Vintage Peugeot conversion help and tips please

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  • Hello there,
    i finally managed to post a new thread !
    I'm a newbie but I've been on S. Brown website for "months" !!!!
    I'm ready to convert my peugeot (paid 70 quid at the market ) which run pretty well as it is (until this morning when i got a puncture on my "vintage!" tyres) :-)

    I have a question, this frame is kind of heavy but I have no idea of frames weight in this range of performance/price.
    I believe that for the 70 pounds it's what it is, but as advised from another user of the forum with the same bike, the geometry is relaxed and will be a good commuter for London.

    My concern is that a new bike such as fuji track is in the shop for around £300 .
    Is it worth to convert my one and end up to pretty much the similar price (but will probably look sexyer ) ?

    Here is my baby (before the puncture...):

    http://edypiro.com/fixie/fixie.jpg

    i bought this freewheel as a bargain (2£)
    the weird thing about it is the tiny notch to unscrew it, i'm scared of not be able to remove it (!)
    unity 18 teeth freewheel:
    http://edypiro.com/fixie/crank01.jpg

    I'm also afraid of the chain line / allignment

    http://edypiro.com/fixie/fixie2.jpg

    I have a freewheel (not a cassette) .

    i'd like to reuse the chainset (larger chainring 52 teeth) but I;'m not sure about it, I'm just looking for the cheapest solution.

    http://edypiro.com/fixie/chainset.jpg

    I've been advised from another user that it should have a french BB so probably a thredless one will suit it better.

    could you please advise on any solution/product that will go on this model, maybe from someone that already converted his one.
    thanks guys,
    edy

  • can you give us the serial number that you can find underneath the BB? that should tell us if it french or not.

  • A Peugeot make for great conversion, you can easily turn it into a fixed wheel bicycles but without the stiffness and discomfort of one, I did the same before selling it for 200 quid and got a Bianchi Pista instead;

    it is heavy, but once you stripped the bike and add some reasonable weighted compound, it´d be quite light, in fact it was lighter than my new Bianchi Pista.

  • W _ O _ W ! ! !
    that is SICK!
    looks so sexy !!

    my frame number is : Y909 29045

    sorry to ask but how coul;d you have sell it for ONLY 200 ?
    i mean a rapid calculation will do:

    Sugino RD 165 Fixed Wheel Chainset = £60
    threadless bb = £20 (u can tell me this one)
    chain = £10
    total= £90

    • rearwheel with flip flop hub = £70 (minimum...)
      Total= 160 + labour (that i might be able to do....maybe with a little help... :-) )

    plus i paid 70 quid for.
    maybe I've been scammed....

  • On my bike the BB is english threaded, and it´s an 1989 bike (judging by it´s serial number), I sold it for 200 pounds because it´s a reasonable price to sell a fixed wheel conversion, after all it´s not a track frame.

    you hasn´t been scammed, I paid more or less the same price as you did when i got my peugeot, I can´t interperted the serial number but this is what i found -

    http://cyclespeugeot.com/SerialNumbers.html

  • Good ghost bike candidate...

  • well that's why i was going for threadless because i don't kow if its french or not, another user had his one on threadless and said it was going ok.

    can you give me some tips on how and where get parts to stay in the budget of 200£, do oyu think my calculations are right?

    for example i saw here that my chainring stripped to 1 ring and no guard will look pretty nice, but dunno if then is ok to allign the chain etc.
    http://singlespeed2.angelfire.com/02.jpg

    thanks a lot

    platini, what does it mean "ghost bike" ? thanks!

  • I was being snobby and a bit harsh. Ghost bikes are redundant pieces of cycling junk left at the sites of fatal cycling accidents. Sorry!

  • edscoble can you tell me what wheel are you using ?
    my axle spacing is 126 mm and the local bike shop made a big fuzz about using a track flip flop hub because the spacing has to be 126mm.
    I read on S, brown that the fram can be narrowed and is not rocket science, but i do believe that honestly 3mm on each side can be easily gained tightening the axle nuts, NO ?

    Platini,
    ahahah it's funny tho.

    well i'm sure it's gonna take a little bit of time to do this project, for 2 reasons, : I'm not an expert and I'm on a tight budget, but I'm sure I'll make it work ;-)

    what's your"not-ghost" bike ? let us see...

    can you help me out on this project suggesting parts etc?
    thanks

  • I can´t remember but i will dig out my receipt to find out what type and make it is when i get home.

  • Buy this:
    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FIXIE-Bike-parts-Cannondale-FSA-Shimano_W0QQitemZ110292752501QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item110292752501&_trkparms=72%3A1298|39%3A1|66%3A4|65%3A12|240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
    Ends in 22 hours, should get a wheel set that will work, crank set and some better brakes too. Seat post won't be any use but this will get you nearly everything you need for a good price.

  • hey edy, you'll probly mess up your knees riding 52 teeth even with 18 teeth on freewheel. better to change crank (you need/got tools?), also better to use inner ring (42/46ish) for chainline. gonna have to re-dish wheel also, if you dont know how ask/look about on here you'll find the answers. I presume from photo you live in london. if so, try the bike shop in peckham (wilsons) they're very helpful. (he built me a flipflop wheel for £40!?!?!?!?) might have been a one off though.

  • STALLIONLEGS
    is it this one?
    http://www.southwarkcyclists.org.uk/aewilson.htm
    i will surely go ask for a wheel.
    I really want a flip flop to "try" the fixed

    JDB
    thanks I already bet on it ! ahahhahah
    probably 100 quid is a good price, what you think ?
    do you think the shimano BB will fit on mine? THANKS !!!!!

    EDSCOBLE
    i gathered more info from my frame

    there is a sticker
    BS 6102

    and on the seatpost a signature
    something like:
    Jaque M Langli 9 i can't read it...)

    guys thanks a lot for your help (!)

  • edscoble can you tell me what wheel are you using ?
    my axle spacing is 126 mm and the local bike shop made a big fuzz about using a track flip flop hub because the spacing has to be 126mm.
    I read on S, brown that the fram can be narrowed and is not rocket science, but i do believe that honestly 3mm on each side can be easily gained tightening the axle nuts, NO ?
    thanks

    Easy- just tighten it down. My bike is 126mm rear spacing, running on a 120mm track hub and it's fine. You don't really even need to cold-set the frame (what Sheldon Brown mentions) as steel can take it fine.

  • thanks rich,
    the rocket scientist at the cycle shop told that i would haven't be able to fit a 120mm on a 126mm and they where supposed to do "some special work" on the bike...
    i was like WOOOOWWW (sarcastic of course)
    i don' understand why they always want to scam you (!!!)

    I'm already bidding on that parts from cannondale bike, hopefully i can get a bargain, i really want a cheap flip flop to ride fixed but be abe to coast when I'm tired....

    fingers crossed, thanks

  • Easy- just tighten it down. My bike is 126mm rear spacing, running on a 120mm track hub and it's fine. You don't really even need to cold-set the frame (what Sheldon Brown mentions) as steel can take it fine.

    or simply add those extra spacer to make up the space, I did that when my track hub was 120 and the Pug was 126, a couple spacer and bingo was his name-o.

  • Alright, ever since purchasing the bike, what I've changed from the bike is;

    removing everything that's redundant to the bike, the gear, the chain, the levels, etc.

    get a whole new wheel built - this is what I got for the rear wheel;

    Mavic CXP33s rims, about £35.
    unnamed track hub, £30.
    I can't remember the spoke but I got the wheel built, cost me too much since it got built by my local bike shop and they charge me quite a bit (including the spoke) so the overall cost went up to £100.

    thought however, rear wheel do tend to be the most expensive part of the bike, and that all I upgraded, I was running 16-52 fixed wheel for 6 months, hard work but actually got used to it, until the crank gone wonky and best to get a reputable crankset, so along come the Surgino.

    Surgino Messenger 47t crankset - £44. and £20 labour

    I forget about the chain - £10.

    so far £174 altogether, however the rest of the bits are purely cosmetic and personal preference, like the saddle, handlebar tape, brake levels, tyres etc. (and a BB change due to me damaging it), which brought the whole cost to nearly like £280 altogether I spend on it.

    just be sure to get a whole new rear wheel built and a crankset on the front, you can try and search this forum to find which is the cheapest without loosing quality, concentrate on the mechincal part of the bike before buying stuff for your bike like saddle that suited it more (in this case I recommended the Charge Spoon, very comfortable, look expensive, smart and only £20).

  • if you've bid on those cannondale bits you should have yourself a sweet bike, well done. I can't bid on ebay cos I'm too thick to set up an account otherwise I would have bid myself.

  • thanks Ed !! that's really helpful !

    Yes stallion I'm bidding on those parts i will probably have to resell some of the stuff that won't fit on my bike like :

    • seatpost (Cannondale 27.2 "carbon wrapped")
    • brake levers (Tektro)
    • bars (Cannondale C3 31.8 mm)
    • stem (Cannondale 3D forged)

    I will basically keep

    • wheelset (Mach1 510 rims built on Formula Track hubs)
    • crankset (FSA Vero + Shimano bb)
    • brake calipers (Shimano Sora)

    What do you recon the whole lot is worth buying it for? I tried to research online stores for the parts but some are not showing up, I estimated that buying the parts separately new from shop will be something like 250£
    what do you think?

    Thanks everyone for the help.

  • hey edy, you'll probly mess up your knees riding 52 teeth even with 18 teeth on freewheel. better to change crank (you need/got tools?), also better to use inner ring (42/46ish) for chainline. gonna have to re-dish wheel also, if you dont know how ask/look about on here you'll find the answers. I presume from photo you live in london. if so, try the bike shop in peckham (wilsons) they're very helpful. (he built me a flipflop wheel for £40!?!?!?!?) might have been a one off though.

    I ride 52 18 fixed on my old Bianchi, being doing that for 3 months and no knee probs as yet. Makes some hills a bit imossible but generally it's fine. Used my original crank and ring to keep price of conversion down but also it's nice to keep the frame and original parts together were you can. Will probably upgrade to a new smaller crank in reality in the future though.

  • The BB won't work, it will be English threaded, your bike is French threaded. Threadless BB should be £15-20 and you will be laughing, get the shortest spindle length one you can find it will make chain line easier. You will have no problems putting a 120mm track hub into the frame, might need to much around with a spacer or 2 to get the chain line right but thats about it.

  • p!mp, I find you get a good top speed but overall its a bit too much like hard work.
    edy, youve bagged yourself a bargain (nearly) few hours to go. keep your eye on it a few minutes to end of sale to make sure nobody out bids at the last minute. you might find it worth bidding again.

  • yes stallion , even if i read the review and they say the cannondale has a good frame for the money but crap parts. Well i believe the parts will be better than what i have anyway HAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAH

    I will keep an eye surely, what do you think is a good price for the lot?
    I previously post all the makes and models, I'm a newbie and i don't want to pay more than worth it.

    thanks a lot!!!
    hope I will get it a t reasonable price :-)

  • p!mp, I find you get a good top speed but overall its a bit too much like hard work.
    edy, youve bagged yourself a bargain (nearly) few hours to go. keep your eye on it a few minutes to end of sale to make sure nobody out bids at the last minute. you might find it worth bidding again.

    Yeah good top end but takes a bit longer to wind up your speed but I 'm not relly into tearing around. yYou could always fit a 20 tooth at the rear or even a bit more to bring down the gear inches.

  • STALLIONLEGS
    is it this one?
    http://www.southwarkcyclists.org.uk/aewilson.htm
    i will surely go ask for a wheel.

    thats the one. its right near that space age burger king. the bloke in there is helpful, polite & reasonable prices too.
    if you live near I could give you a hand with your bike, I got tools & don't mind helping out. (save you a few squids getting it done in bike shop.)

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Vintage Peugeot conversion help and tips please

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