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• #27
IRD: This guys has them in stock, drop him a line, I'm sure he's happy to advise. He's a nice guy and a good wheelbuilder:
Excellights: A wheelset recently sold on ebay, item 260417063385, a few pics there or lots on google images. They pretty much look like any other box section rim (unsurprisingly!), maybe slightly taller than open pros.
Courant
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• #28
I know about wheelsmith, cos Ant had a set (or 2) done - tubs though, Ambrosio. He definitely seems to be the main point of distribution for them in the UK. I might use wheelsmith - just send him whatever hubs I pick. I could build myself, but probably best to leave the initial cobbling together to a full-timer, and do true-ups and rebuilds myself, if necessary.
Have you had stuff from him then, Courant?
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• #29
Yeah, I had some wheels built by him about 6 months ago. Very nice they are too, and he's good to deal with. I'd certainly recommend.
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• #30
Still tempting to source parts and do it myself though. Reckon that saves about 1/3 of the cost.
Hmmm...
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• #31
That thought's been running through my mind too... Had I the time, and were I building a simple and robust wheelset (i.e. lots of spokes, beefy rim, brass nips, fixed rear hub and thus no dish to worry about), I'd do it myself. Trouble is: I lack time; I want/need a light and aero-spoked wheelset, which I'm not going to make my first wheelbuild!
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• #32
Hey sorry to hijack your thread. im looking for a low profile rim, i want the araya gold but i dont think they exist in clincher. do anyone know rims that looks like, clinchers???
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• #33
Cxp33
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• #34
is this goldtecs website?
http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/Everyone says to buy from them, and i want to make sure im getting the from a good place :) anyone care to comment on there wheel builds?
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• #35
yes.
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• #36
ok thanks Sf :)
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• #37
Anyone here used the Kinlin XR-200? Or IRD Niobium Road?
We use Mavic open pros, open sports and IRD Cadence and Cadence Aero rims.
Mavic rims, nice and affordable, great reputation and reliable.
The IRD rims you pay a bit more for, however, they are stiffer and lighter. I have Cadence on my road bike and for climbing in Mallorca, excellent, light, nippy, a joy to ride.
We use RoadAce Components to build our wheels, Steve is the guy who is the builder.
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• #38
The IRD rims you pay a bit more for, however, they are stiffer and lighter. I have Cadence on my road bike and for climbing in Mallorca, excellent, light, nippy, a joy to ride.
I was looking at the IRD Cadence Road/VSR combo. I figured for a 80ish Kg guy like myself 32-3x rear and 28-1x front, would give a light yet strong wheelset. I'm not sure if its worth going radial/1x on the non-drive side of the rear to balance the wheel, as the VSR design would result in less dish.
How do you guys tend to build them up?
Cheers.
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• #39
Rigida excel mirror finish:)
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• #40
We use Mavic open pros, open sports and IRD Cadence and Cadence Aero rims.
Mavic rims, nice and affordable, great reputation and reliable.
The IRD rims you pay a bit more for, however, they are stiffer and lighter. I have Cadence on my road bike and for climbing in Mallorca, excellent, light, nippy, a joy to ride.
We use RoadAce Components to build our wheels, Steve is the guy who is the builder.
I am considering a IRD Cadence Road to a low-flange hub build. 28 2x or 3x front / 32 3x rear. Would you say the low-flange would be a bad idea with these rims? would they lack stiffness and strength?
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• #41
I think I'll be trying Cadence Road. I've built plenty of standard wheelsets, but using CX-Rays would be a first for me. I'll never know how tricky they are to build with until I try, so...
I saw some moody bastard giving Steve RoadAce grief on the WW forum for 'spamming'. Can't believe people would get so uppety about professional wheelbuilders sharing advice/experience on a lightweight wheels sub-forum :S
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• #42
I was looking at the IRD Cadence Road/VSR combo. 32-3x rear and 28-1x front.
I am considering a IRD Cadence Road. 28 2x or 3x front / 32 3x rear.
I think I'll be trying Cadence Road using CX-Rays.
Are we all thinking of building the same wheels?
I read a good tip regarding cutting a slitt into a plastic disc to hold the aero spokes straight while tightening the nipples.
(PS: Pisses me off when people flame cycling professionals on bike forums. If they are open about representing a shop or whatever, and hand out free advise. whats the problem?)
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• #43
is this goldtecs website?
http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/Everyone says to buy from them, and i want to make sure im getting the from a good place :) anyone care to comment on there wheel builds?
My current rear wheel was built by them (Goldtec hub, CXP 33 rim, 36 spoke) and it is beastman strong. Still true of course but have only been using it a month. Would not hesitate to recommend them.
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• #44
^ ditto. Very reasonable prices for the build, and good solid wheels that are in perfect condition after 6 months chucking around the trenches of london. If you ask them nicely they can supply you with silver-finish goldtec hubs too.
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• #45
Are we all thinking of building the same wheels?
Are we all climbers :D
I'm 64.5kg at the moment, but have hit 62kg when racing.
I think my planned set might be a bit more exotic, but it's all speculative for now...
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• #46
Are we all climbers :D
I'm 64.5kg at the moment, but have hit 62kg when racing.
I think my planned set might be a bit more exotic, but it's all speculative for now...
Definitly climbing wheels for me. I have some nice climbs pretty local, although at 80Kg I wont be racing up them.
As for exotic. Novatec do a rear wheel based on a 32 hole hub but laced with 24 spokes. 16 spokes 2cross on the drive side and 8 radial (every other hub hole) on the non-drive side. I was tempted to copy it, but I'd probably need to use the candence aero rims for strength, and what I really want are out and out climbers.
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• #47
CXP 33. I race on them, they are excellent hoops. Build with DT Revolution spokes for the front wheel, and use less spokes. You can do the front wheel radial if you like. They aren't seriously aero, but don't handle badly in a crosswind either. Don't let the tyres get soft- these rims will crush easily if they bottom out, that's the price of lightweight clincher rims.
If you want a lightweight rim, just for hillclimbs, go for a tubular. That's the only way you'll save serious weight. Ambrosio Chrono rims. If you want a slightly more comfortable ride, the open Pro is the best choice, but the weight saving over the CXP 33 is insignificant.
Have fun!
PS if you choose to use alloy nips make sure the spokes are long enough. They must reach right through the nip.
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• #48
I'm about to build a new set of wheels.
Phil Wood high flange hubs.
I've narrowed the rim choice down to either Open Pro's or CXP 33s.
I want a wheel that is stiff and light. It seems like the Open Pro's will do this job, but the CXPs might be stiffer and a bit more aero.
Will the CXPs build into a wheel (all other things being equal) that is significantly stiffer than an open pro?
Also, does the CXP provide any real aero benefit, as alluded to on the Mavic website?
The CXP weighs only 40g more so if it has any benefits then I'll probably settle for it!
And yes, I have UTFS etc, but couldn't find a discussion on the above.
Cheers.
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• #49
open pro's i have them on most of my bikes good solid strong
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• #50
This has been discused a few times. Cant remember under what title though.
The CXP's will use slightly shorter spokes which will give a *slightly *less forgiving/stiffer ride. I cant imagine the aero profile gives any real world benefits.
Both build into tough wheels as the CXP's have a strong profile, and the Open pro's have reinforced eyelets. Both are quality rims.
Logically I'd recommend the Open pros, as they are a bit lighter, and might be more comfortable for bike and rider.
But then I went for the cxp 33s myself....
THe last time you saw it was when I posted it.
I own your mind.
Beware.