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• #277
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• #278
This is what I have been using.
Would recommend it.
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• #279
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• #280
Ali, aka Otto, here in the forum, bought one and he say that there were made out of cheese, that they get bent very easily.
I was very temptem to get one, after speaking with him I got one form CRC been very happy ever since -
• #281
Ben: They are very weak... useful to fill out a crank (if needed), but I broke mine pretty easily, it also used to bend into the chain's path if you shoot/pass under your BB too much.
I wouldn't bother, but up to you.
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• #282
Post edited and cheesy bashguards reinstated :) Thanks for the heads up!
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• #283
leave the link, so eveybody can see they are made out of cheese
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• #285
mental cranks.
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• #286
2 speed cranks. But fucking expensive, £520!!!
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• #287
mental.
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• #288
metal.
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• #289
I will not mind a Joust, at all
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• #290
Get one then rik!
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• #291
i rode a bike with two speed cranks, would be freaking awesome for polo!! but yeah.. crazy expensive, it works like a gearbox i think?
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• #292
The use planetary gears, same way that internal hubs work. But reading about these cranks, it sounds like they're pretty noisy when on overdrive. The ratios are 1:1 and 1:1.6.
http://www.bikerumor.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/09/bionicon-bbox2.jpg
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• #293
Honestly just watched all of this... Zzz... gets kinda interesting around the 4min mark.
YouTube - SCHWALBE 04 07 1 0004
!guess i be makin my own ones next time..
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• #294
Comedy value.
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• #295
I have a Billys retro mount thing for rear v-brakes but I still feel like I'm not getting anywhere near as much 'bite' / grip on the rim as I should be, or want.
I am guessing that normally those brakes are meant for wider rims and there isnt as much pivot on a narrow road bike style rim. Is there anything I can do to adjust the positioning of the brakes to increase the strength of the grip?
The little slot where the brake arm goes on at the pivot, where there are three holes (a balance screw, maybe?), I have it in the middle of three holes.
I have one of those little travel adjuster wheels, but I have a long reach lever (a rik double) so I dont have the cable wrapped around through the hole in the adjuster...
Any advice / info / links?
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• #296
You need to get the pads nearer to the rim.
Put the brake pins in the bottom hole and make sure the pads have the bigger spacing nearest the rim.
I run mine on a deep v no prob. -
• #297
.
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• #298
I had my wheel trued and now the brake bite like a mofo.
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• #299
Thanks Todd. I already put spacers on the brakes on the rim side alright, but then the position of the brake arms wasnt giving any bounce when the pads connected with the rim, and I wasnt sure which hole to put the pin into. I'll try the lowest one.
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• #300
I am guessing that normally those brakes are meant for wider rims and there isnt as much pivot on a narrow road bike style rim. Is there anything I can do to adjust the positioning of the brakes to increase the strength of the grip?
If you haven't already done so, try rearranging the spacers on the brake pad so that the thicker washer goes between the pad and the brake arm, and the thinner washer goes between the brake pad and the bolt.
The little slot where the brake arm goes on at the pivot, where there are three holes (a balance screw, maybe?), I have it in the middle of three holes.
These holes allow you to change the strength of the return spring (that pulls the pads away from the rim when you're not braking). The higher the hole, the greater the tension.
I have one of those little travel adjuster wheels, but I have a long reach lever (a rik double) so I dont have the cable wrapped around through the hole in the adjuster...
Don't use the travel agent, as this will mess up your cable-pull ratio. Just use a regular V-brake noodle.
Running both of the ribmos I put on two weeks before the worlds. Still going strong.
It is not about the tyre. It is about the brake.