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A nice authentic cinelli vigorelli? oh I do think so.
Is authentic the new radical?
Discuss.
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got my frame back from armourtex today, ral4005 blue lilac metallic, lovely job except headtube which i'm badging anyway. pics up tomorrow or whenever i can find my camera, cant wait to build!
p.s. spotted maxcrowe by the ritz today for first time, he is a large man!Always new he was crackers.
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When he posted his Dodici a couple of pages back he said something about having never ridden in clipless before and didn't want his first ride to be 1500km. it was along those lines anyway
right. but now i'll use to start riding clipless at the dodici, because it's better for push and pull and the dodici my new long distance bike.
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a couple of shots of my steed (1980-ish Carlton Coursair) in its current form:
It's a bit of a beater, massive clearances, crappy components, plenty of scratches and a few rusty patches but she's my baby and i love her warts and all. Next plans:
- bar tape/grips.
- replace brake lever.
- replace ugly seatpost.
- replace one or both wheels to get them matching.
- possibly go up from 44T to 48T chainring. it's a bit spinny for my liking.
- bar tape/grips.
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Apologies for delayed reply, been a bit busy - still too busy to clean the rear hub and check for sure on the date, but I'm sure it's not a 53 now - it has these Raleigh bolts which were only fitted in '69 according to Sheldon (photo not of my bike):
Plus a '53 would be black and wouldn't have the new logo on the chain guard. Here is a '69 - different colour to mine but logos match and it has the gold bands too.
I thought the saddle was brown, but having been rehydrated it turns out to be black! Which would suggest original saddle (Sheldon says Black B-72 is OE) unless there was another reason you thought it was the second saddle?
The rubber bullet grips are original, although I think cork/leather might look nicer. We'll see. The tyres are original Dunlops, may need replacing though, not sure yet. Source for NOS Dunlop White Sprites anyone?!
You're very welcome mate. I knew Vaidas was on to a winner with that bike. My guess about the saddle, is that its the second saddle on that bike. The bike I'm pretty sure tallies up with the paperwork, so is from 1953, but the later saddle could just have been a replacement due to wear-and-tear.
I'm sure you'll do a fantastic job on the restoration to its former glory. Some cork grips, or leather handlebar tape, would be an improvement over the rubber grips; Oh yes, and some gumwall tyres, or new black ones would sort you out. I didn't check if the gearing was still ok. After so long, it might need some TLC also. Still, great buy though.
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Lust! LOVE to have a go on that
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edit: n/m
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That's a Raleigh Lenton sports, I think they're fairly rare?
The frame looks just like my Raleigh upthread but is 531. Some of the originals were fixed too. Nice!
Edit: Specs here if you're interested in working out year etc.
Just thought id show mu current project - it was a complete mess when i bought it (as you can see)
Still in a working state but im getting there, didnt want to buy a finished product so slowly building my own bike (with limited funding). Restored the existing BB,headest found an original crank
But its more about the process anyway ! taking me a long time, but getting there
Sorry about the shitty i-phone picks - all i had !
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carson - what brakes and tyres are you running?
was on a tight budget and 20 quid a set was too good to ignore - not put them to any great test yet but went on ok and seem to work well enough on gentle application
tyres are bontrager H4 700 x 35 http://www.johnsbikes.co.uk/catalog/bontrager-plus-35mm-p-188.html
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About
Current Projects chat and miscellany
Posted by
@emoxfag
MDCC tester is quite right to advocate supporting the crank before hitting the cotter pins. I use a small bench vice supported on a pile of books, or whatever comes to hand.
One thing not mentioned is that it's best to unscrew the retaining nut just to the top of the cotter pin thread before applying the hammer. This saves damaging the thread, and should allow you to reuse the same pin many times. If the cranks have been in place for many years penetrating oil (WD40) may be helpful, but in this case, judging by the shiny paint in the photo I don't think there will be a problem.
When I was young I smashed up a large number of cotter pins, but eventually I acquired the knack of removing them. I'd say cottered cranks usually take no longer to remove than cotterless, so take courage and start practising !
They certainly do look like C34 cranks. These are very serviceable, and there are a great many chain rings still in circulation. When they were current no one had heard of 'just in time' stock control.