Chain tension and tensioning a chain

tight - but not so tight that it locks and crunches round the rear sprocket. Try to eliminate as much play as you can while track standing.

tight - but not so tight that it locks and crunches round the rear sprocket. Try to eliminate as much play as you can while track standing.

Thats exactly what I was wanting, thank you very much.

I go for 1/2" vertical play. I find that tends to be tight enough so that I can't feel it through pedals but without binding.

You want about 1/2" play in the chain, grab the top bit and move up/down... might be wise to make it a bit tighter if you've got track shy testers 3/32 chain...

lol
4C.

You want about 1/2" play in the chain, grab the top bit and move up/down... might be wise to make it a bit tighter if you've got track shy testers 3/32 chain...

lol
4C.

Thanks for all the input. The chain tug Iv'e got is probably overkill as its highly unlikely I will be able to dislodge the rear axle from the drop outs with my pedal force!

But its handy to know how much tension I should have in my chain.

Cheers

I've just re-tensioned my chain and it seems to be very rigid and tight, I know it will ease up over the next few weeks riding but just wondering if anyone knows if I risk snapping the chain from it being too taught?
Cheers
Rich

your better off relaxing it a little bit, to just before it grinds, so the wheel/cranks can spin freely when upside down. might last a bit longer

Will the rear wheel spin freely or get caught up and stop within a few seconds? If it sticks then there's too much friction, and it will be harder to pedal. I've had a chain break due to being too tight - but that was really tight and fully forward in the dropout.

Once you go slack, you never go back!

i think i'm gonna get some tugs. hope this helped.

thanks guys, basically I'm as slack as my chain was and I was trying to avoid spending the time getting it tensioned perfectly. Suppose its back to the spanners then.

get a chain tug, your be glad ya did

I tend to leave it slack enough that it flexes if I tap it but tight enough that if I push it sideways it barely moves - at least, nothing like enough for it to ever disengage the chain wheel. Runs much smoother and quieter than when I used to run it taut.

i dont think you will be able to snap a chain by having it too tight in the dropouts, it will just be noisy

you will be able to snap them by having them to tight, trust me, it does not end well

you will be able to snap them by having them to tight, trust me, it does not end well

+1

have your ballsack off, it will.

Bit of GT-85 on it
Lovely

Bit of GT-85 on it
Lovely

. . and some balsamic vinegar.

. . and some balsamic vinegar.

with a raspberry coulis

Just tried the dope method of tensioning rear wheel after tyre change etc, shown off by mikec on the Southend ride last week, whilst changing a tyre under pressure (corny take note, he took about three minutes). Ha, I love a trick. i always hate resetting rear wheels, but this is easy peasy lemon squeezy.

For those that missed it:

Sit on floor, and engage pedals with your feet (those with short legs may not be able to use this method i guess ... no I'm not gonna say anybody's a shorty at this point) whilst pulling/centreing your wheel, do up tracknuts.

i believe the expression is 'brapp!!'

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Yes. It's not a bad method is it.
Are you coming tonight Skullhead?

Could I have some more info? So.. this method only requires doing up the nuts one?
Struggling to picture it. Do you pull back on the wheel with a lot of force, and use the pedals to provide a bit of 'preload' and prevent binding? Or do you actually pedal?

HTFU
Use your hands you fucking girls.. you've got two!

thank you, i changed 2 tyres today (conti contacts) for a mate in the time it took one person to get his old lose tyre off, its called force, love it.