My first fixie, help needed!

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  • I'm hoping you might be able to give me some help/advice...

    It's taken me far too long to get round to going fixed. But I've dug out an old Raleigh Record Sprint to convert to fixed (Original frame, forks, bars, seat post and front brake, and spare set of wheels - Mavic Open Pro on Durace hubs). Unfortunately, and that's where you guys come in, I'm not too up on how I go about it. Not because I can't find instructions, more due to my lack of mechanical experience in general and not having the tools.

    Having made enquires at my local bike shop - Mosquito on Essex Road, they have given me a price as follows (with peddles and saddle to be added):

    Chainset Sugino 59.99
    Bottom Bracket UN54 16.99
    Chain PC7X 15.99
    Rear Hub System EX 28
    Cog/sprocket 12
    Lock ring 10
    Rear Rim Open Pro 35
    Spokes & Labour 35

                                         212.97
    

    I'm sure this is over priced having done some research and ideally I'd like to help with the build so I could do it myself in future. Can anyone help or put me on to someone that can?

    Much appreciated...

    Ed

  • Mosquito aren't the cheapest as you say, but an advantage to a first build is that they will resolve compatibility problems before they occur. Ordering stuff from websites without knowing about the threading of the bottom bracket, space between the rear drops, how to build wheels, etc... well it's very easy to make mistakes on things and find that the online stores won't be too pleased about taking stuff back that isn't faulty.

    The great thing about Mosquito though, is that they're one of those good bike shops. You can ask if it's cool that you watch the build so that you can ask questions, see how things are done. If you do this, then is it so bad that you're paying a little more per item than if had grabbed it online? You won't get to see the wheel-build as they'll do that in their own time, but you'd get to see the rest and it will only take them a couple of hours, in which you'd learn a great deal about the mechanical side.

    Of course, you can order all of this stuff yourself, work hard to ensure that you have no compatibility problems, and then get one or more of us around with tools and bribe us with beer to help build your bike ;) Someone with a truing stand will still need to build the wheels though.

  • That's not really overpriced considering that you are paying for their 'skills and knowledge' aswell. Doing it cheap usually means bad.

  • i would wan't the chainline perfectly dialled, no point in paying a shop for the build only to find the bike would benefit from a longer/shorter bb.
    if you think you wan't to do your own/builds maintainence in the future then maybe price it up +lockring tool, chainwhip and BB-tool from cheaper sources. if it's not much more it may be worth doing.
    plenty of people on here build wheels for beer.

  • New stuff with shop labour is going to be pricey. Thats just it.

    You do have lots of options including:

    1. Find a second hand/pre-built track wheel. Don't have to get Mosquito to build you one esp not for an old beat up frame.
    2. Make friends with folks with tools and get them to teach you. Do some reading on SheldonBrown.com about conversions and work out what you need.
    3. Convert the bike yourself to just a singlespeed for very little money. That way you know you'll like the frame and only having a single gear and then its worth investing time/money into it.

    Speak to Kiwibikes or similar (Brick Lane Bikes) about whether they can do it cheaper with 2nd hand stuff etc.

  • As the others have said, it depends how much time you have to teach yourself how to do it at home (sheldonbrown, parktool etc) and if you want to aquire the necessary tools. A mixture of both is probably best, do what you can and get the shop to do the rest. It's always nice having a LBS help you out, they'll get into the project and you will learn from them.

    I've converted a raleigh record sprint to SS (with track hubs) so if you have any specific questions, whisper me.

  • Cheers, really useful tips.
    I think the shop method might be the best way to get started to make sure it's in full working order. As with most projects I undertake it could take weeks, months or years to pull my finger out enough to get it finished! And I want it done in the next couple of weeks!!
    Having done plenty of research and seen the bike porn out there I'm sure I'll then wish to get building myself in future, hopefully having met up and ridden with some of you lot (and bought enough beers!) to develop my skills and knowledge.
    How do Brick Lane Bikes compare to Mosquito? I notice they have Velocity Deep V's, gold pair might look proper bling with the Record Sprint decals - Anyone know if you can get new gold spokes and chainset?!

  • I'd go easy on the bling as this is London.

    If you want gold wheels, then Velocity made an all gold track wheelset (hubs, spokes etc). They turn up from time to time but are pretty effing rare. Gold spoke are going to be bloody hard to find though and would make the cost of the wheel build explode, even if you could find 'em.

    Can find some japanses crankset in custom editions in gold but are eye wateringly expensive as are the Campy BMX/track cranks in Gold.

    You could DIY with paint (looks bad, won't last) or find an anodiser which is about the way to go. Will add a fair whack to the price esp as you'll need to get the threads chased etc. These were custom anodized for example.

    All in all, gold bling generally looks bad (everyone has theyir own shade of gold which never quite seem to match), is expensive as well as time consuming to find (outside of the custom gruppo that Suzue put out before they went belly up) and is just going to attract all kinds of attention both good and bad.

  • See, first I moan about how much the build is gonna cost then I'm talking about a shed load of bling, and from a Yorkshireman to boot. What would my dad say?! I'll have a cold shower.

    ...that's better. Think I'll stick to understated as it will be parked out in London everyday. The next one can be more pornographic...

    Here's a current pic, the tyres came with those wheels before you say anything! Anyone got a circular saw and workbench for the bars?!

  • Whats a circular saw?

    Just use a cheap hacksaw and you don't need a bench, stand over the front wheel and the bike holds them fine for you :) A file afterwards helps a bit if you want it neat.

    Welcome to the site btw :)

  • Jusyt my bone-idle-ness coming out again! Hacksaw all the way.

  • i love those bikes had two as a kid 18 or so

    i can't remember too well what the frame was like do they flex or are they quite stiff ? i like the aero tubing on them

    look so class in black and gold too

  • I've just been down to Brick Lane Bikes and it would appear that in their expert opinion, because of the rear drops being different lengths (see below), that although it could be converted to fixed, I'd have a hatful of problems with chain tensioning etc. I could go for singlespeed though...

    It's put me off the whole idea to convert if it's not going to be straightforward as I'll be doing at least 100miles per week. Plus, the frame is slightly too big (thankfully I haven't forked any money out yet - it's my dad's old frame and the wheels are spares).

    Any thoughts?

  • What on earth happened to the driveside drop? Looks like part of it has snapped off or something.

    I agree with Brick Lane Bikes, unless you want a single-speed and a slightly ill-fitting frame, change the project ;) Go look for a different frame if you feel you have enough parts for it, or consider an off-the-peg.

    Or... contact Andy at Fixed Gear London and see if he will build you a bike. He's got a waiting list of about 20 bikes right now though, but he builds fantastic bikes.

  • The drive side rear drop out has pleanty on meat behind it. I would be tempted to do some cearful filing. You could file it out to the same depth as the none drive side drop out and have the same amount of metal work supporting it as the non drive side.

  • it does look more hassle than it's worth though.

  • Apparently, that's just how some older bikes were built. They said they had a Peugeot in a while ago with the same thing, hence telling me not to bother rather than have me spend £250 plus to then find out I should have stuck to my old MTB (god no) or go off the peg.

    Pretty gutted as it could have looked quailty. Better get so more of my old crap on Ebay and save up for a whole bike...anyone want a Record Sprint frame??!?!

  • What is the tube set on it? Rear spaing? and 27" or 700cc wheels

  • and size?

  • i filed the dropout on my record sprint and it works a treat. essentially the left drop is campag style and the right more akin to a modern vertical drop (its the same drop just not machined back as much as the left). I suppose the idea being you set the wheel in the right and adjusted with the left.

    if you're happy doing a bit of filing go for it, as it does work. otherwise find another frame maybe.

    And Brick, they're 501 with 120 respacing, 700c which is nice for track hubs :)

    i know of a killer 531 62cm claude butler going but that'd be way too big.

  • Sounds like I may reorect it depends on the size.

  • It's a 54cm, and only very slightly too big. A vertical seatpost (?) so the seat is a bit further forward should sort it if it can be converted, however not with my skills. Fancy a project?

  • Dag nabit too small for me I am more of a 58 - 59 cm man, (just shy of 6' 2")

    Elvis I feel 62 cm would be a wee bit too big (I presume we are on center to top?)

  • yeah, it'd be too big for you. i ride a 60cm and am about 6'1" and it was just too big. you'd crack your balls for sure. shame as it's feather light, all original and the wheels are still straight :O

  • Oh well my bike still roles and I don't really have the room.

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My first fixie, help needed!

Posted by Avatar for Cowburned @Cowburned

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