Pedal Strike / Pedal Scrape / Scraping when cornering

i had pedal strike before, when I used MKS sylvans... but now I'm on SPDs, it never happens. Same crank length, just less pedal.

Just a little more UTFSing and... bingo!

Isn't counter steering just a means of leaning the bike...?

Steer right > bike banks left = you're still end up leaning and still have the problem of pedals nearing the floor?

Correct me if I'm wrong.

Admittedly they are only 165's but at least im a fairly short person. I know people 6"4 who ride 165's because they are scared of pedal strike, on a geared bike!

As Mechamorgan just mentioned the secret to riding with a very low bottom bracket is countersteer. Ive never done it consciously it just automatically happens when approaching a corner you feel is too tight. I do the same on any bike actually as it reduces likely hood of sliding out of a tight corner which is surprisingly easy to do, especially with leaves all over the place!

I ride a conversion with 170 cranks, clips and straps. When I first built it up I had flats and a BB that was far too wide, like 122mm or something. Pedal strike was pretty awful. I swapped out the pedals for a set of well-go's I had lying about which are better shaped for cornering clearance, and fitted a 107mm BB which is as narrow as can fit. Problem solved, unless I get a little too excited and bank right over. The difference those changes made was night and day.

+1

unless we got it wrong how does that reduce the angle of the bike to the road?

DFP...what peds you on? we pretty much have the same set up BB and crank wise and you never get strikes? assuming you ride road on that bike?

There fukin massive if you want something smaller and black try speedplay frogs

true...big and ugly. nice suggestion...cheers

I have shimano 600 cranks, 110mm bottom bracket and my pedals are cheap mtb cage type.

By countersteering you can take a corner a wider which makes the turn less sharp which allows you to take it more upright.

Think of a bus/truck goung round a tight bend, it swings outwards first.

I do pedal scrapes on purpose, it's so I can pretend I'm doing pedal grinds, like some rad pegless bmxer

I ride a conversion with 170 cranks, clips and straps. When I first built it up I had flats and a BB that was far too wide, like 122mm or something. Pedal strike was pretty awful. I swapped out the pedals for a set of well-go's I had lying about which are better shaped for cornering clearance, and fitted a 107mm BB which is as narrow as can fit. Problem solved, unless I get a little too excited and bank right over. The difference those changes made was night and day.

surely major bad chainline result?

I had pedal strike avoiding a woman who stepped out in front of me, I think there were sparks but I might have made that up as I praised myself for such quick reactions.

stabilisers will help you avoid pedal strike

I just pull a wheelie until I'm on a straight again

stabilisers will help you avoid pedal strike

ha + 1

I'm riding 177.5mm cranks (fixed) on a frame with 260mm BB height. It's all to do with the technique in the corners, knowing what the crank positions are when you cut through the apex of the corner.

just get used to taking corners wider and not leaning so much. job done.

or get smaller pelalds.

Ah, okay I see what you mean now - this isn't countersteering though. Countersteering is a short, sharp tweak off the handlebars to throw the balence off center in order to innitiate a lean.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Countersteering

What you're talking about is just moving over to get a better line?

By countersteering you can take a corner a wider which makes the turn less sharp which allows you to take it more upright.

Think of a bus/truck goung round a tight bend, it swings outwards first.

Easy solution - just take the pedals off ... end of problem ;)

What you're talking about is just moving over to get a better line?

By method of countersteering.

It isnt really possible to 'fake' or exagerate counter-steer, if you come in at the right speed and angles it all just falls together.

Easy solution - just take the pedals off ... end of problem ;)

thanks...thats a great idea. i just off to b&q now to get a lump hammer and nail my feet jesus style to the crank arms...considerable weight saving too.

+1

unless we got it wrong how does that reduce the angle of the bike to the road?

DFP...what peds you on? we pretty much have the same set up BB and crank wise and you never get strikes? assuming you ride road on that bike?

By moving the pedals in towards the centreline of the bike it has the effect of lifting the bottom bracket - the pedal will be higher up as you bank over.

surely major bad chainline result?

Nope, near as dammit to perfect. The old BB was completely too wide. This one fits like a glove.

You called?

Not to blow one's own trumpet or anything....

My pedals keep striking on the road any suggestions to help stop this
its destroying my pedals :(

buy shorter cranks, or get a frame with a higher BB.
or get some proper pedals.

bmx pedals tend to hit the ground more as they have a thicker body.
buy thinner pedals.
go clipless.