect to get anything but blurred riders when they are on the track
^^
Pack some Neopan 1600, push it 1 stop if you need more.Why not use a fast standard or wide angle lens if you have one and concentrate on what's going on around you to capture the atmosphere of the event. You might not be able to get trackside, but you will be surrounded by interesting punters, riders, bikes, maybe the "pit" area or whatever? All good camera fodder.
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• #1719
Some stuff I shot on neopan 1600 at an Afro Cuban All Stars Gig
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• #1720
I've only used a couple of rolls, so not enough to have an educated opinion, but neopan 1600 seems really good to me.
I'm learning the hard way that if you are going to take photos indoors in poor light, then your results are going to be compromised. This it seems is when I take most of my pictures.
Learing to read the light that is availible is half the game it seems. I have often found myself shooting everything wide open at f2 and the shutter speed is creeping down to 1/30 or 1/15 and I just know that I cannot shoot handheld pictures of people without a lot of motion blur on that basis.
Push developing and faster films help but only by a couple of stops. When I can get enough light to stop down to about f4 and use 1/60 or 1/125, I know my results will be that much better. This has led me to using mostly at least 400 asa in the winter or inside during the day and at least 3200 or 6400 at night.
^ I like the violin picture.
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• #1721
First day in a new darkroom today, this was the only half decent print that was dry by the time I was leaving.
35mm Tri-x @ iso 800 -
• #1722
Some stuff I shot on neopan 1600 at an Afro Cuban All Stars Gig
What development were these given if you don't mind me asking?
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• #1723
I want a fast 35mm for my M. I think I am going to buy the Voigtlander 35mm f1.4f "Nokton".
There does not seem to be anything else for the money that is as fast. Am I missing anything?
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• #1724
No - its a great lens - I have one (SC rather than MC)!
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• #1725
just found a great little video on the guardian - the dying art of the photographic darkroom
no adverts: http://www.fotosidan.se/cldoc/59448.htm
with adverts, but in english: http://www.guardian.co.uk/artanddesign/video/2011/jan/14/photographing-death-darkroom-video
wow that looks good i like a good grain http://www.flickr.com/photos/46287385@N03/ but is it as good as the classic b+w grain