Bike stickers and decals

I have the same "problem". Most sticker manuafacturers charge lots of $$$

I had one guy who said that he had a vinylcutter, but he wasn't able to read my EPS files and also couldn't get the decals right with Coraldraw files.

Now I ended up ordering trandfer paper / decal paper for a good laser colour printer at my office. I think it will arrive tomorrow and then I will run a few tests.

Finally, I should have a nice set of water slide decals.

After printing I probably have to "seal" them with clearcoat, cut them out by hand, apply to the frame and clearcoat again.
I hope it works out well.
The paper at not cheap, but if it works well, it's a very attractive way to reproduce decals.
I'll show it off in Current Projects, later.

http://progettopistavintage.blogspot.com/

Im looking for some Bianchi decals from 70's, my friends nearly completed a restoration and the only un-original sticker is the Bianchi on the cross frame.

Im looking for some Bianchi decals from 70's, my friends nearly completed a restoration and the only un-original sticker is the Bianchi on the cross frame.

http://www.hlloydcycles.com

He has some Bianchi ones in stock - not sure what you need though.

?

As we're on the subject of decals, anyone know where to get British Eagle decals? I've tried all the usual subjects linked here to no avail. Failing that anyone got any images of British Eagle decals/headbadge etc, I can knock some up myself but google doesn't throw up much source material, and I'd rather save the time and just buy them.

Also, anyone seen a Reynolds 453 decal for sale?

I'm hoping to get my Elswick Hopper Rimini powder coated in the next few months which is making me wonder, is there anywhere I could get replacement decals or anyone who could reproduce them?

Try http://www.hlloydcycles.com/pdflistlatest.pdf this will get you the H Lloyds catalogue, check for both Elswick and Hopper, you'll find them both there. I've just bought some replacement 531 stickers ofr my wife's Nigel Dean and I'm about to get some Super Vitus stickers for my latest frame. Fast service, reasonable prices.

Gordon

Give Ricky at AW Cycles in Reading a call, that guy can get anything and if he can't, it probably don't exist!

Hi,
Anyone have experience of using a stoved clearcoat over Cyclomondo's decals? Mercian, Bob Jackson and Argos cure their clearcoat in an oven, are these decals suitable for this treatment?
Tried emailing Cyclomondo, no reply, apparently this is common.
Regards
Harry

Heard back from Cyclomondo, decals not recommended for stoved clearcoat. Primarily suited to car type paint systems.

Cheers for keeping us updated, that info will come in handy in the future.

Here are the instructions which come with Cyclomondo transfers.

They don't mention oven baked finishes.

I had a bike painted that way last year using his decals and it came out fine.

Application Instructions:

*Thanks for purchasing Cyclomondo’s decals and hopefully together we can restore, refurbish *and rescue many beautiful vintage frames.

The 1st rule in applying the decals is do not soak them in water.

The 2nd rule is do not soak them in water!

*These decals have an adhesive which is water resistant and are basically peel and stick **Saying that, there are some important processes that you should adhere to so as to make *this a smooth exercise.

*Trim any excess of the decal, or separate individual decals that share the same sheet, with *scissors making sure you don’t cut into the printed area.

*Then, clean the area of the frame with a dilute solution of water and detergent (common **dishwashing liquid is fine – just a couple of drops in a bowl or cup/glass) and wipe clean *with cotton.

Now you have to make the choice of whether you do a dry application or wet application.

*A dry application is where the decal goes onto a dry frame. The benefits of this method are **in that the frame can be clear-coated (if you wish but not necessary) without waiting a long **period for any moisture to dry from under the decal. The disadvantage is that you only get *one chance to get it right, as once stuck, the decal can’t be moved.

*A wet application allows a more forgiving application technique, but if you are to apply a **clear-coat, then you should wait a lengthy time after application so as the clear-coat isn’t *spoiled by residual moisture.

*If you encounter any problems peeling the decal off the backing paper try using a sewing *needle or fine tweezers to pull up one edge of the decal.

*For a wet application, wet the frame area again with the same dilute solution of water/ **detergent so as it’s pretty wet and then peel the backing paper off the decal (usually **marked ‘Avery’) and then stick the decal onto the frame. Being wet and slippery allows the **decal to be slid into position if it is not straight and also allows any trapped bubbles to be *squeezed out. The water/detergent solution does not harm the adhesive on the decal – in
fact it will probably be stuck firmer once everything is dry.

*It is important to not have the decal ‘grab’ or stick in the wrong position. I use the finest **vinyl available and any thinner and it potentially distort like cling wrap. Thin vinyl is essential **to imitate the quality of the tricky water slide transfers and also the pressure rub application **type as well. The decals are sound and strong, wont break or crack, as long as they don’t *have to be removed from the frame due to bad positioning on a dry paint surface.

*For decals that have transparent application tape over them – such as you would find with a **series of letters such as a down tube decal saying COLNAGO or MERCKX for example, then **application is basically the same process plus one more step. Wet the frame area, peel off **the ‘Avery’ backing paper, apply the decals which are attached to transparent application **tape to the frame and position, smooth out and let sit for several hours. When confident that **decals are stuck, then grab the corner of the application tape and peel at an acute angle **away from the frame leaving the decals installed. If there are any air bubbles that may be **trapped (unusual), if they cannot be massaged out of the decal then a simple pin prick to the centre of the bubble, followed by a squeezing out of the air and a smoothing will cure the problem.*

*The decals are heat foil printed in a dry print process which makes them color fast and UV **safe which in comparison to normal commercial inkjet printing is near ideal. Clear coating is *safe but not essential as long as the usual guidelines are followed and heavy solvents aren’t
used in the preparation. Thin mist of clear, followed by a heavier coat.

*If you have used a wet method of application, allow at least a week for any moisture to *disappear before clear-coating.

Hope this helps!

*I am always available at gtsoftley@ozemail.com.au for any distress calls!*

Greg Softley (Cyclomondo)

I'm considering a restoration project but need replica decals made up (I can't for the life of me find any online). Any suggestions?

Have you tried http://www.hlloydcycles.com/ ?

Try colourtech in crayford... sprays frames for everyone so may be able to help or point you in the right direction.

Atlantic boulevard maybe worth a shout, details on google.

Say you bought a bike/frame like a Colnago that had no decals on the original paint job. And you thought it should have some. Can you apply them on top of the lacquer and then put more lacquer on?

Or do you have to just strip off the original paint and do it again with stickers?
Or just live with a plain frame?

Any thoughts appreciated thanks

Never done it but can't see why you couldn't re-lacquer. Would be safest if you knew what type of lacquer it was and use same type again, though many of the reprove decals won't work with cellulose lacquer.

In the past I have put decals straight on top without lacquer - ideally I would have put on a mist coat over the top, but they lasted well, just have to be careful when cleaning

Yes i'd worry that they'll come off in bits and i just end up with bits of stickers everywhere

Apologies if this is a repeat thread.

I have 2 bikes at the moment that in a dumb 'im so cool' moment I stripped of decals.

One is a terry dolan ribble road bike the other is a basso. (both the older versions of the logos)
I am wanting to source the decals for both of these everything from tubing size stickers to head badge decals.

Anyone know of anywhere that is good for this stuff?

This guy in Australia does heaps -

http://stores.ebay.com/Cyclomondo

perfect! thanks very much gav

This guy in Australia does heaps -

http://stores.ebay.com/Cyclomondo

+1 bought CIOCC decals from him, they were v nice and the accompanying instructions were detailed beyond belief

nope they are v tough - the contacts for the seller I bought them off is here:

This guy in Australia does heaps -

http://stores.ebay.com/Cyclomondo