Track or SingleSpeed Cranksets

Chainline will be off.

Here is the best out there right now - http://www.rotorbike.com/nueva/ingles/3DTrack.htm

The inner ring on a double will give you a 40-41mm chainline which is not too bad, the outer ring will be closer to 48mm

Are there any decent external bearing options apart from the Omniums? Any good reason not to use a road crank?

I bought a pair of these when they were in the sale at ~£30 a while ago. A 1-2mm spacer behind the sprocket would give a perfect chainline (PM me if you have one...). But I'd rather make do with a slightly off chainline rather than faffing around with Square Taper again. Plus I think they look pretty good...

i think MT has a solution for external bearings non-SRAM BB/crank, ask him

Blackspire Crankset

Blackspire Chainrings

FSA Gimondi chainset

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/components/chainset/product/gimondi-chainset-42767

They're a bit poorly made, mine's not straight after a while.

could be just my model though.

Do you mean the chainring?

Yes, the chainring, sorry.

it 'gone out of true' to put it simply.

Hello there, looking for a 150mm crankset for my new project, does anyone have any clue of where to find these? thanks a lot!

BMX or kids cranks

Hello there, looking for a 150mm crankset for my new project, does anyone have any clue of where to find these? thanks a lot!

Theres a small company that specialise in, amongst other things, grinding down crank arms and drilling/threading new holes for the pedals. You need to be able to loose say 20-30mm so the original hole is removed. But that wont be a problem when producing 150mm cranks.

I'll see if I can find them.

Found em.
http://www.highpath.net/highpath/cycles/shorten.html

Just pick the crank you want and presto.

thanks smallfurry! I was trying to measure my inside leg length by myself and got an approximate 75cm so will need 165mm cranks only, still it doesn't sound like 5 mm would do much difference and i really feel uncomfortable with the 170 ones...should i just try 165? haven't got muuuch money to burn on cranksets at the moment...

I have a similar inside leg (30") and actually ride 170, although my new bike will have 165. Don't really see why either would be a problem, you're not exactly freakish. Some people seem to notice a massive difference, some none, but 165 sounds about right to me. You could always try something cheap second hand before you splash out.

most of the difference are really in your head.

thanks smallfurry! I was trying to measure my inside leg length by myself and got an approximate 75cm so will need 165mm cranks only, still it doesn't sound like 5 mm would do much difference and i really feel uncomfortable with the 170 ones...should i just try 165? haven't got muuuch money to burn on cranksets at the moment...

I have a similar inside leg (30") and actually ride 170, although my new bike will have 165. Don't really see why either would be a problem, you're not exactly freakish. Some people seem to notice a massive difference, some none, but 165 sounds about right to me. You could always try something cheap second hand before you splash out.

I too have a 30" inside leg (well 30 1/4"). I calculate my ideal crank length to be 162mm.

But like most short people have mostly used the easily availible 170, and get on OK with it. This is what I have on the CX/commuter/hack.
My fixed has 165's which are alot easier for my stumpy legs to spin, without my upper body starting to bounce.
My SS MTB has 175's which gives me more leverage on climbs, and over obstacles.

IMHO the 5mm is very noticable. But depending on the type of cycling you are doing you can vary your crank length to positive effect. Although for pedaling at constant cadense (ie road cycling) the correct length for your leg measurement is probably worth hunting down.
http://www.machinehead-software.co.uk/bike/cranks/cyclist_crank_length_calculator.html

Slightly off topic. But I'm gong with Campag 11spd for my roadie, and am in two three minds about cranks.

option 1: HTFU, and buy a 170mm compact crank groupset, saving money, effort, and time.

option 2: Buy a groupset, sell the cranks (sans rings), buy some 165mm cranks, sell the rings, and have a better fitting drivechain. Which is a faff.

option 3: By the drivetrain component by component, meaning no massive single payment. But likely meaning more cost and a lot more time/effort.

TBH option 1 is very tempting (if I can clear the funds), but I am planning on taking this bike on some epic rides (maybe 540km if I dare), so fit is everything.

Option 2. You seen Planet X? Good Campag deals!

Having done some research. It looks like a standard 10 speed crankset will work with the 11 speed drivechain. It appears the difference in the 11 speed chain is mostly external thickness, so that the cassette can have closer spockets.

In which case a Rotor 3D, seems a good choice. As they do a wide range of lengths. So maybe option 2 or 3 afterall.

Apols for derail. Back to track/SS folks.

I'll take it back off topic, to confirm that a 10 speed crankset works with an 11 speed drivechain. It's what I'm running on my Colnago.

Cheers for the confirmation.

Its gunna cost more, and take a bit more time to build up. But currently, I'm thinking record/chorus drivechain + Rotor 3D, 165mm, 50/36 cranks , and a 11-25 cassette. I think, looking at the GI table, that even with the extra gear overlap, and slightly reduced range. I'll get more use out of a 36t ring then a 34t.

Might even get some nice CNC'd brake calipers if I'm not buying the complete group. But thats another derail.

We so need a Smallfurry current project thread.

I find 50/36 a much more usable set-up than 50/34. I'd stick with the Campag skeleton brakes if I were you, they work well and are fairly light. I bought a pair of the Planet-X CNC'd calipers and they sucked arse, completely lacking in power when you needed it.

We so need a Smallfurry current project thread.

I dunno. I quite like spreading myself around ;)

Top tip with the brakes. PX would have been high on the list.