Analog film photography and cameras

Kodak Portra 800 (SMC Pentax 30mm)

Anyone interested in Pentax 6x7, TTL prism & 105mm 2.4 lens?
Would like to avoid eBay headache

Kodak Portra 800 (SMC Pentax 30mm)

Anyone interested in Pentax 6x7, TTL prism & 105mm 2.4 lens?

I'll take it if you'll walk beside me and carry the thing for me! 🙂

..just in case you Londoners were wondering, where the remaning stock ("Restposten") of your finest garments is ending up - it's right there, in Berlin Kreuzberg! 🙂

Kodak Portra 800 (SMC Pentax 30mm)

great shot!

Kodak Portra 800 (SMC Pentax 30mm)

cheers man ✌️

Anyone with some Mamiya RZ67 experience.

The camera won't fire the the switch at the top right hand side of the body is set in the middle. It's as if it doesnt cock fully but fires ok on M and you can recock the shutter fine.

Any hints, having a look at the instructions and from what im reading the body is fucked if its not fire at that point. Im guessing no film in it doesnt matter or I dont think it shouldn't anyway.

Kodak Gold 200 (35mm f/2 AF Nikkor)

Harman Makes Largest Investment in Film Manufacturing Since the 1990s

🙂

Kodak Alaris Announces Acquisition by Kingswood Capital Management

🫤

Kodak Gold 200 (35mm f/2 AF Nikkor)

the switch at the top right hand side of the body is set in the middle

Any hints, having a look at the instructions and from what im reading the body is fucked if its not fire at that point. Im guessing no film in it doesnt matter or I dont think it shouldn't anyway.

..sorry, it's been a few years since I last used an RZ, but looking at the manual -

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Kodak Gold 200 (35mm f/2 AF Nikkor)

It doesnt seem to fire when the camera is in that position, it will fire when I move it to M but not in the |. That's why I though maybe I needed film in it to have the counter working with it and cocking it.

It should fire without film in if back is attached and dark slide removed, otherwise with no back it should fire in multi exposure mode?

Only problem I’ve ever had with the RZ was accidentally firing the shutter when lens is removed, or something along those lines where the body is cocked but lens isn’t or vice versa

Kinda reminded me of that Arctic Monkeys cover, haha

Kodak Gold 200 (35mm f/2 AF Nikkor)

Yeah it won't cock on that part but will cock and lock the mirror on M.

I think the body might be fucked. Need to hunt another body if that's the case.

Some Ektachrome from Goodwood, it's tricky stuff huh

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Having signed up for updates, I just received an email about the new Rollei 35AF. Pre-orders on 10th September and it will cost $799. It’s not for me, but interesting to see new cameras come to market.

I’m actually more interested in the midnight camera repair barnack project which looks super. Though I really don’t need to buy more cameras/lenses.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWz7A2e05Xc

Glad to see he got hold of one - he seemed pissed that Pentax hadn’t sent him a 17!

Make sure there is an empty spool in the take up area, turns the silver cog around and also by pushing it down causes the film counter to go from S >>>>> 1 once you've closed back again and started winding it. Sometimes you can trick it if you don't have any spare spools with a small piece of plastic and some low tack tape.

RZ's are pretty damn solid, all metal construction in the film transport and cocking mechanism side. Most likely its because of above OR on of the pins that indicates mechanically to the mechanism that.... lens is fitted, back is fitted, dark slide out, film is loaded, counter is off S position etc has got a bit bent or jammed with a tiny piece of film backing paper or dried up grease.

Yashica 24 TLR - Delta 100 - Zeche D + Inverkip PS + Zeche E

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Weird growth pattern for fungus. Might be balsam separate if its more than one piece of glass in there. Most prism's are pretty easy to take apart and that RZ won't be that old so screws likely not sweat rusted in there. Get yourself some 10% ammonia and some hydrogen peroxide (10-30% absolute max). 25:25:50 (A + H + distilled water).
Eye, skin, face protection it up and let it soak for a few minutes the individual piece of glass thats affected. Should bubble away gently. That will have modern coatings on it so no risk of them going soft IME. Better to leave it to soak and very gently swab away at the fungus with the fanciest cotton buds you can find, rather than less time and scrape.

Once clear, just distilled water to clean and dilute the chemicals off it, dry, then alcohol wash it, then glass cleaner and get it looking sexy, then put back together.
Been through dozens of point and shoots (now that they are worth money and not bin fodder like they were before), various lens and various viewfinders and rangefinders that have fungal growth and got just about all of them sorted out. A few were slightly too far gone, but still produce usable photos, and at least won't get worse now.

I used to be quite blaze with leaving fungus as opening lenses and viewfinders used to worry me a bit, but have lost so many decent bits of gear to fungus, or bought stuff which has had much worse fungus than they say etc, that now I check, open and clean basically all my glass within 12-24 month period without fail, all of it.

UK is a super wet musty climate and kills cameras, currently in Vietnam but was in a few other humid countries over past 12 years and they have all massively taken their toll on my gear. In Vietnam absolutely everyone has drying cabinets, either just sealed and you whack in a big desiccant sack every few weeks with a humidity alarm on it, or actively dehumidified units from Chinese and Taiwanese suppliers, otherwise it will go mouldy inside or out within a very short space of time.