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@number6
@ hugo - short dropouts a pain - ideally i'd have long closed loops - like the road dropouts but closed - so you can let the rear wheel slop about a bit whilst walking it forward back ward to change gear with your hand, but i've sorted that with bodge as seen (old hanger is closing the gate - stopping rear wheel dropping out - track rear end would have sorted this great, i still may get them put on ). it was supposed to be getting long road or track rear end as it was broken but my friend fixed the dropout there. ideally i'd like 35/15 on middle - same as my favored 42/18 and also making all 3 gear combos add up to 50t so meaning v. similar position of clamping the QR - i'd give myself another one link in the chain and then be able to get it much looser for the gear changes. i've put out 'wanted' for 35t 86 or 110 bcd - and i'l make a new rear cog cluster .but it is working very well really. can probably do gear change in 20 / 30 seconds , maybe even less
rides great, only taken for minor shake down only finished today, still a few aesthetics to sort too - black bar tape - a bit of paint on rear etc. i've designed a wedge in my head that when thrust between rear tyre and chainstay bridge should both center and tension the rear wheel simply by moving the bike backwards as wedge gets pulled in by rear tyre - might build that to make it easier to change gear
, everyrthing's been set up to make the gear change quick and easy as poss. i've stopped rear wheel being able to fall out once QR is loose, and made and derail guards for the front and rear smallest cogs (like and anti chain suck device ). rides great , very slight twang on top gear - needs more shim in outer chain wheel (or i might just 'sharpen' the smallest cog teeth a little )
i'm thinking of doing the tour of the peak ride on it