Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

It would become a corrosion hotspot due cappilary action i think

Hot glue. Or whatever glue

Was wondering about that, though I live in a much dryer climate than uk.
Anyway, thanks.

I think I know the answer to this but want to check before making a silly mistake.
I want to replace the shifter on my internally routed mtb. Am I safe to assume that the cable outer will be running all the way through the frame, so all I need to do is take off the old shifter and pull through the old inner cable with it, then put the new inner (with attached new shifter) through the existing outer? It’s a specialised epic evo if that makes a difference. Ta.

And the answer to my own question is…

…yes, it’ll be fine.

Like a saddle clamp, on a safety roll cage or a scaffold pole.

Looks like Halfords only do this in the professional range https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/socket-sets/halfords-advanced-15-piece-hex-bit-set-627742.html

Was cheaper in store I think too. £10.99…

Thanks. I've been away.

Don't stress. I'm going to probably replace the seatpost that I needed it for anyway so it's not an immediate need now.

They're the smaller size though right? I think I was after the larger 3/8th drivers. Anyway, like I said, no immediate need at the moment. Thanks

The drive is half inch so bigger than yours so you would need an adapter.

Let me see what I can find.

After all the shite and time you waste on here, few moments of my time is nothing.

Can you buy just spare pawls for Hope Pro 4 freehubs or do you need to buy the whole new thing if you lose one... asking for a friend...

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/hope-pro-4-freehub-assembly-11spd-steel-hub540/

If you read down the page you can see associated spare parts.

Looks like they do supply pawls as a set of 4 for £13. That's pretty neat.

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/hope-pro-4-pawl-set-of-four-hub535/

Where’s the most cost effective place to obtain 2x m6x40mm t25 bolts, preferably black ones.

I’ve used accu before but shipping is a prohibitive for a few bolts.

@hippy just remember to take a photo before you pull the little leaf springs out and get a cotton bud in the hole . By then you will of forgotten which way they go back in with a blob of grease.

Ask me. Unfortunately I probably don't have those spec but I don't have quite a few other Accu sets of bolts. I always over-order "just in case".

Take a photo of what? The fucking pawl went over a balcony into a carpark we can't get into.

The other three are still in place, so it looks like I'll be buying a new set.

What's that? New wheel time? Oh ok then...

Have a look at:
https://www.orbitalfasteners.co.uk/
If you're not nearby, let me know.
I could get them and pop them in the Post to you.

Am getting extremely sticky shifting on my tandem, both front and rear. Just replaced the gear cables on the rear because I thought that was the issue, but still get an issue where it will shift down (I.e. 12 - 14 - 16) ok but the derailleur will not spring back into higher gears unless I shift twice (I.e. 16 - 12 then back up to 14), what gives? B screw is at max.

Same with front gear - will shift up ok but refuses to shift down and the FD appears to get “stuck” in a higher gear. Pictures attached if helpful. Is WD40 on the hinge/spring areas a stupid thing to do?

5 Attachments

Everything looks pretty worn, and should the B screw be at max?

Agree that bits are worn, but am wondering how that will affect shifting? Basically trying to diagnose if the issue requires me to replace parts. Spring still seems to work when it's at the smallest front chainring and I manually push the derailleur and let it spring back, but then after it shifts up it refuses to come back down.

Think I worded original post a bit stupidly and meant to say that the B screw on the RD was all the way out so it's at minimum* tension.

The cables moving the derailleurs is a small part of shifting, ramps and pins on chainrings and sprockets is a pretty big bit of it so if everything is worn it’ll have a huge impact on shifting.

Ah I see what you are getting at - my issue is more the fact that the derailleur itself is sticky/not moving, though! Hence why I think it's either a cable/derailleur issue.

If it's sticky without a cable attached and moving by hand, it's the mech, if it's only with a cable attached, it's some kind of cable issue. Replace the parts anyway. If you only replaced the inner cables before it's probably the outers, although it's worth checking the mech hanger alignment too.

Which is why I'm finding things odd - it will move by hand and the inners and outers are new. How do I check hanger alignment? And can a sticky mech be cleaned - is the SLX easy to disassemble?

How do I check hanger alignment?

Start by looking at it, should be straight compared to the cassette viewed from the back, you'll need a tool to check it precisely. A bit of lube on the moving bits of the mech is good. Does the cable pull through by hand smoothly if you pretend you're the mech and shift gears?