New 1x10 project advice?

Ok people I am after some advice before I go too far on a new bike project. I am starting a new build having stacked my last bike into a dumb-ass, don't bother looking pedestrian. As I suffer from knee problems fixed/ss is out the question, so I am looking at 1x10 set-up. I have a beater at the moment with 1x9 and it's a setup that works very well for me, but as I bought it like that I need to be aware of any pitfalls before I go too far. Here are my thoughts so far, and feel free to pick me up on anything...

1 - The frame is a 1990 Raleigh 653 Reynolds, which I am having re-sprayed (was thinking of Bob Jackson, but if there are any better suggestions feel free to let me know). While I am at it, I'm having the 126mm rear dropout spacing increased to 130mm so that it can take a 10 speed rear hub.

2 - I am going to be fitting 10 speed Veloce Powershift Ergos. As I am only going to have a single chain-ring at the front, is it possible to remove the front shifter mechanism from these without shagging up the braking?

3 - As I am only having a single chain-ring at the front does this mean I will only need a short cage on the rear mech, or is the cage length based purely on the difference between the min and max range on the rear cassette, so will I still need a longer cage for a greater difference between the largest and smallest?

4 - I am assuming that not having a front mech, will mean that I will be at greater risk of the chain jumping, so was going to use a similar setup to that which I currently have, which is a Deda dogtooth mounted where the front mech would be, to stop it jumping inwards, and swap the large chain-ring to the inside, and put a bash-guard on the outside to stop the chain jumping that way.

5 - I would really like to use Cinelli Pista bars, as the shape of them is as nice as it gets in my book, however I need to mount ergo levers, so is this A) possible to do without it looking a total dogs dinner, B) not possible due to the curvature, or c) likely to result in abuse being shouted at me by purists because I have wrecked a thing of beauty! Any alternative suggestion would be welcome if so.

6 - Wheels? Well I will need to base these around a 10 speed campag hub, but as this bike is going to be a serious project I don't want to let it down with some pony wheel-set, so if you have any recommendations for the best place to go for some nice wheels (understated to go with the classic look I am aiming for). I want them to be as light as possible, and my price range is probably going to top out at about £300.

Yeah I know, that’s a lot of stuff, but I thought I would just put it out there because you guys really know your bikes, and even if it's just one of the points you can help with that would be great.

1. BJ are fine, as are Argos or Mercian
   
2. I would leave it alone, just don't fit the shifter wire, or replace left hand brake lever with a non-Ergo one
   
3. Rear mech capacity measured by combination of front and rear tooth differences. With single chainring, short cage mech will probably be fine but depends on rear cog sizes you choose.
   
4. Will look strange but should work.
   
5. Try it and see. Unlikely you can't fit Ergo levers, just a question of position.
   
6. You want a classic look? Get your wheels custom built at LBS, something like 32 hole, small flange, 3 cross spokes on shallow section rims. Mavic Open-Pros are good. No radial spoking, no deep section rims, no carbon, no aero.
   
   

Ps This was probably better posted in the bits and pieces or mechanics forum.

1. BJ are fine, as are Argos or Mercian
   
2. I would leave it alone, just don't fit the shifter wire, or replace left hand brake lever with a non-Ergo one
   
3. Rear mech capacity measured by combination of front and rear tooth differences. With single chainring, short cage mech will probably be fine but depends on rear cog sizes you choose.
   
4. Will look strange but should work.
   
5. Try it and see. Unlikely you can't fit Ergo levers, just a question of position.
   
6. You want a classic look? Get your wheels custom built at LBS, something like 32 hole, small flange, 3 cross spokes on shallow section rims. Mavic Open-Pros are good. No radial spoking, no deep section rims, no carbon, no aero.
   
   

Ps This was probably better posted in the bits and pieces or mechanics forum.

Thanks for that feedback. Sorry i hadn't realised until I had submitted the post that it was under the "general" heading!

That all makes sense. I will probably try it out before adding point 4 (chain guard and dog tooth), and see how I get on, then if It suffers from a jumping chain think about adding it.

Might be better of with Criterium bars rather than Pista thinking about it, so will see how things look.

I'll stick a before and after pic up once it's finished so that I can illustrate that the overall idea is completely bollocks!

Thanks again

This was what I was on about re point 4
http://ruedatropical.wordpress.com/2009/01/02/cranksets-chain-guards/

Just went to the porn thread re:5 but the image was deleted. It was something like this though:

i.e. should be fine but you might not be so comfortable on the hoods.

Could use a chain guide in place of the f.mech, a Paul's chainkeeper

or similar.
The Paul's one is pricy but there are plenty of dirt jump bike equivalents at a better price point.

You should be able to remove the shifter mech from the left hand lever but unless the shift paddle is in the way or flopping about loosly then I personally wouldn't bother.

Just went to the porn thread re:5 but the image was deleted. It was something like this though:

i.e. should be fine but you might not be so comfortable on the hoods.

Got a similar set up on my Flying Scot, GB track shape bars with those very same levers.
There's no cable groove on the bars so it looks a bit veiny but I like the look/position/sticking to the bars that were on the bike when it was in my grandfather's possession.

Sheldon Brown - WHAT'S WHAT
Try to avoid the gears that make the chain cross over at an extreme angle. These "criss-cross" gears are bad for the chain and sprockets. Especially bad is to combine the inside (small) front sprocket with the outside (small) rear sprocket. This noisy, inefficient gear causes the chain to wear out prematurely.

Says the wise man.

Not sure why you are worrying about a chain guard on a single chainring setup. In the good old days of "5 speed bikes", we didn't worry about the chain coming off, as this usually happened during a during a front shift (which you won't have). The only exception was Cyclocross racing where a chain guard was used on both sides of the chainring.

Not sure why you are worrying about a chain guard on a single chainring setup. In the good old days of "5 speed bikes", we didn't worry about the chain coming off, as this usually happened during a during a front shift (which you won't have). The only exception was Cyclocross racing where a chain guard was used on both sides of the chainring.

Except with a 10 speed cassette there is a greater range of movement leading to more extreme chain angles at either end if the cassette so I higher chance of it coming off. I'd day you'd probably get a lot of chain noise in the highest and lowest gears. You could live with it but it'd wear out quicker.

ive been thinking about a 1x set up (1x7 or 1x8) too

2 i wouldnt remove the mechanism from the shifters, i would just cap the cable hole to stop dirt getting in a leave as is

3 iirc cage length is calculated by the difference between the largest and smallest chain ring plus the difference between largest and smallest sprocket, as your running a single chainring you only have to use the cassette difference

something you will have to work out is spacing, whether it be with bb length, chainring spacers, which side of the spider the chainring goes or all three
try to line up the chainring in between gears 5 and 6 on your cassette, it will illuminate to much cross like GA2G mentioned
also chain guards are a real pain in the arse to clean around without taking the chainring and guard off
an old mech would do, or the equivalent which have already been suggested

atb

Hmmm. You might be right, although old fashioned 5 speed screw on freewheels are probably only marginally narrower than modern 10 speed cassettes as the sprockets and chains are much thinner nowadays. So I don't think that the range of movement is that much greater, perhaps 2-3mm at either end. However, it is your bike, so your call.

Appreciate all the contributions. I am going to base the set-up fairly closely on the bike i am running at the moment, and i think it would make sense to have the chainring positioning lined up with the gear i am using most so that the least strain possible is put on the chain. I will definately hold off on chain-guards etc until i have decided whether or not they are really needed. Around London a 1x10 is going to suit me down to the ground, if i get it set up right, as it will cover me for everything i encounter day to day. Got some Criterium bars so will see how the Ergos sit before i go fitting it all.

I don't quite know what's going on here. Stupifyingly, no-one has just said, its a bad idea, even though it can be made to work. Just because a 1x10 can work, don't mean its the best solution. Personally, I think an internal hub, would be advantageous in this scenario. I have knee trouble, but wouldn't use the set-up that you feel is so ideal.

I don't quite know what's going on here. Stupifyingly, no-one has just said, its a bad idea, even though it can be made to work. Just because a 1x10 can work, don't mean its the best solution. Personally, I think an internal hub, would be advantageous in this scenario. I have knee trouble, but wouldn't use the set-up that you feel is so ideal.

Having had a number of road bikes all with front mechs, it is always the front which I either use less or is problematic, so it makes sense to me just to do away with it, and still have 10 speed which is perfect for what i need day to day. I currently have an old beater which has 1x9 and have come to realise that it's the perfect set-up for my needs. I'm just interested to know why you think it is such a bad idea?

Lol - Well its a common enough set up and nothing wrong with it at all. Its not remotely a bad idea if done well, and several OTP's come with this set up.

As for the redundant shift leaver, why not just get a campag Brake only lever

Personally, for the sake of longevity, I would only go as far as 1x5. Like I said, its a fit that's made to work, and not designed to work. If you're happy with it, then fine, but it just looks like unhealthy chain crossover to me. Is cost an important factor in your decisions? Otherwise, I can't see how a Rolhoff would not beat that pants off that set-up.

1x9 set ups are pretty common in MTB'ing, come as standard on many machines, and are made to work, not a bodge - many timetrial riders use 1x set ups too with no problems.

I ran this Dahon Hammerhead as a 1x9 (came as 1x8 from the factory)- switched out the rear mech to a 105 short cage after the pic was taken, never had any problems, using stock shimano 9 speed chain.

If the Chainring is lined up with the center of the cassette, then you shouldn't have any problems - the chain stretch on a double or triple set up is not an issue as the chain doesnt have to move anything like as far on a single chainring that is set up correctly

Well that's it then. Proof at last that Sheldon Brown doesn't know a goddamed thing about bicycles. I always suspected as much. Thank Jeebus for the good folk of this forum. I could almost have been so wrong!

Oh, and billholding, in future, when taking corners, do not lean.

Well youve only proved yet again that you dont know a thing about bicycles!

Personally, for the sake of longevity, I would only go as far as 1x5. Like I said, its a fit that's made to work, and not designed to work. If you're happy with it, then fine, but it just looks like unhealthy chain crossover to me. Is cost an important factor in your decisions? Otherwise, I can't see how a Rolhoff would not beat that pants off that set-up.

I had looked into the Rolhoff route, but it's just outta my price range, also from what i remember it's based more on flat bar use with twist shift, where as i prefer drop handlebars. I also picked up a new set of Campago 10 speed Ergopower shifters and rear mech for a steal.

As far as the chain crossover goes, i understand your point, and for the most part i will only be using a few of the gears which i will set up to focus on, but now and again it will be a help to have the others. The increase in distance isn't a whole lot more on the new 10 speeds than the old 5 or 6 speeds anyway. Still, i hear you regarding the Rolhoff, but as i say, no can afford!

Oh, and billholding, in future, when taking corners, do not lean.

thanks!

Well youve only proved yet again that you dont know a thing about bicycles!

Just because a practice is widespread, for example...brakeless riding, doesn't mean that its acceptable, right, or clever. Too many stupid people just follow the crowd, and if a lot of people do it, then it must be okay. Fail.

A chain crossing over too large a distance and too many times, is not a good idea. Just because it can work, doesn't mean its the best solution. There are better solutions and designs, even if this one is widely used. It is a bodge-job. Ask any engineer.