-
• #2
yep, find a good wheel builder, they will build the wheel to suit you, your riding and weight
-
• #3
just keep tightening till the spokes start pinging and then add an extra turn ( 360 ) for luck
that should get them nice and stiffthanks for the ticking balls offer but i think i'll pass cheers
-
• #4
do i get a free ball tickling?
-
• #5
I like stiff wheels...
and I cannot lie
-
• #6
thanks for the ticking balls offer but i think i'll pass cheers
You sure? I'm very dexterous
-
• #7
SURE YOU ARE but the offer is still declined thanks
-
• #8
yep, find a good wheel builder, they will build the wheel to suit you, your riding and weight
Good point. I suppose what i'm asking is... will the j-bend spoke design be able to get the same performance/feel as a straight-pull roadie try-hard wheel?
SURE YOU ARE but the offer is still declined thanks
Your loss. My special finishing move is infamous
-
• #9
i doubt a traditional wheel would be as stiff as a wheel with straight pull bladed spokes. but do you get brake rub or rubbing on the stays with conventional wheels? an super stiff wheel isn't going to give you a nice ride.
maybe tying and soldering on a trad wheel will help. -
• #10
^ Brake rub is not an issue i've experienced, but do feel flex even on a strong handbuilt wheel (CXP33/Track hub). I don't really notice too much loss of comfort either, between handbuilt and stiff racing wheels. The difference in performance is very clear though.
That probably answers my own question of what i should go for, but I think I would still take a handbuilt wheel purely for ease of repair if it could be built up very stiff.
-
• #11
tying and soldering doesnot help at all according to jobst brandt
Amazon.com: The Bicycle Wheel 3rd Edition (9780960723669): Jobst Brandt: Booksi have the book in pdf if anyone wants it i can mail it
-
• #12
Can you repair a wheel yourself, or would you use your LBS for that?
-
• #13
cxp33 not exactly the worlds most strong or non flexy rim ;)
i go up and down in tension with my own spokes, depends on lots of factors. would of thought a handbuilt 32 with brass nipples etc would be way stiffer than a factory 16 spoke with alloy nipples.
-
• #14
have you contacted someone like the wheelsmith? sure you could get a pair of gigantex rims laced stiff enough for your needs, perhaps not using traditional spoking though
-
• #15
Thanks for the advice all.
@DB, fair point on the CXP33 - i wasn't overly impressed by them either to be honest. Could you recommend me some components for a really stiff wheel?
have you contacted someone like the wheelsmith? sure you could get a pair of gigantex rims laced stiff enough for your needs, perhaps not using traditional spoking though
I have had a look at the lower profile gigantex rims, but lack of alu braking surface turned me off them.
-
• #16
I would recommend Parker International for nice cheap handbuilt road wheels.
-
• #17
depends on what you want it for?? the stiffest wheel i've built is a radial deep section 650 rim like a deep v or h+, onto a high flange hub. but thats not practical
i rate open pro's for all round use and lace them really tight as dicki suggested, till the nipples almost round off.
-
• #18
cxp33 not exactly the worlds most strong or non flexy rim ;)
i go up and down in tension with my own spokes, depends on lots of factors. would of thought a handbuilt 32 with brass nipples etc would be way stiffer than a factory 16 spoke with alloy nipples.
Damon Rinard article on wheel stiffness and types of construction
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/wheel/index.htm
I lol'd
Aerospoke 5 spoke 0% These wheels are the most flexible wheels I've ever tested. There is no difference at or between spokes primarily because they are so flexible everywhere
-
• #19
lateral stiffness vs vertical stiffness...whole big argument there!
-
• #20
i think, as ever, you won't get
any objectiveparticularly useful advice on here, so you may have to speak to a wheelbuilder and explore your concerns. harry rowland apparently built a great pair of cxp33s for a storck.. -
• #21
Lateral stiffness is a result of spoke pattern/number and rim strength. Vertical stiffness/strength is affected by tension, but definitely dependent on what/who the bike's for. Getting just enough tension for rider weight/application is what I'd recommend. Sometimes there's only 1-complete spoke turn between 'a bit too much give' and 'fucking uncomfortably bone-jarring'.
-
• #22
i think, as ever, you won't get
any objectiveparticularly useful advice on here, so you may have to speak to a wheelbuilder and explore your concerns. harry rowland apparently built a great pair of cxp33s for a storck..Yes, but i'm a human :)
Personally, I think the advice has been very helpful.
-
• #23
Last point from me:
Factory-built wheel manufacturers tension their wheels for their heaviest/most bike-abusive imaginary customers. If they're not easy to adjust, you're stuck with this 'setting' even if you're using the wheels for general riding/training and you're not a 120kg rider.
One way to moderate this situation, is to pick a wheelset based on certain inherent characteristics of the parts involved in the build.
I own one factory set of wheels: Campag Neutrons. I'm ~65kg, and ride fairly light. Despite the high tension of the spokes, they do afford some comfort due to the shallower section rim. There's no way I'd pick a factory built wheelset with 30mm rim depth. It would rattle the shit out of me.
And of course these were the wheels that ~90kg Backstedt rode to Paris-Roubaix victory - I'm sure comfort was high on his list of priorities for that one.
-
• #24
yes you're probably right, dose of unreason this morning, possibly linked to sense of forboding over the 'festive' season
65kgs, sheesh, doubly grumpy now
-
• #25
Well, 63kg for race weight on the road, but I'm only 170cm tall*.
*vain attempt to be all modern and metric and shit.
Hello internet,
I like stiff wheels... but the handbuilt wheels i've had in the past pale in comparison to my limited experience of straight-pull stiff factory wheels.
So, Is it possible to build a stiff wheel that compares, for example, to a mavic ellipse, but with the inherant ease of repair and service that handbuilt wheels afford? Is it simply a case of wheelbuilder skill, or is the only way to acheive exceptional performance to get some OTP hoops?
Thanks in advance for any advice
Will tickle balls for answers