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• #727
I never used it. I've only used plain paraffin wax, no additives.
I'm not doing race chains, I was doing it to keep everything cleaner.
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• #728
I used the silca wax melter today with one of their strip chips… very good design and piece of cake to use. I normally rotate lubed chains every 300 or so km, are folks doing that with waxed chains or leaving them for longer? Any pointers for cheap quick links, Shimano 12 speed ones being non-reusable is a bit annoying
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• #729
300k? That's not even a ride.
Do they say not to reuse them or are they actually not reusable? Because KMC say not to reuse yet they have proven to be quite reusable.
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• #730
I plunged and spent £20 on a wipperman connex link which you can now get in 12 speed.
Use it as many times as you like and doesn’t require a tool to break or rejoin the chain which I always found a bit fiddly.
I think it’s well worth it for that alone but also to not have a niggle in the back of your mind about whether you should reuse a link.
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• #731
Haha
They say they are not reusable - in the past I've had two quick links break but that was 10 speed Campagnolo so who knows...
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• #732
I reuse YBN until they don’t snap into place anymore. YMMV
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• #733
Me too. Done the same with KMC/SRAM ones too.
Not died yet!
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• #734
Another one using the YBN links on Shimano 12 speed. I tend to get 600 km out of waxed chains depending on conditions. I ride them until they start squeaking. However, if I end up having to ride in the rain I'll always stick it straight in the pot of wax when I get back to avoid it rusting.
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• #735
Nice one. Do you use boiling water first as per the silca videos?
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• #736
I did when I just started out, but not for a long time.
If the chain is wet and dirty after a wet ride I give it a quick wipe with a rag. Just stick it straight in my slow cooker of wax. I have a dedicated cheap one set up in the garage.
About 4 years on and I'm only just about to replace the wax with a fresh 500g. And that's using it across 5 bikes.
I've personally been really impressed with waxing for someone in my position (house with garage rather than flat, doesn't ride a crazy mileage per week, generally doesn't ride in poor weather). I'd recommend for anyone in a similar position.
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• #737
Interesting. I ride approx 300km a week and am in Cornwall so a lot of that is in really crap weather though I ride with full guards when the weather is bad. I've got one of the silca wax melting systems which seems to make it a doddle, especially not having a garage to do it in, but I'm trying to figure out best approaches as I often ride 30km to my studio and then can be there for ~8 hours before riding the 30km home again. I saw silca recommend microfibre towels so I was going to get some of them and store a bunch at home and a bunch at the studio.
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• #738
Yes, definitely wipe down your chain when you arrive and it'll get rid of most of the water. Microfibre is good, but so is just an old towel or waffle weave cloth if you have any of them lying around.
Is the studio heated, and can you bring your bike inside? If so, I think that would probably be absolutely fine along with wiping the chain to make sure the chain doesn't start rusting.
For me it's just that the bike stays in an unheated and uninsulated garage, so even if I wipe the chain there will still be water that will start rusting it. In my previous place we had a downstairs utility room with an outside door, so sometimes after a ride in the wet I'd wipe the chain and then bring the bike inside for a few hours. When I did that the chain never started rusting.
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• #739
I haven't managed any extra longevity from my waxed chains yet. 3 chains now show 5% stretch after around 2500km. Bike is kept indoors and I wax after less than 400km or top up with liquid wax after wet rides. The majority of this year has been dry.
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• #740
Not really heated no, but perhaps a little in the depths of winter.
Thanks for the insights, I’m going to see how it goes. Just had my first absolutely drenching so far
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• #741
What chain wear tool are you using? I’ve often found them to be useless, especially when it’s come to SRAM.
Even if you’ve not noticed improved chain wear, hopefully the drivetrain components aren’t as dirty/worn
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• #742
I used a basic tool before but now got a Pedros one with 2 engagement points that I will use on the next chain. They were all YNB 11 speed chains.
Yes I am sticking with it just for cleanliness. -
• #743
Looking for some assurance before I take the plunge on this. I've been trying to keep the loaner as clean as possible while waiting for the almost with me and heralded "new bike".
Admittedly I am using cheap shitty chain oil I found in my toolbox - but even with meticulous cleaning after a few rides or rain and it just goes to mess very quickly. Given how expensive 12spd is my aims with waxing are:
- try and stop gunk accumulation
- help drivetrain last longer
My plan is to white spirit & meths the chain clean, use paraffin and a cheap wax melter to get the chain started, then top up with squirt chain lube as needed.
2 questions:
- any good sources for paraffin wax people have had @hippy anything good recs?
- how do people handle cleaning the bike when waxed? I usually give the frame chain etc a wipe down after a ride then if it's been gravel or SFAB a full clean and degrease. What have people found good with wax?
- try and stop gunk accumulation
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• #744
My missus got a block from a local shop before but can't remember which one. Probably some kind of craft shop.
The last lot I got was from ebay. Search for Kerawax.
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• #745
Wax wise, hobby craft see if your local store has stock. https://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/house-of-crafts-paraffin-pillar-wax-1kg/6710921000.html
https://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/house-of-crafts-paraffin-container-wax-1kg/6710911000.html
Note that there is a £2 click and collect fee so buy 2 for the £10 minimum free click and collect.I made mine from tea lights so I'm going to use that, even tho the tea lights maybe soya or vegetable wax instead of paraffin.
Have two used single speed inzuma chains to clean and then re lube and fit to a bike....
Wonder what the vegetable, soy and paraffin wax stuff will do.
Oh I use a rice cooker
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• #746
Personally I use molten speed wax and still find it good value. I've not tried doing my own wax blend but I see no reason that wouldn't work great and be a decent bit cheaper. I don't use liquid was chain lubes to top up. When it needs waxing I just whack the chain off and pop it in my dedicated slow cooker.
The cost savings I've noticed the most is changing chains and cassettes far less regularly.
On cleaning the bike I will only touch the chain post-ride if the chain ends the ride wet. If so I'll dry it with a cloth. If it's anywhere near needing a new wax I'll just take it off and stick it in the pot.
I have a few chains always on rotation, so I always have the next one ready to go if needed.
I no longer commute on my bike, though. If I did I'd probably feel different about chain waxing and riding in the wet. These days I'm mainly a terrible fair weather cyclist.
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• #747
If this is the initial switch to a waxed chain, make sure the cassette, chainring, jockey wheels etc are also completely degreased before you put the first waxed chain on or it will all be a waste of time. Worth spending time on - you won’t need to do it again.
Best to have more than one chain, with a freshly waxed one to swap in. After a prolonged wet ride, the wax is going to be washed off and it’s time to swap the chain and re-do the first one.
The rest of the bike? Depends on the crud level, you might not need to bother at all, but if it’s been serious SFAB then you are going to be swapping the chain anyway so you can just clean the rest of the bike normally if needed. With a waxed chain, there won't be any degreasing needed from here on out. In fact you’d want to avoid any risk of residual degreaser or solvent on the cassette etc.
I have found “top up” drip waxes to be a waste of time, for me freshly waxed chain with nothing further until the chain needs swapped. Drip wax top ups could be useful for longer audaxes or other situations where you aren’t going to be in a position to swap chains.
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• #748
Except top up waxes need a lot of time to let the solvents evaporate. I think Zero Friction basically recommended topping up with a wet lube and thoroughly degreasing on when possible.
I use waxed chains on my recreational bikes, where it is possible/sensible to remove the chain when I get back, and just use wet lube on my dad bike which gets ridding and put away wet
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• #749
Plain paraffin available here plus others, depending on how tarty you want to get with PTFE etc https://hagenautomation.com/products/pro-chain-wax
My anecdata with waxing - I've not noticed any less performance post-rain (currently using up a bag of SILCA Secret Chain Blend), but then again I do have full length guards/flaps. What I have noticed is far greater lifespan of cassettes, chainrings and jockey wheels. There just isn't the grinding paste you get with wet lubes - 30 seconds with a hairdryer and my chainring just looks new!
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• #750
This is tremendously useful - god I love this forum. What are people using for melting? Electric jobby with a thermometer, slow cooker?
Very useful tips on cleaning as well, I try and make a thing of washing the bike and chuck on some music so chain re-waxing the chain each proper wash (few 100km) isn’t a huge deal.
What’s the deal with cleaning the chain before re-waxing?
Fretting enough about this god help me when I find myself I the tubeless thread
You’re not using PTFE anymore right? Notice any difference?