Locks that work

I have added an attachment, just below the photos.

I'll keep updating when possible.

brilliant! more spam!

brilliant! more spam!

Heyyy, who said that??

;)

AdamM, to be honest, I had my misgivings about using Stainless Steel to make a U-lock.

But upon looking up various types of steels, and the strengths of them, I came across info on Wikipedia that claims that Stainless Steel has a very similar Ultimate Strength to titanium, though of course, for the same size, titanium is far lighter. There is a chart halfway down the page.

Wiki: [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tensile_strength]

I can now say that I would trust the Xena Bullett XUL series; and I think the alarm is a brilliant touch.

Stainless steel has excellent anti-corrosive qualites also.

And of course I've just bought a Kryptonite NY Mini... d'oh! Not that that is a bad thing. ;^)

I wonder if anyone can explain something for me. Sheldon Brown on his Lock Strategy page says that

"A U-lock should go around the rear rim and tire, somewhere inside the rear triangle of the frame. There is no need to loop it around the seat tube as well, because the wheel cannot be pulled through the rear triangle."

So am I right in thinking that as long as you lock your rear wheel as in the picture then, quick release nuts or not ,the rear wheel and frame are safe as long as the lock isn't cut through?

yes

I wonder if anyone can explain something for me. Sheldon Brown on his Lock Strategy page says that

"A U-lock should go around the rear rim and tire, somewhere inside the rear triangle of the frame. There is no need to loop it around the seat tube as well, because the wheel cannot be pulled through the rear triangle."

So am I right in thinking that as long as you lock your rear wheel as in the picture then, quick release nuts or not ,the rear wheel and frame are safe as long as the lock isn't cut through?

Relatively safe, its suprisingly difficult to cut through the wheel and tyre, but like any other lock and locking technique its not 100% safe. With a big set of bolt croppers you can still snap a buch of spokes to destress the rim then just much through the rim and tyre.

Kryptonite New York Lock around back wheel, seat tube to a post +
Kryptonite Mini-D around front rim and down tube.

I wonder if anyone can explain something for me. Sheldon Brown on his Lock Strategy page says that

"A U-lock should go around the rear rim and tire, somewhere inside the rear triangle of the frame. There is no need to loop it around the seat tube as well, because the wheel cannot be pulled through the rear triangle."

So am I right in thinking that as long as you lock your rear wheel as in the picture then, quick release nuts or not ,the rear wheel and frame are safe as long as the lock isn't cut through?

It's hard to visualise but I think that's right. Even if someone undid the wheel nuts they wouldn't be able to pull the wheel and the lock through the space between the drop-outs.

It's hard to visualise
That's what I'm having trouble with - the doubting Thomas syndrome..

Sheldon's strategy makes sense, but I'd always worry that thieves would think that the bike was less well locked than it was and have a go. I don't want that attention.

You'd think that but locking my bike in bad part of London for the past 2 years, it doesn't seemed to encourage the theft to make an attempt.

It's hard to visualise but I think that's right. Even if someone undid the wheel nuts they wouldn't be able to pull the wheel and the lock through the space between the drop-outs.

Maybe I'm missing something here but wouldn't it be even better to put the lock around chain-stays, rear wheel, and post (or whatever it's actually locked to. Filling up the space more effectively, non?

Has anyone ever had their bike nicked or tampered with when it's been secured by one of these? Are they any good as I can see no reference to them in this thread?

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/accessories/locks/product/steel-o-chain-81085-lock-14868

I've got a few of those, Joel. I use a mini fagheddaboutit and one of those to lock my bike. It seems robust enough but I'm not sure I'd lock my bike up with it alone.

Cool, cheers Andy. Was thinking about getting a Fah as well come payday and combining the two so sounds ideal.

would have thought it wouldn't be hard to split the rim to get the rest

i have seen remnants of broken wheels (snipped through, spokes and rim) at bike locking island in Elephant and Castle, about a year ago, although i cannot say if it was locked in one way or another, though the above locking method seems likely.

it does sound like it's those cheap MTB wheels, if a theft can see that the rear wheel is of high value, he'd rather cut off the lock to preserve £100-150 worth of wheel.

Has anyone ever had their bike nicked or tampered with when it's been secured by one of these? Are they any good as I can see no reference to them in this thread?

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/accessories/locks/product/steel-o-chain-81085-lock-14868

I have that as a simple deterrant, you can easily cut that with an angle grinder, having says that, what exactly are you going to use it for? if for locking something like frame and front wheel together, an small U-lock would be more than enough (Evo Mini).

I have that as a simple deterrant, you can easily cut that with an angle grinder, having says that, what exactly are you going to use it for? if for locking something like frame and front wheel together, an small U-lock would be more than enough (Evo Mini).

At the moment it's the only lock I have but am thinking about getting a Fah and combining the two. I wonder how well this chain would stand up to cropping if off the ground, only 8mm links but hardened steel. Have had a look online to see if there are any security tests for this model but drew a blank. Do you combine yours ed or use it on its own?

only as a combination, says as an extra lock to give the theft more grief, even if it can be angle grinded in says 20 second (I think).

Joel, I like you. In fact, I think everybody likes you (big hug + kisses), so I will tell you honestly.....
The reason I created a Locks That Work thread, was that I would feel like shit, if a person I knew had their bike half-inched (Americans please head to the Cockney Dictionary).

An 8mm lock would bring a broad smile to any professional thief's visage. Buy a 16mm U-lock to proffer a relatively strong deterrent to thieves, and an 18mm U-lock for some real peace of mind, when in the pub having a laugh and a drink, and know that your bike will be there when you're done.

There is only one Armoured Cable Lock that makes the grade, and thats the Abus Steel-O-Flex Granit X-Plus 1050. Its pricey, but if you really wanted a cable lock, thats the only one I'd like to see on anybody's bike. U-locks are cheaper, for the equivalent or superior security. NO LONGER RECOMMENDED AT ALL. Do not use armoured cable locks. They are too easy to crop.

it is pricey, but print out a copy of the cheapest one that are sold in Google product search, says like this;

http://www.discountlocks.co.uk/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ABU1050100

and then go to Cycle Surgery and ask for a price match.

hopefully with that you'll save at least £10-15 over the cheapest lock from the online shop.

By the way, to all concerned about the Sheldon Brown Lock Strategy, I completely and utterly disagree with it.

Yes, Sheldon Brown is rightly the guru of nearly all cycling endeavours and pursuits, but I wouldn't say that Security was his field of specialism.

There is a psychological aspect to opportunist and amateur theft. If a bike LOOKS more easily nickable, someone (with an albeit smaller brain) will have a go. This then will leave a damaged bike.

The Sheldon method is good, but if a pro team were in the neighbourhood, and this was locked up with anything less than an 18mm lock, I'd cry with the owner when the team had swiftly moved on, with their lovely new steed.

I would recommend locking the rear wheel with the seatpost, or both seatstays, as it is then obvious how much cutting would need to be done to get the bike.

To defeat the Sheldon method.....Puncture the tyre, and cut the rim with an anglegrinder. I doubt this would take more than 5-10 seconds......as opposed to 3-4 minutes for the best locks.

Yes, again, Sheldon is a genius, but his locking method invites frame-damage from the ignorant, or the loss of a bike, from the well-equipped thief, .....and rapidly too.