Also, what about point 2 (sheldon method)? In what way is it not adequate?
As far as i know, the sheldon method is all good. Yes someone has had their bike damaged by a thief that thought the bike was prone locked this way ... and presumably damaged the bike in frustration at the realisation that it was not in fact prone ... but just looked it.
Skully, I stated in the Locks That Workthread, that the Sheldon Locking Method would not suffice in areas of high level bike theft.
First of all, the bike, to the untrained eye (opportunist thieves), looks improperly secured. A very well secured normally is obvious, even from across the street, because the lock goes through at least a wheel AND a major part of the frame. Since the Sheldon Method does not secure the frame, then the vulverable part is the wheel. Rims cannot possibly be as strong of the solid steel section of a u-lock, especially a good u-lock.
To comprehensively defeat the Sheldon Method, all one needs to do is this:
Deflate the tyre
Use a sharpened bolt-cutter to cut through the rim (and maybe a couple spokes).
Use an extra sharp knife on the tyre, as the bolt-cutter may get stuck on rubber.
Leave behind mangled rear wheel and tyre, with an undisturbed lock.
Yes, I have appeared to give away advice to thieves. But this is not so. Any thief walking past a bike that they really want, and it is Sheldon Locked, will have the bike in a minute, if carrying a sharpened boltcutter at that time. All he would have to do is try it. It would work immediately. Yes, they will leave behind the rear wheel, but if they've stolen a Mercian or a Pinarello, then it would be worth it to them.
As I have said before, it is fine for provincial security, but not in major cities, or where there is high-level bike theft.
I have not wanted to go against Sheldon Brown's advice on anything, as he has been the true guru of cycling knowledge for many of us. But, I leave anyone to make their own mind's up, regarding Sheldon's advice, or mine.
Here is Edscoble's bike below, locked in the Sheldon Method. Simply cut the wheel, and if that were the only lock, then the bike, minus one wheel, would be yours.
And here is Edscoble's bike below, locked in the far more secure manner, by including part of the frame.
Skully, I stated in the Locks That Work thread, that the Sheldon Locking Method would not suffice in areas of high level bike theft.
First of all, the bike, to the untrained eye (opportunist thieves), looks improperly secured. A very well secured normally is obvious, even from across the street, because the lock goes through at least a wheel AND a major part of the frame. Since the Sheldon Method does not secure the frame, then the vulverable part is the wheel. Rims cannot possibly be as strong of the solid steel section of a u-lock, especially a good u-lock.
To comprehensively defeat the Sheldon Method, all one needs to do is this:
Yes, I have appeared to give away advice to thieves. But this is not so. Any thief walking past a bike that they really want, and it is Sheldon Locked, will have the bike in a minute, if carrying a sharpened boltcutter at that time. All he would have to do is try it. It would work immediately. Yes, they will leave behind the rear wheel, but if they've stolen a Mercian or a Pinarello, then it would be worth it to them.
As I have said before, it is fine for provincial security, but not in major cities, or where there is high-level bike theft.
I have not wanted to go against Sheldon Brown's advice on anything, as he has been the true guru of cycling knowledge for many of us. But, I leave anyone to make their own mind's up, regarding Sheldon's advice, or mine.
Here is Edscoble's bike below, locked in the Sheldon Method. Simply cut the wheel, and if that were the only lock, then the bike, minus one wheel, would be yours.
And here is Edscoble's bike below, locked in the far more secure manner, by including part of the frame.