Goldtec Hub Failure

Clean your wheels you digusting human being...

or at least your chain

with the split on one side and the crack in the same place on the other, i'd guess it was the pothole.

just my 2p, probs worth less than 2p though.

Yeah, yeah, do you guys give your bike scrub in the evening only for it to get filthy again the very next day?

Probably couldn't take the weight of all that dirt.. :)

You make me feel ok about how clean my bikes are.

i admire a bike that dirty. mine is fucked at the moment too. the chain, chainring and spocket are the only things that really benefit from being clean.

You make me feel ok about how clean my bikes are.

+1

Yeah, yeah, do you guys give your bike scrub in the evening only for it to get filthy again the very next day?

the only thing i bother keeping clean on my bike is the chain. everything else i give a once over with the compressor, if i can be bothered. job done

90% lacing 10% pothole. What ever possessed you to lace up crows foot on a rear wheel ?

Three shops didn't have the right length spokes for 3-cross, so at the 4th I choose to go for crows foot.

I got the info that crows foot makes a strong wheel from this page http://www.geocities.com/spokeanwheel/lacingcf.htm. It doesn"t exist anymore but the wayback archive has it (sadly no images):

http://web.archive.org/web/20070510230333/http://www.geocities.com/spokeanwheel/lacingcf.htm

Still, shouldn't the spokes snap first?

According to this.. you did it wrong.. http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-313494.html

*BTW: If you're thinking of using Robert Torre's designs, here are a couple of concerns which I had after I built my first set. I sent a note to him asking to clarify a couple of questions which I had.

Here's my e-mail and his response:

Hi Robert,

Many thanks for the lacing information on your web-site, a truly great resource for any wheel-builder. I've just built a wheel using a Half Crow's-Foot pattern on a 32-hole rim and a small-flanged Shimano Ultegra hub. As per your instructions, I have all the radial spokes "heads-in" so that they come out over the flange, and the x2 spokes all are "heads-out" so they come out on the inside of the flange. Now, my problem is that I've not interlaced the spokes, for to do so with a small-flanged hub would cause such bending of the spokes as to be detrimental to the spoke and the hub, and I'm sure would compromise the integrity of the finished wheel.

I'm not sure I understand the implications as to the interlacing (or not) of the crossing spokes, in fact I don't think you address this anywhere on your site.

Comments/suggestions/help?

Thanks again for a great resource.

• Wil Davis
  
  
  

Hi Wil,

If I understand you right, when you talk about "interlacing" the spokes I assume you mean crossing the crossing pairs with the radial spokes.

I don't address this issue because the Crow's Foot shouldn't be laced that way. I haven't read the page in quite some time so I'm not real sure if I state that anywhere, perhaps I should if I don't. The radial
spokes should be on the outside of the crossing pairs at all times.

Since you laced the crossing spokes so they are all on the inside of the hub they will have to be interlaced.
The radial spokes probably don't touch the crossing spokes, which is normal for this lacing. One or two might just touch due to tolerances of the rim and/or build tension, but this is nothing to worry about.

I know that if you don't interlace a standard crossing pattern, or the crossing pairs of a Crow's Foot pattern when the crossing spokes are coming off alternate sides of the flange, that will cause problems. But that can't be the case the way you laced the wheel. It sounds like your wheel will be just fine.

Robert

Hi Robert,

Many thanks for the quick response. You've confirmed what I suspected, and I'm much more comfortable now pursuing Crow's Foot Lacing. I've just completed the rear for this set, again 32 holes, on a Shimano small-flanged hub. I've laced it x2 on the non-drive side, and x2 half-crow's foot on the drive side.

I must say that using this pattern has resulted in not only an easy job to lace, but the truing has been very easy; in fact the rear needed no additional dishing - it came out perfect first time, with ideal tension throughout the whole wheel.

Thanks again for the idea! I'm totally sold on it!

Regards -

• Wil*
  

ouch

lenni, i feel your pain dude. my rear goldtec disintegrated on tuesday. rode to work no problem. go to leave work, wheel fucked. walked to rollers.

can put up pictures though i am not sure i have captured how dirty my bike is as well as you have ;)

At least it's just Goldtecs.. how much are they? Try killing £400 worth of Powertap..

sobs

my goldtec hub cost me £401

sobs harder

Actually, I checked and the wheels cost me ~£390 but after the conversion it was closer to £500.

When was this?

Was it because you used a Continental on it?

Holy shit.. I never even thought about that!

i had a continental on the wheel with the broken goldtec. i don't ride contis ever but they came with the wheel so it made sense to ride it through. fuckin contis.

why have everyones goldtec's started breaking all of a sudden?! im scared

i am kind just hoping it's the cold. i have another goldtec rear and that is back on the daily whip now. and fred, i haven't forgotten about that saddle, but due to bike issues have not been able to strip that one down yet.

jonny, i have a spare rear, if you want to borrow it.

haha funny you should mention that, because i had. take your time, whenever works best for you

jonny, i have a spare rear, if you want to borrow it.

cheers murts, i used the rear of the Chesini for one day whilst i got my other spare rear sorted. all sorted now. thanks tho buddy

@fred - will get it to you at some point

Apparently this is quite common.
BLB say they get roughly one a month returned to them or brought into them. Thats alot.

harry are you here referring to goldtec flange failure, as seen above?

EFC are you still in berlin?

i'm not an engineer but i did read somewhere that machined hubs are weaker than molded hubs due to the alignment of the metal.
Goldetecs are machined aren't they ? but aren't Phil hubs also machined ? by that i mean they are machined completely from a big block of raw material, not just finished by machining the raw molded hub.

This in some ways, could explain why they fail as they do.