Painting frame?

The paintjob on that doesn't look too shabby at all. Why d'you want to change it?

quick question, im about to have a frame re-sprayed. do i have to do lug lining BEFORE it gets the clear coat? Or can i do it after? Is it going to peel or will the paint withstand abuse? I ask because it will be a pain doing 2 trips to the spray painters. Do i need the clear coat?

i dont know, but i'd imagine it would look better under the clearcoat.

quick question, im about to have a frame re-sprayed. do i have to do lug lining BEFORE it gets the clear coat? Or can i do it after? Is it going to peel or will the paint withstand abuse? I ask because it will be a pain doing 2 trips to the spray painters. Do i need the clear coat?

First, is it being powder coated?

If it is then no you don't do it before the clear coat (powder coating is done at high temps which will fuck up any paint you add).

Also if it is a gloss colour then you don't really need a clear coat (see mine).

If it is stove enamle then you do it inbetween colour and clear coat.

There are tips on how to do the lug lining... which I'm guessing you've found if you've found this?

tip
examples

ive seen vaz use a pen for luglining,i used a fellowes Cd marker pen and its sound

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reculver: is that vaz's paint job?

cd marker pens clog up and then flood. i found model makers paint and super thin brush with a wrist guard and thinners on a rag nearby, you also need a good open surface and a means to hold it in a number of positions.
The lining work isn't tough but maintaining the accuracy whilst holding the brush at some odd angles is the challange.
Powercoated frames tend to have less of a defined edge on the lugs as it has been filled with paint. rattle canned frames can have their lugs scored carefully, this allows the paint to follow a grove and stay neat(ish)
you can add a clearcoat after any finish, just give the can a fucking good shake and spray lots of light layers in a clear area. once you get dust,finger prints.. any of that stuff. they its blemished and it's hours of work to get out

"The lug-lining is added by hand with a small pen-like device, carefully filled with the selected colour and lug lines followed to pick-out the lugs and finish the frame beautifully. Contrast band or barber's pole edges are finished by hand with the finest paint brush."

From the website of Mercian Cycles.

^ Strangely, my 'barber's pole' lining on my Mercian actually seems like a strip of something vinyl-ish, as it sticks out quite a bit. Not the same as the lining between the other contrast joins.

It does seem a bit unlikely that they paint all that by hand with a brush... it'd take hours. Hmm, curious.

yea lenk ,luglining by me

Am going to be respraying my frame for the first time, and I wanted to know if anyone has any pointers from their past experience on what to avoid/recommended paint brands/general tips of things I might not of thought of. .

..and if anyone has any stickers for said re sprayed frame (peugeot) that'd be immense

lazy job(takes about 2 days), you can just wipe the frame down with water. Take off stickers, remove parts. Leave the og paintjob and just go over it

apply two coats of what your coulor (no primer), and two coats of lacquer with about 50 minute drying time in between.

REALLY IMPORTANT BIT

let the lacquer fully solidify for about 2-3 days, it'll be touch dry with 30 mins but is will be still pretty soft and not resistant to scratches

this gives a pretty good finish and looks professional, as for endurance i've done about 3 bikes like this, the oldest of the bucnh done about a year ago and its held pretty good with regular every day riding

anyways i've done this method a few times it's done well

or to make it not a lazy paint job strip the frame first, acetone should do the trick ??

I was going for the full method, masking tape etc. Going to use nitromorse to strip primer, paint etc. Thanks for the tip on the lacquer!

Yea leave the lacquer time to dry properly for sure - can't help you with the stickers I'm afraid..

there's no real need for masking tape, apart from taping up the threads. Unless you're not planing on fully stripping the frame

wanted to leave the forks original colour so I was basically going to mask over the forks,, stem and headset

you'd probably be better off just removing them, and the headset

I have no bottom bracket tool in my 'shed' / living room

http://www.lfgss.com/thread2775.html

if i were you id really remove the headset and bb. will make your life way easier in the long run.

also for stickers http://www.hlloydcycles.com/

he's on holiday for 10 days as of today but they have almost every decal ever designed (probably)

Hi,
I have recently aquired a very nice 1954 Viking Ian Steele frame, however the paint job is pretty ratty. I would love to try and fully restore it however this will be my first attempt. I need advice on..

• The best place to get a frame sand blasted and sprayed on a budget in London. I have looked at Argos, however i was just wondering if there was any local competition?
  
• Where i could obtain a sticker set for this particular frame, whether anyone has remakes or if im going to have to try and hunt for some NOS?
  
• Also... any other advice you could offer as any knowledge is welcome!
  
  

Cheers!

"Professional"