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• #21227
My recently completed projects, a 653 Graeme Weigh road frame resprayed teal green at Armourtex and a SS aluminium Coppi for my girlfriend
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• #21228
^ smart bikes
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• #21229
As for weight a 90mm X2 is 139 grams
KCNC SC Wing Scandium Stem 31.8 or 26.0mm 90mm - Actual weight 92 grams - £62
Not contest for a "weight weenie" ..
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• #21230
Colnago is coming along just need Dura ace front rear mech picked up some Duraace down shifters today,also thinking I need brown hoods.
Fantastic .. Your Colnago is coming along very nicely. My only comment .. and you may have not setup them up yet but your brakes look a little high on the bars for when you're in the drops ..
1 Attachment
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• #21231
Nice Kingcutter. The dura ace downtube shifters are a pleasure to use. Really solid bang when you change gear. Ive got some dura ace brake levers with brown hoods you might like. Non aero though.
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• #21233
What handlebars have you got on there?
They are Cinelli Giro
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• #21234
"Cinelli 64" is a better search string if you want the Giro d'Italia bend.
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• #21235
My recently completed projects, a 653 Graeme Weigh road frame resprayed teal green at Armourtex and a SS aluminium Coppi for my girlfriend
Ummar, looking good man! I think you might have told me about the Weigh last night...? I was wrecked. Tell me, what was the ral code for that particular shade of teal? I have a Harry Hall mixte sat here that I've been asked to paint teal also. What happened to the tiny Carlton?! See you again soon bru.
p.s. could you by any chance send me that application info please? Thanks a lot.
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• #21236
Josh, colour is 5021 if I remember correctly. I've emailed that stuff over hope it helps.
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• #21237
My daily singlespeed
Old raleigh bought for £12. Sold wheels for £25, tyres for £10, gear mechs for £20. Resprayed using paint for my old Datsun. This will probably get powdercoated in a pale mint green soon as this bike gets knocked about a bit. Needs new bottom bracket and cranks... It also has a red chain and decent QRs which weren't fitted in the pics!
Sorry for bringing an old post up, or perhaps the tardy reply. Regarding the cranks - This bike looks a lot like my 1980 Raleigh and the cranks look the same too. If this is the case then be aware that the chances of your bb thread being different to standard is pretty high! Mine has the 'Raleigh' 26 tpi threading, rather than the standard 24tpi, which means it's a bitch to get a replacement bb without forking out a shitload of cash for a Phil. I tried a different set of cranks on my bb and they stuck out a mile. I don't know whether this is something to do with the taper on the axle or not. I know one of the easier options is to replace just the axle. I haven't managed to source the right sized one yet, but I also don't have any cranks to replace the old ones with either.
Keep me updated on what you do because I may well struggle with this one (or be too lazy to sort it out!)
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• #21238
^ Well when I got it, the crank extractor threads stripped so I cut the axle apart with an angle grinder. Didn't have a spare axle so I bought a cartridge BB. I just stuffed the old cranks back on because I needed it to get to work the next day.
They gave me a Shimmy UN54 BB (off the top of my head)... which didn't go in exactly straight, NDS is about 2mm lower than it should be and didn't rotate freely for a few miles (presumably the axle rubbing on the plastic shell). It's never bothered me because it's just a cheap hack - I always assumed that I had just cross-threaded it, but actually your suggestion makes sense.
Anyway, the BB is still slightly stiff (although probably wouldn't notice it when pedalling) and the enormous chainring is a bit of a sod (have torn two pairs of trousers on it). If I do get around to replacing it, and if it is 26tpi, then I'll probably get a YST threadless BB and whack on any cheap old singlespeed crankset. YSTs aren't the smoothest BBs, but it's a hack, so I'm not spending money on it.
I might re-frame it if I find a suitable and suitably cheap frame, it's a tad small for me.
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• #21239
Got some of the way with the tourer today - there are a LOT more fiddly jobs on something like this than a fixed build. A LOT. Lesson learned. Will try to finish it tomorrow.
End of play today it looked like this;
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• #21240
how did you do that 1 frame per 2 sec recording ? was it pre or post production ?
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• #21241
^ Well when I got it, the crank extractor threads stripped so I cut the axle apart with an angle grinder. Didn't have a spare axle so I bought a cartridge BB. I just stuffed the old cranks back on because I needed it to get to work the next day.
They gave me a Shimmy UN54 BB (off the top of my head)... which didn't go in exactly straight, NDS is about 2mm lower than it should be and didn't rotate freely for a few miles (presumably the axle rubbing on the plastic shell). It's never bothered me because it's just a cheap hack - I always assumed that I had just cross-threaded it, but actually your suggestion makes sense.
Anyway, the BB is still slightly stiff (although probably wouldn't notice it when pedalling) and the enormous chainring is a bit of a sod (have torn two pairs of trousers on it). If I do get around to replacing it, and if it is 26tpi, then I'll probably get a YST threadless BB and whack on any cheap old singlespeed crankset. YSTs aren't the smoothest BBs, but it's a hack, so I'm not spending money on it.
I might re-frame it if I find a suitable and suitably cheap frame, it's a tad small for me.
If you do take the bb out then you wouldn't be able to measure the threads accurately as you sound like you've mashed them! If I were you I'd leave the bb in and just sort another frame when you've found the right thing. I quite like my bike and it runs really well but I'm starting to get annoyed with all of the little bits that make Raleighs so bloody awkward! I may well end up replacing the frame, or even the whole bike if I see something I like.
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• #21242
Good for hanging shopping bags on though
Repped...
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• #21243
time lapse, most camera have those feature nowadays.
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• #21244
I propped my MacBook in the garage and used a snazzy and free bit of software called Gawker.
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• #21245
Oh, and I wish it was one frame per 2 secs - it was one frame every 10 secs. ALL DAY.
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• #21246
nice work. I like the long pause about 20 seconds in - was that lunch time?
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• #21247
I was going to mention the fact that there is *a lot *of time when the bike is sitting there on it's own!
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• #21248
Finished biulding a cheap, cos she never uses it bike for my mum, its not fixed, but 3 speed Sturmey. She likes it.....
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac37/roryjamal/Image0007.jpg
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• #21249
nice work. I like the long pause about 20 seconds in - was that lunch time?
We were just outside the garage - trying to sort the chainrings and crankset out. Forgot about the field of view...
I was going to mention the fact that there is *a lot *of time when the bike is sitting there on it's own!
Yeah, and the lighting was terrible. Didn't think we'd still be going after dark.
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• #21250
Hey guys, I'm looking for a bit more advice on my build. As some of you will have read, I have splashed out and bought myself a new frame (the John Major, bought from Object), and I am now building myself up my dream bike. It won't be to everyone's taste, I know. What I would like to know, is other peoples opinions on bars I should run with on the build. I was thinking Cinelli's but am not sure. Any ideas are welcome
Parts bought So far:
Grey 531 Track Frame with Undrilled Chrome Fork and CK Headset
Silver Open Pros on DA 7600's
DA 7600 165mm Cranks
46T Shimano Olympic Chainring
DA Sprocket 14T &15T
DA Aero Seatpost
Hatta BB
Nitto Track Stem (already owned -90mm deep drop, maybe Jag can't remember) should this be replaced for a Shimano one at a later date?
MKS RX-1 Pedals with black MKS Double StrapsJust writing this down makes me tingle with excitement. I can't f@cking wait build this up and start riding it!!! If only shipping from Japan had a next day delivery option!!! Thanks in advance for your help!
What handlebars have you got on there?