Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Fair dinkum? Weird. Any idea of the supposed benefit of running a ring in a derailing situation which is designed to resist the derailing?

He means that a lot of people fit 1x rings to cranks designed for multiple chainrings. The offset teeth made it easier to reach an efficient chain line.

This^ :)

Aah, that makes way more sense :)

I’m looking to upgrade my mtb rear cassette to a wider ratio, I’m currently running a 1x10 shimano zee shifter and derailleur 11-36. Could someone recommend a derailleur and cassette 11-42. I’d like to keep the zee shifter if possible. Seen a few deals on the deore upgrade 10spd kit but was wondering is the shimano cues system is a major improvement and is the deore derailleur a major downgrade from the zee. Is there an XT 10 speed derailleur with a clutch that would be better suited? Or just go to 11 speed? Thanks for any advice.

I've got an XT RD on an 11s 11-42T cassette on the Surly.

I've got a similar XT RD but 10S on the Tarmac but I've only run 11-36 on that though I do have a Wolf Tooth to try and push it to 10s 11-42T

I've run a lot of Di2 based 11s 11-36, 11-40, 11-42T combos on my ultra bikes.

Before going to Di2 my missus had mechanical 105 long-cage RD with a Sunrace 11-42T cassette

Long cage RD, maybe with a Wolf Tooth will often get you to 42T

@hippy thanks lad, so in theory I could put a wolf tooth on my zee derailleur and get a 42 tooth cassette to work. I’d only have to buy a wolf tooth, new cassette and add a few extra chain links. This would definitely be the cheapest option for me I think.
Edit….scratch that just read the zee fr still has a short cage so unfortunately won’t work. I’m so confused 😂

in theory I could put a wolf tooth on my zee derailleur and get a 42 tooth cassette to work.

Yep. I'd try and borrow one for testing first, rather than buy it. Longer chain, yeah.

You can still expand the range with a short cage RD just likely not enough for a 42T cassette.
You can buy RD cages separately as Shimano spare parts but for the amount of pissing about I tend to buy new deraillers (that's probably why I have so many spare RDs!)

@hippy nice, I think I’m gonna have to just fork out on a new derailleur, there’s a few deals about on a deore 10x1 upgrade kit for around 100€ with chain, cassette, shifter and derailleur. Hopefully deore are still halfway decent. Trying to figure out out what shimano shadow means is that a clutch!?!?

There's a few "Shadow" versions but it generally means they have a longer mount (almost like its own Wolftooth, which is why I've not needed Wolftooth with a lot of my more recent setups). The GX stuff is clutched. I think even one of the Ultegra versions is clutched. I would imagine all the MTB stuff is clutched - my "shadow" XT RDs are.

Do you want me to have a look in my parts bin for a RD? I think I got rid of most of my mechanical deraillers * waves @ @oheyitsd *

I'm pretty sure I've run a zee with a 40t cassette as is and no issues in the past, had to get the chain length and b-screw right but that's something you should do anyway. Cues isn't compatible with the shifter. The deore mechs are ok, the shifters are a little flimsy feeling compared to the zee, but not an issue if you're keeping that. I'd probs swap to 11 speed if you're getting an upgrade kit or just try the cassette if 10 speed first.

Cues isn't compatible with the shifter.

Bizarrely the 11 speed CUES derailleur seemed to work with the normal 11 speed shifter, maybe shimano been telling porkie

Shadow is actually just shimanos name for their slimmer, less sticky out mechs, intended to get hit and damaged less than previous ones.

Shadow + means it has a clutch.

You could just get a M6000 mech, has a clutch and medium cage will clear 42t and they are cheap!

There’s also 10spd chain on that website for 13 quid. Then you just need an 11-42 cassette. You can get all that for less than a £100 and you don’t have to get a new shifter.

Maybe they're all that pull?

Tektro CR720 replacement spring saga concludes. Modified Dia Compe style spring is passable.

Just needed to Dremel off the bit that returns thats meant to hook back and sit under the arm.

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@hippy thanks for the offer (I’m over in Berlin unfortunately) and advice
@snottyotter and @oheyitsd I think the deore 10 speed option is gonna be the way forward, I can use the current cassette and zee derailleur with the deore shifter on another frame to save a bit of money.
I put the bike together trying to spend as little money as possible (taking parts of other bikes etc) but the first few rides made me smile so much that i figured I should invest some cash into it. I’ll most probably put it in the current projects thread as there’s a few problems I’m having trouble getting my head round. Chainline and tire choice (put on bigger tires yesterday but feel no where near as supple as the old ones, hopefully playing with tire pressure will help) are the next as it’s loosing grip and dropping the chain on wet roots etc

Hey,
I'm installing a rigid fork on my XC Mountain bike and the forks come with a 100x15 axle.
It's a DT swiss 240s 6 bolt-boost hub, so i was planning on using these end caps HWGXXX00S4468S
but on a website it says that it's to convert from QR to thru axle, not reduce from Boost to TA. Is it really a problem?

Boost hub will likely be a different shell as the disc mount needs to be in a different position.

You can make a non boost hub boost by adding a spacer, you'd need an inverse spacer to go boost to non boost.

What's the best way to reinforce a tyre that's got some glass through it? Got a puncture the other day and have been riding around with an approx 0.5cm gash perpendicular to the casing threads (tyres are the supple kind so not a lot of those) from a glass shard that feels like it's just waiting to get something else through it.. Will an inner tube patch do or is there something more hardy (toothpaste tube?) that I can stick in there permanently?

Patch or a tyre boot

Love to know the thought process that led to toothpaste tube though

Tyre boot, but that's not really a permanent solution in most cases. Depends on how bad the cut is and what type of tyre boot material was used. I've had Park stick on tyre boots fail after another 300k day and ended up changing to a spare tyre instead.

You can also try glue from the outside. I used to use superglue to fill nicks and stuff in tyres to stop another sharp thing getting in the hole but I'm too lazy for that shit now and I tend to just use more durable tyres in the first place.

Thank you - any recommendations on brands etc? I see restrap do a set for 10 quid but I so rarely need these I'm not sure I need so many.

I just happen to have seen a pound note/toothpaste tube being recommended as a bootleg repair option when on the go/touring before!

Yeah, toothpaste tube in my head would be too rigid with potentially sharp edges.

Most people use stuff like Park stick-on tyre boots, tyre repair patches, crisp packets, AUD$ or now Great Shitain has finally caught up you can probably use plastic GBP too.

With how little our money is worth, it's probably cheaper to use cash instead of buying something