Seatpost Security

bearings & superglue would be more secure. I carry a chaintool in my repair kit and I could crack a chain in, what, 10 seconds..? On the other hand, it would take me 20-30 minutes to remove glue & a bearing from one bolt.

more security
more attractive than a chain/tube
no rattle while your ride
just as inexpensive

-if someone REALLY wants my seat, i dont think the deterrence of having a chaintool will stop him.

-the chain-inner tube is a very common scene here in san francisco. (so instead, often times it is more of a fashion statement)

-the setup doesn't rattle, because its wrapped in rubber (inner tube) and you make it taut so no shaking

-super glue + want to adjust seat = FML~

thx.

The key here is to think laterally.

I superglued my saddle to my bibshorts so I don't even have to think about it.

-if someone REALLY wants my seat, i dont think the deterrence of having a chaintool will stop him.

-the chain-inner tube is a very common scene here in san francisco. (so instead, often times it is more of a fashion statement)

-the setup doesn't rattle, because its wrapped in rubber (inner tube) and you make it taut so no shaking

-super glue + want to adjust seat = FML~

thx.

the key is be dialed before applying glue. and if you need to adjust, just crack open a beer and spend an hour dissolving the glue. big deal.

a chain is ugly, no matter how trendy it is. and much less secure.

I'll take the hassle of glue to protect my 6 year old, broken-in brooks pro. I wouldnt feel as safe with just a chain...or a cable...protecting it.

Olo - So you glue the seat post clamp hole and the other hole that clamps the seat itself to the seatpost right?

Its the latter that pitlock cannot do.

Also, in the last six years, using you method, have you left the bike locked up outside in London a lot? I'd really like a brooks but am worried about it going walkys.

I use glue/bearings in all 3 saddle/seatpost bolts that I have. I recently spent an hour or so dissolving and picking glue of the two seatpost bolts so I can raise my saddle height since I recently switched to clipless. I highly doubt any thief is going to take the effort to do this...much too frustrating and tricky if you dont have know-how or light or the ability to lay the bike down to hold the accetone in the bolt. you could use cotton swabs to wipe the glue away, but that simply take more time. the quickest way is to lay the bike down and fill the bolt with acetone and let it sit for 30 mins...and then spend another 30 mins picking out the excess goop with an awl or sharpened spoke.

I've been doing the glue thing for 2 years now. Before then, I looped a cable through the saddle rails and then into my d-lock when locking up (and always worrying if there would be someone that would just take my seatpost itself). saddle theft is no longer a concern of mine. I'm more worried about my fahgettibouditt d-lock being cut...which says alot.

Well, the fag will only be done in by an angle grinder, so I don't think you've got much to worry about there either!!! :)

Thanks for taking the time to write - this definately seems like a good idea. Pitlock are frankly stupid for not coming up with something themselves for the seat itself, which is totally unprotected.

I noticed for inner tubes the forum did a bulk purchase. What about the same for these Torx screws?

They only seem to be availible in packs of 100:

http://www.toolfastdirect.co.uk/acatalog/res_machine_Security_Screw_csk_Head.html

You can buy these singly in Clerkenwell screws, but of course now it's been posted on here, at least some of the thieves will start carrying the little kit of bits to undo them. Still it may decrease your chances of it going missing. Also regarding the bulk purchase does anyone know if all seatposts use the same size? My campy Titanium use a 32mm 8M bolt, but I don't know about the others.

i have used ball bearings for years.
have also seen a sawn through seatpost. where the saddle was worth far more than the seatpost.

i have used ball bearings for years.
have also seen a sawn through seatpost. where the saddle was worth far more than the seatpost.

Sawn thro setatpost has really depressed me......

Don't use expensive saddles on bikes you regularly leave out..

^ he speaka the truth...
not always... but here, yes.

Don't use expensive saddles on bikes you regularly leave out..

+1. And why my Brooks Swallow does not get used on the commute bike

i have used ball bearings for years.
have also seen a sawn through seatpost. where the saddle was worth far more than the seatpost.

ouch

if you're going to use an expensive saddle, cover it with black plastic bag or an aardvark cover when you lock up. maybe no one will notice...

Olo - can you shortly explain how to use bearings + glue? I saw people using cables + locks but I'm not sure how to secure my saddle with bearings.

a ball bearing inside the bolt make it difficuit to push an allen key in, not enough leverage room to loosen the bolt.

use the gel superglue, they'll hold on better than normal.

cable and lock aren't that secure, one cut on the cable and it's missing.

[URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=01TPK7ChLmA"][/URL
]

My issue is that brake? Somebody explain neccesity/position

My issue is that brake? Somebody explain neccesity/position

no brake or cables at the front means no obstruction when you lift up the front wheel and spin the handlebars around.
brake on the back means you have something resembling an emergency brake.....i think.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvFNeH4XQAE&feature=related

sorry if i missed something

nearly, the owner of that bike is cheating the law by having "a" brake. it's a p!sstake.
in a emergency, you would not be able to get anywhere near it. and the owner has no intention of trying.

Olo - can you shortly explain how to use bearings + glue? I saw people using cables + locks but I'm not sure how to secure my saddle with bearings.

easy.
position bike so that the bolt your working on is level.
place a small bearing into the bolt (not too big - you'll want there to be a space in between the bearing in the center and the inner wall of the bolt so if you ever have to remove it, it will be easier to pry out)
fill to the top with superglue.
let it sit over night.

when it's dry enough so it doesnt drip or move around
do the other bolt(s).

My issue is that brake? Somebody explain neccesity/position

some places have laws that require a bicycle to be equipped with a handbrake. the owner of the bike is following the law but doesnt want to mess with the "aesthetics" of minimal track bikes & refuses to put a brake in the front for that very reason (as if a brake on the rear looks better).

in short, the owner is an idiot that has compromised to avoid trouble with the police but choses fashion over practicality.

how practical is it to secure at least one bolt each for stem and bar clamp? in terms of practicality and adjusting/fiddling while on the road? just the other week someone looked for a stem and drop bars for his mate's bike. the cockpit got nicked completely. for quill type stems its even just one bolt really.

Ultimately, and as you often see around town, if a tealeaf really wants your saddle they will just cut through your seatpost

some places have laws that require a bicycle to be equipped with a handbrake. the owner of the bike is following the law but doesnt want to mess with the "aesthetics" of minimal track bikes & refuses to put a brake in the front for that very reason (as if a brake on the rear looks better).

in short, the owner is an idiot that has compromised to avoid trouble with the police but choses fashion over practicality.

correct. California law requires a working brake on a bike. here in Davis California, 90% of fixed gear riders ride brakeless (hillless terrain) but are downed by the anal bike cops that pull them over for not "following" the law. so we are trying to work around the issue~ we're not cheating the law; the law is simply outdated and incorrectly written to not take into consideration that our drivetrain is a viable part of a braking system. just doing that we dont get bothered by the police.

that bearing in hex hole sounds like such a great idea~ does something similar in principle exist for the wheel nuts? any ideas?

hey muckymucky. if you don't get punctures and never have to adjust your drivechain, then you can do it, unfortunately, that never happens.

and hi

correct. California law requires a working brake on a bike. here in Davis California, 90% of fixed gear riders ride brakeless (hillless terrain) but are downed by the anal bike cops that pull them over for not "following" the law. so we are trying to work around the issue~ we're not cheating the law; the law is simply outdated and incorrectly written to not take into consideration that our drivetrain is a viable part of a braking system. just doing that we dont get bothered by the police.

right.

but I dont understand your brake setup. besides the legal skirting, what's the point? you already have a brake lever and caliper mounted - why not mount it in a position like a normal person thats a) easy to reach b) offers better braking c) doesnt look retarded. I think the answer is aesthetics and an attempt to kept your bike "minimal"...but, in my opinion, a brake mounted like yours simply looks stupid and a normal brake setup would look much better not to mention reasons a, b, and c listed above.

what you've done is akin to skirting a mandatory helmet law by attaching a helmet to your arm instead of your head.

so, in conclusion: total fail.

that bearing in hex hole sounds like such a great idea~ does something similar in principle exist for the wheel nuts? any ideas?
gluing bearings into your axles would be a horrible idea.
but yes, a solution exists: a d-lock/cable/locking skewers/quick release(s)