Fuji Track / Fuji Track Pro / Fuji Track Classic

its like this, (the 2009 versin I think) with a slightly different paint job, but yea pretty much this one

This is actually the 2008, do your research next time...
Cheers

/attachments/26277

This is a successor, of the track comp 2009

1 Attachment

2009 is this one:

I know i have two of the 2010 at home

Is there a 2010 version already? They still sell the 2009 (as above).

Looking to replace the stock Fuji track 2010 BB with a Phil Wood BB, but not sure about sizing. I'm guessing it's JIS rather than ISO or CPCT, but what size?
This is to be paired with Sugino 75 cranks and a Phil hub.

anyone want a frame? It's cosmetically tired but in perfect nick -

http://www.lfgss.com/thread45858.html

Sorry dude but i think that's quite a lot for that frame considering the condition - i got a near perfect condition 2008 frame on here for £70. Maybe worth respraying first...?

I am also replacing my Fuji track stock BB, but with a Phil BB. Happy with the installation part as that is documented on the Phil website (as long as I can track down the Phil BB tools), but it is removing the stock BB that has me a bit confused:

1) Can I use the Park BBT-22 Shimano and ISIS Drive tool to remove the FSA Alloy BB? My research indicates that FSA may use something called "Power Drive" but I'm not sure if this is the same as ISIS Drive... Do I need one or two of these tools for removal/installation (as the BB will be used for another bike)?
2) Do I also need a crank extractor? I was under the (possibly naive) impression that the FSA cranks would just slide off the BB spindle when the bolts are removed?

Can't help with the first issues but the cranks are unlikely to just slide off. You can always try loosening the nuts and see if you can get them off by hand. If not then ask on here to borrow/buy a crank puller.

its standard 68 but you can dial the chain line a mm or so by adjusting the cups depending on the rear hub and cog used. Check out the transmission database its got loads of good variations on there and theyre tried and tested. Phil Woods can be ordered to suit your specific needs aswell just to add confusion on your behalf.

Phil Wood offers square taper bottom brackets in JIS, JIS low profile, and Campagnolo/ISO tapers. We offer all three tapers to try and best meet the needs of our customers who are using square-tapered bottom brackets. An explanation of the different bottom bracket tapers can be found here. In brief, most modern cranks will take the JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) taper, in addition to Campagnolo cranks produced before 1994. After 1994, Campagnolo moved to the ISO (a.k.a. Campy) taper. The least common of the three tapers offered is the JIS low profile, which is used in some specific older-model Dura Ace cranks. (Phil Wood does not make bottom brackets that are compatible with ISIS or cottered crank systems
An example of our stainless steel spindle bottom bracket.
The Phil Wood spindle diameter is 17 mm, and uses our unique cupped flats for crank arm retention.

Our bottom brackets and threaded cups are sold separately, allowing the end user to mix-and-match to create the correct taper, spindle length, and threading combination. The design of our cups allows for an additional 5 mm of lateral chainline adjustment.

We offer the following bottom bracket cup threadings (all cups are sold as a set and include thread retaining compound):

• British (1.370″ x 24 tpi, RH/LH thread) in stainless steel and alloy
  
• Italian (36mm x 24 tpi) in stainless steel and alloy
  
• French (35mm x 1mm) stainless steel
  
• Swiss (35mm x 1mm, RH/LH thread) stainless steel
  
• Raleigh Super Corsa (1.370″ x 26 tpi, RH/LH thread) stainless steel
  
• Chater Lea (1.450″ x 26 tpi, RH/LH thread) stainless steel
  In addition to standard square taper bottom brackets, in 2008 Phil Wood began producing an outboard bottom bracket. Compatible with all the threadings listed above, as well as a press-fit offering, these OBBs will work with Shimano-style OBB cranks. Our OBBs are not currently compatible with Truvativ/SRAM/Camapgnolo crank systems due to bearing incompatiblities.
  
  

Our outboard bottom bracket (available in all threadings as well as press fit).

Our proprietary bottom bracket tools (top: professional shop, bottom: consumer).

[bottom backet installation instructions (pdf)]

if the picture dont show check this out and all will be revealed
http://www.philwood.com/products/bottom-brackets/

For Sugino 75 cranks you want an ISO BB. The BB shell isn't relevant in the ISO/JIS argument. It's British threaded just like most bikes. That sorts your cup choice. I run a Sugino 75 BB with Sugino 75s and used to run a Miche. Not sure if it was the 107mm or the 111mm. I'm thinking the former as the requirement for Sugino 75s is 109mm (the Miche BB is just like the Phil in that it doesn't have a fixed cup. It has two adjustable cups allowing you to alter the crank position).

I am also replacing my Fuji track stock BB, but with a Phil BB. Happy with the installation part as that is documented on the Phil website (as long as I can track down the Phil BB tools), but it is removing the stock BB that has me a bit confused:

1) Can I use the Park BBT-22 Shimano and ISIS Drive tool to remove the FSA Alloy BB? My research indicates that FSA may use something called "Power Drive" but I'm not sure if this is the same as ISIS Drive... Do I need one or two of these tools for removal/installation (as the BB will be used for another bike)?
2) Do I also need a crank extractor? I was under the (possibly naive) impression that the FSA cranks would just slide off the BB spindle when the bolts are removed?

Yes, you'll need a crank remover. You'll get plenty of use out of it if you intend to fix track-type bikes though, so don't worry. I have a Condor own-brand one, which has been fine.

For the BB removal, I didn't have the tool, but noticed that the BB itself protrudes slightly from the BB shell. Cut two flats opposite each other with a hacksaw (being careful not to hit the BB shell) and you can remove it using a large adjustable spanner. I was delighted when I worked that out, as I'd no intention of reusing the BB or installing anything that uses the same tool, so it'd have been money for a one-use tool.

Cheers, the one I ordered in the end (after some some consultation with Hubjub) was the 108mm ISO, for the chainline to match a Phil Wood rear hub.

I have just been into evans to buy some cross top levers to use as primary levers on my new (2010) fuji track classic which I will be riding mostly single speed to begin with.

The bars are 26mm at the stem, but I am almost certain that they taper. Evans did had some tektro levers with a 24mm hinged clamp. The guy in evans used vernier calipers to try to measure them on the bike they had in store, but i think he did it incorrectly - we didn't move the bell or reflector and a 2.2mm taper isn't too easy to spot.

Anyway - can anyone with certainty say what the diameter of the bars is away from the clamp? I lost my verniers. Do I really want a 26mm lever or a 23.8mm lever (ie do the bars taper, and if they do, does it actually make much difference if i put the brakes nearer or farther from the stem?

thank you in advance -

plus - if anyone has any for sale I would be most grateful - I will be PMing the various for sale thread OPs when I know exactly what I'm looking for!

Could one of you kind folks with a 2009 track confirm the size of the seatclamp?? Found this thread about how he bought a 28.6 and it didnt fit and would prefer to check before I make the same mistake...

And, of course, if anyone has one of these going I would be very interested as well!!

Thanks!

now resolved, in case any one is interested - they're 26mm for about 50mm either side of the stem and then taper. I think the 24mm clamps would fit further out, but i went with 26mm levers from condor.

30mm

hey whats happening, i noticed you have some knowledge about the fuji track comp , and i was wondering if you can help me, i noticed the bike has a hole in the front for front brakes does it also have it for rear brakes? and can this bike be made into a road bike? thank you

Bought a 2010 Classic Track and have added/changed:

Velosolo Dildo bar
Nitto UI-5GX stem
Velocity B43s
New tyres & tubes
Grunge Turbin saddle
BLB seat post

Mainly cosmetic as gonna ride it until the main parts need replacing or get a new frame.

just randomly, i have a 2010 fuji track which is the 650c version for a little while now- i've noticed that the clearance between the back wheel and frame is massive, why is this?

because there isnt a 650c version?

lol

erm, i think you're very much wrong pete