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• #52
Note to self - Must buy more wicker.
I just hope you lot don't get hold of fire again, do they still check you for matches and lighters before you get on the ferry ?
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• #53
btw, tynan, when you showed your seatpost light, the reason i though it might "snappy, snappy" is cause i thought you made it out of a plastic, clear tube
and then simply put in a light inside that shines....<<< surely that would be way easier, no?ive patented plastic tubes used as seatpost, so no one use it!!! :)
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• #54
btw, tynan, when you showed your seatpost light, the reason i though it might "snappy, snappy" is cause i thought you made it out of a plastic, clear tube
and then simply put in a light inside that shines....<<< surely that would be way easier, no?ive patented plastic tubes used as seatpost, so no one use it!!! :)
A clear plastic tube would break pretty quickly, perhaps even instantly when weight is applied - not only is this very unsafe as you would lose control of your bike, but the way plastic fails would guarantee that sharp shards would be left for you to puncture yourself as your support collapses.
I will let you visualise which part of you body gets stabbed with the shards ! :S
You are also unlikely to be able to apply enough torque at the seatpost clamp to stop the plastic (which has a low friction coefficient) from slipping - the post will likely crush first.
And you would also have to work out how to fix the seat clamp assembly to the top of the plastic tube.
This also sounds not only much much harder to do, but very dangerous and in no way robust enough to ride.
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• #55
A clear plastic tube would break pretty quickly, perhaps even instantly when weight is applied - not only is this very unsafe as you would lose control of your bike, but the way plastic fails would guarantee that sharp shards would be left for you to puncture yourself as your support collapses.
I will let you visualise which part of you body gets stabbed with the shards ! :S
You are also unlikely to be able to apply enough torque at the seatpost clamp to stop the plastic (which has a low friction coefficient) from slipping - the post will likely crush first.
And you would also have to work out how to fix the seat clamp assembly to the top of the plastic tube.
This also sounds not only much much harder to do, but very dangerous and in no way robust enough to ride.
fair enough, point taken, but surely you can get seriosly thick plastic (im talking like more than 5mm thick stuff) for this.
It just seems that inserting a light inside the post is the practical way to do it. -
• #56
fair enough, point taken, but surely you can get seriosly thick plastic (im talking like more than 5mm thick stuff) for this.
It just seems that inserting a light inside the post is the practical way to do it.You need to find a plastic tube that is thick enough to support your weight, not crush under the torque required to secure it in the frame with the seat post clamp. You will also have to make sure it is of the right diameter to get into your seat tube, make sure it is hollow and either transparent or at least translucent. I doubt you could find something to meet these specifications exactly, but I suppose you could get something custom made.
It will also need to be stiff enough so that it does not bend when weight applied - not particulaly to prevent a bendy seatpost but to avoid repeated stress to the structure - and it would also have to be pliable (non-brittle) enough to allow a little flex so that repeated application of weight doesn't fatigue the structure of the plastic. Also nicks or scratches in plastic in a stressed situation will likely lead to stress risers (which encourage fissures usually leading to failure).
No one, as far as I know, has ever made a plastic seatpost, even on the very cheapest £49.95 Halford's death traps.
You will also have to work out a way to safely secure the seat clamp assembly to the top of the tube.
I can't see how this is 'way easier' than wrapping some electroluminescent film around the seatpost you already have ?
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• #57
you've been framed.
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• #58
I just hope you lot don't get hold of fire again, do they still check you for matches and lighters before you get on the ferry ?
We have found (washed up on the beach) a box with moving pictures. There is a man on said box going by the name of Lord Ray of Mears, two sticks is all one requires for fire. Neat.
By the way it's not a goat. Loaghtan sheep.
Could you add LEDs to the horns?
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• #61
By the way it's not a goat. Loaghtan sheep.
She's beautiful, is it going to be a church wedding ?
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• #62
We are all pagans - The blood shall flow. ;)
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• #63
I think the solution to quite a few of your ponderings would be fibre optic cable, light, pliable and transfers little amounts of light excellently.
Ok Tynan, you said you used an electroluminescent material but everyone that shows what it is seems to be linking to reflective vinal, so could you kindly link us to what you used.
:P
EDIT: The creative juices are now flowing..... so remember there was something on here about lightening things through drilling small holes in it, how about even smaller ones..... lots of tiny holes and you could simply rip up some old christmas decoration with a lighting system and fibre optic cables and you could make a sparkling seatpost. -
• #64
EDIT: The creative juices are now flowing..... so remember there was something on here about lightening things through drilling small holes in it, how about even smaller ones..... lots of tiny holes and you could simply rip up some old christmas decoration with a lighting system and fibre optic cables and you could make a sparkling seatpost.p
i like it!or just simply have an integrated light in the seatpost, cut out a small window and shove a light inside
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• #65
But with the Fibre optic cables the holes would be much much smaller and reduce the formentioned risk of 'Snappy Snappy'
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• #66
But with the Fibre optic cables the holes would be much much smaller and reduce the formentioned risk of 'Snappy Snappy'
hmmm....you;re probably right
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• #67
Cool ! :)
By the way, that is one massive LED !
60 candela (10mm). which is a bit wide to drill a seatpost methinks. but I am so fucking on this tomorrow morning!
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• #68
I'm guessing the photo emitting sheet is powered from a DC source? A dynamo would certainly suffice...When its not Friday night I'll see if there is a red spectrum around, that would be a nice rear light for sure.
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• #69
Tynan? Question up^^there.
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• #70
Been playing with the soldering iron, got an old lamp to shine again using LED's and those little 9v rectangle batteries
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• #71
Those old lights are bloody massive.
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• #72
I never noticed this thread.
I just built a rear light from these components:
emitter
17 mode driver
hostJust simple soldering job (made difficult by a complete lack of instructions), and I've got a powerful compact red flashlight, with 17 programmable modes for £12. It's so bright I think I'll need to use a diffuser to use it safely on the road.
The only problem is that the pill which you mount the driver and LED to is too small for the emitter base. I took a dremel to the pill to make it fit, but it's a bodge at the moment.
Knog Frogs are the sh!t.