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• #47027
I like these Hafele ones. Take a bit of accurate measuring but easy enough to do with a drill and gives you the flexibility to move them (although I never have moved any of the various ones I've done with them).
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008I41RBQ?psc=1
Lots of options on the Hafele site
https://www.hafele.co.uk/en/products/furniture-fittings-living-commercial-solutions/connectors-shelf-supports/shelf-brackets-supports/51/?SearchParameter=%26checkbox_fs_facet_supports_brackets_product_type%3DShelf%2BSupports%26%40P.FF.followSearch%3D10000&PageSize=48 -
• #47028
or bookcase strips
Don't necessarily have to be recessed
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• #47030
Years ago we picked up a little g plan wardrobe which wasn't very practical so I added shelves. I made an internal frame out of cheap pine batons and used mdf shelves which are held up by these brass shelf pins.
I didn't do anything fancy just drilled holes to fit the pins.
It's been rock solid.
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• #47031
Ace thanks
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• #47032
These are like the ones I used
Idk if they had the antislide feature, but that design in brass (now tarnished). -
• #47033
on Screwfix & lazer levels, I bought the magnusson £35 green interior one yesterday + £5 for AA batteries, used it today (with an old camera tripod) can't complain. next choice would have been the Stanley one at £80 don't think I would have won much with that
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• #47034
Bought that today too, glad to hear it’s not complete rubbish
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• #47035
The grain on the oakume ply is nice.
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• #47036
Looks great!
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• #47037
That’s a very calming looking space, lovely.
What’s the plan with the ply panel and shelf? Treated/painted?
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• #47038
Thanks. Calm and timeless was the brief.
I had some natural stain but it's not nice on the oakume so I just bought some osmo clear satin.
The top cupboard hides the extractor far, so I need to decide how to put a hole in it (asthetically) I was thinking of using bamboo ratan.@dbr good from far but far from good!
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• #47039
back to the stair stripping....were you worried about lead at all? On George Clark they did a home test that lit up immediately but proceeded to crack on with a heat gun anyway, they just put a mask on. Is it not as bad as it sounds?
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• #47040
Though my quick research suggests something like this is probably a worthy investment
https://www.brewers.co.uk/product/LG151251005 -
• #47041
Probably the most recommended type of product on this thread : )
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• #47042
^^ I get more worried about arsenic green to be honest.. (this is only internet it is a hazard) but the masks would be vapour (gasses) filter A and that point for lead to turn to gas vapour is 500ºc.. other limiting precautions can be added (a fan and air flow)
Edit (I think that temperature is wrong, but then I really wouldn't suggest burning off inside, all the paint situations will be different and may need a variety of techniques)
Things that gave lead a bad name; flake white make-up, water pipes, children's toys. Chances are there is some on your roof that was manually installed. Don't get me wrong I've had a coroner report of a painter read to me it included lead paint and asbestos -
• #47043
You can buy some from Woodblocx?
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• #47044
Woodblocx
These look great. But the cost is probably still a bit too high, especially for an imperfect solution.
I might be being unreasonable on price, but essentially the issue I'm up against is everything I like is way out of my price range. But anything cheaper and viable still has limitations and nudges towards £500 for something I don't like all that much.
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• #47045
Has anyone here actually made anything out of concrete?
Youtubers make it look easy. But I assume it's incredibly time-consuming and easy to fuck up.
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• #47046
I've made a shed base and wall, does that count? It wasn't easy even though the concrete was craned in.
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• #47047
does that count?
Not really.
But;
It wasn't easy even though the concrete was craned in.
probably answers my question.
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• #47048
What we did was put a load of screws in the floor at 30cm intervals and used a laser level to screw them all into the right head height. Then we had a reference point to pour to.
If you set the level on a shelf you could use a line mark on a vertical stick and walk around the room to figure out where the low points are.
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• #47049
You can buy cabinet shelf hole jigs so they are evenly spaced. Or you could create your own jig by drilling holes in a piece of scrap so that even if your holes arent perfectly spaced, at least they are consistently not evenly spaced on both sides
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• #47050
Thanks. I just used a tape measure and laser. It's only a small cupboard so I think it'll be fine.
Building a cupboard for above the toilet. I was going to screw shelves in from sides. But thinking now to use shelf pins, so in effect the height can become modular if needed in the future. I don't own a router or I'd router then in.
I'd love to buy a router but I've blew my tools budget on a sigma tile cutter. So no more tools.
Thoughts? Modular seems wise.